Inline Tube Exhaust
 

Just sprung for an Inline Tube exhaust system ... manual trans, standard logs ... I have an auto, just didn't care for the dead head tubes.

Anyway, will be a couple of weeks since it's not in stock ... I'm sure they have someone else making the systems for them.

I'll post the results when it gets here and I start working on it.

Hate doing business with them, don't like the way they portray their products as "NOS", don't care for the smarmy feeling they give me. But they are about the only game in town for a stock style full system that doesn't cost a fortune. They also appear to have mandrel bends ... which I prefer over the absolutely correct high dollar pinch bent systems.

I know the feeling. I ordered IT exhaust through Amazon. When it arrived there were a few boxes that had shipping holes. I photographed every defect and opened the boxes from the end so if needed I could ship them back. But I must say everything was in perfect shape with no damage what so ever.
But I still had doubts.

In short, the install went well, everything lined up, and I was pretty happy how it all went.
It's not too terribly hard to install especially when working with the frame off. Since its all slip fit and clamped, you need jack stands, rubber bungie cords, and patience as the pipes have a tendency to rotate as you're trying to snug up the clamps. I worked from the back forward using the assembly manual as a guide for clearances. Brackets aren't labeled left or right, just pay attention to the small details and reference the assembly manual often. (I photocopied the pages and kept them handy). You may want to use sealant paste for the joints.

When I dropped the body on the frame I discovered the tail pipes were too high and were hitting the rear bumper. I checked the clamps/brackets against the originals and found that the rear tailpipe brackets needed to be tweaked at an angle to lower the pipes. (see photos) Beyond that, the installation went well.

Nice looking pipes ... hope mine turn out so nice.

I bought an exhaust system from Waldron Exhaust for my 69 GTO last year and price and quality were amazing. I have a Gardner Exhaust system on my other 69 GTO and there isn't much difference between the two systems. Except the price, of course.

They make some nice looking pipes. Very reasonable price for the steel.

I wonder who is making them for Inline Tube. The prices on the Waldron site are very close to Inline Tube when the hangers and such are added. And with the lead time Inline mentioned .... I suppose Waldron could be their manufacturer. They are both in MI ... only about 100 miles apart.

Just curious, are those systems stainless?

Exhaust isn't ever something I've been inclined to go stock with because of all the options out there, but I've always wondered what a stock '68 automatic with resonators sounded like.

Purchased from in-line a complete exhaust. Tried to install in a 67 GTO and it did not fit right at all. I had the car on my lift. Called them and tried to return and they would not take it back. Had to take the pipes to a muffler shop and had them correct the bends to make it fit. I will never buy a exhaust from them again.

Verdoro ... Waldron appears to make both, SS was about $900 bare ... figure probably $1100 to your door with the hangers, clamps and such. Steel system about $600 with everything you need.

I'm pretty limited because I'm using the original stock manifolds. I've "ported" the exit of the manifolds a bit, they can be opened up about 1/8", matched the inlets, and these "stock" systems use mandrel bends instead of the horrible pinch bends of an OEM system. So I figure they are a bit better than original performance. Engine is pretty much all stock anyway.

428, I've heard that Inline can be problematic with their exhaust returns ... again I bet this is because they don't make them in-house so their margin is very low. I'll definitely post how mine fit.

OG68 ... did your IT pipes come full length? With the long head pipe all one piece? I noticed some places sell them either OEM full length, or cut to save shipping expense.

I didn't see that option on the IT pipes I ordered. Shipping was $60 from MI to NY ... not a real long way so hopefully they are full length.

Yes to both questions.
Something that surprised me and I don't see much written about it, was that the head pipes were flattened slightly under the crossmember. From what I understand this was "factory". The first photo shows that.

Are those SS or did you paint them with something?

No to both questions. Those were the standard offering (galvanized?)

Quiet, very quiet

They look great for Aluminized steel. I'm sorta/kinda thinking about hitting them from the mufflers back with some kind of heat resistant silver ... not sure if it's necessary or not.

Those pipes look pretty much the same as my Gardner system. I bought mine 15 years ago & I know they have improved the clamps, hangers & few other little things. How much of a price difference are they today? I will say I was very happy with how it fit, but it was a little spendy.

I think they are now offering the head pipes in black. I had heard that there was evidence the that those pipes were not silver from aluminizing or galvanizing. Just reguritating what I recall from something I read a while back.
Its interesting how these cars are over 50 years old now & we are still learning things about them. ;)


I like the sound of it, I have a camshaft that has just a bit more overlap than the 068, so it has a little lope with the idle set low.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...55#post5696155

If I read this right the general consensus was that black head pipes were a service replacement part and not factory installed.

ragtop .... my set from IL was $685 to my door. The Gardner system I looked at was over $1000 I think for steel.

I've got the IL exhaust system for my 4-speed 68. I bought it during the Black Friday sale a couple years back. The money I saved paid for the shipping.
Now you can by some IL parts through Amazon and save on the shipping, of course they price this in to the final price on some/most items.

It's a decent system. I had minor issues with it fitting and had to trim the DS down pipe at the muffler to get everything to fