Trunk refinish process
 

I’m not happy with the my recent trunk refinish. So while at MCACN, I asked a pro resto vendor what he used. Hot Rod Black with the correct GM black aqua spatter, not rattle can. Mine is light gray base, glossy and the spatter isn’t visible. So he’s fixing it. He should know better.

Some people add satin clear on top.

What’s your process that looks closest to factory?

Zolotone spatter paint with hardener added as cited on the label.

Trunk refinish process
 

My research indicates Zolotone is the same as the Correct GM spatter sold by some vendors just relabeled. Part no. is the same. That’s what I have. You need to apply a base coat first.


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Not playing semantics here, but I want to clarify something. "Base coat" should not be taken literally, i.e. any base coat color. Base coat colors are not moisture resistant. Ground coat may be more accurate. Because the various trunk finishes are suspended in a clear binder and offer terrible coverage, you should spray a "ground" coat in advance that is like a color within the colors of your splatter paint. At my shop we use a coat of epoxy primer (moisture resistant) a few days prior to trunk color. If the trunk splatter contains blue and black, we shoot black epoxy. This gives a background that requires less material to hide. If your final color includes gray, use a gray ground coat of epoxy primer. Doing so gives the illusion of even coverage and will reduce the amount of trunk splatter needed by half or more.
I personally prefer to re-coat the splatter with a flattened urethane clear after at least one week of dry time. A small fan directed at it and set on low will aid in drying. The clear adds durability and prevents color transfer to your spare tire or jack that might be fastened tight against the trunk floor. When using a water based product this is even more crucial. A minor tail light or trunk seal leak can loosen water based products later down the road if not sealed with a clear coat.

Zolotone is water base and not water proof. They offer a hardener to make it waterproof saving extra time. I wish they mentioned that when I bought it.

Well put. In my case a gray bedliner product was laid down to cover the pan. Can’t recall the product name. Anyway the texture is not smooth. The black/aqua spatter was shot right on top of that. It’s invisible to me...wrong ground coat. Too bright and shiny.
I think I can put down the flat black enamel over what’s there and re shoot the spatter and then a flattened clear.

Most of the trunk will be covered by a mat and side panels. Just exposed wheel wells and spare tire area.




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I personally prefer to re-coat the splatter with a flattened urethane clear after at least one week of dry time.

How does the adhesion take place in this situation? Usually one would have to scuff to get a mechanical bond if not spraying clear within a window of time for chemical bond.

As long as the trunk surface stays completely dust free, you'll have no adhesion problems. That means no sanding on the car during the cure time. Mask off any exposed panels (including interior) to prevent collateral over spray damage and lay down 2 coats of flat clear urethane.

In the past I have just epoxy primed the trunk area and shot rattle can spatter paint on top with great results. Granted not looking for or doing a high end restore.

Current car just finished painting the interior/trunk with base coat clear coat. From factory mine had body color under the spatter. So my plan is to scuff the clear coat and apply spatter on top. Good tip on applying a base color instead of trying to cover all the area with spatter paint. I do have a pint of hot rod black, and Ill pick up some flat clear to cover the spatter—also a good tip.

Thanks for the info.

I did my car with spray bomb spatter paint from Ames (or maybe eastwood?), I had red oxide put down first, then I used the aqua trunk paint. I did use about 3 cans if I recall correctly. Then I topped it with a satin clear coat. The finish matched the colour of what was originally there. It has been there for 5 or 6 years now with no problems but I do have a mat, and no spare tire. Although this paint was not cheap, I suspect its much cheaper than a specialty product that needs an air gun and it was easy to do. I too do not have a 'concours' resto and enjoy driving my car so it does the job just fine.

You got some Canadien in you ?

I wondered the same thing. "Colour"?

My brother lives there eh! Does that count? LOL
For some dumb reason I started spelling it that way when I was about 6 yrs old. 50 year old habit thats hard to break.

Here you go, just finished on a customers 1970 Buick GS Stage 1 paint code 48 Sherwood Green or Pepper Green in Pontiac

That looks good..

I used Zolotone on my last project 5 years ago and Zolotone was readily available right from the manufacturer at the time. Since then Zolotone has been bought by Valspar which is owned by Sherwin Williams and this paint is no longer available
Zolotone was also petroleum based and not water based as previous stated
It dried rock hard and was exactly what the factory used

I've used Parts Place trunk coating in most cases, and it is water based. I've used Zolotone once, and you are correct that it is a solvent or oil based product. Very messy to clean up, too!

Trunk spatter
 

I used the Parts Place trunk spatter on my Firebird this last summer. It is relabeled solvent based Zolatone. They even use the Zolatone part number changing the prefix from ZT to PP.
I was very pleased with the results, looks great. No need to clear. Sure, you can if you’d like but it’s easier to “touch up” if you just leave it alone.
I only used half a qt, sprayed over black epoxy.

How long did you wait after spraying the epoxy to apply the spatter paint?


What brand of epoxy did you use?

I did it the next day. My recoat window was 30 minutes to seven days without scuffing.
I used SW Genesis. Just follow your epoxy recoat recommendations.

10 4 thanks.

This is a timely thread as I'm spraying Zolatone tomorrow.

I sprayed some black SPI epoxy last night and plan to spray the black/aqua Zolatone tomorrow night (2 day recoat). SPI primer has a 7 day recoat so should be good.

I hope it hides well! I only have the one quart and can't get more up here until spring.

Where did you buy the Zolatone. And how long ago?
I was told by numerous sources it’s no longer made

Believe it or not, I bought it from Ames back in 2014...they no longer carry it.

I was worried that it would have gone bad but just finished spraying it and it looks very good, I am quite pleased.

The can had a Zolatone label and part # was ZT-20-TS02 which is black/aqua. As others have mentioned, Parts Place seems to sell the same product under their own brand as PP-20-TS02.

Even though my can was almost 6 years old, I gently stirred it according to the instructions (very important, follow them!) and did not seem to have any chunks after I mixed for 5 minutes.

I used a Vapor HVLP gravity fed gun with 2.3mm tip at 60 PSI for the sheer coat. I had a few issues with it clogging but that cleared up after a while.

I then opened the spray valve and lowered the pressure to 30 PSI and sprayed the pattern coat.

It was a good idea to spray black epoxy first, it really helped the Zolatone hide well.

I used almost a full quart, I have maybe 3 tablespoons left over and what I used was enough to do the trunk, back of the back seat frame, quarters/wheel wells, and 3 sides of a 16"x16" subwoofer box I built.

I am sure that a quart is enough for an A body trunk provided you spray a black epoxy under it first.

It is very difficult to capture how dark it is, my camera makes it look gray but it is definitely black.

As mentioned, it is relabeled and sold by TPPhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cbe278657d.jpg

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Zolatone trunk spatter update
 

This thread has me digging deeper in the availability of Zolatone. I work for Sherwin Williams Automotive and thought it would be easy to get it since the Valspar acquisition. It was not and at the time I just bought The Parts Place relable.
An associate did find the right Zolatone rep and has the needed info to order it. We need to order case quantity which is six qts.

If there is enough interest in any one color, I can have a case ordered and give those interested the contact info to order it by the qt.
If anyone would like to order a case, I can give you the closest SW Automotive branch to order direct. Just PM me with your zip code and I will get you that contact info.

The three color choices are;

ZT-20-TS01 Gray/Black
ZT-20-TS02 Black/Aqua
ZT-20-TS03 Gray/White

For more info the website is;
https://www.quest-ip.com/trusted-brands/zolatone/

Click on Zolatone MSDS for technical data

Terry

Terry, that is awesome. Last year I was trying my best to locate some Black/Aqua and kept being told it was obsolete and not available. If my Raleigh branch can't get me a case, I'll be in touch.
Thanks, Steve

Steve,
Your branch may have some trouble finding it also. I can talk to them directly if they balk at it. One of our best tech rep/trainers is from your area, Manny Brooks. Definitely a quality guy. He would Know the Raleigh branch personnel and help us out too.
Terry

I think we are all over thinking this .
If it’s still available by the case only then I suspect this exactly how Parts Place now has thus correct paint.
I just bought a quart from them and it’s the exact same paint as the Zolatone. It now comes in a metal quart can and not the plastic quart jug like they were selling years ago
The product in the plastic quart jug was water based and not very good as needed a clear coat
The product in the metal quart can is petroleum based and drys hard as nails
I suspect Parts Place is buying cases and relabel them.
Why by a whole case when you can just buy a quart and it’s more then enough.

If I was doing just 1 car I would buy it by the quart.

Has anyone been able to duplicate the spatter technique used at Lordstown, Van Nuys and perhaps a few other plants?
From what I've read, Fisher Body applied spatter in 2 processes:
- Base (dark grey)
- Aqua Fleck

Not sure what type of paint was used for base and fleck but most say it was thick and shot from a pressure pot gun with large orifice nozzle.
Most all of the currently available spatter paint produces tiny little dots and not the stringy/cob-web effect.

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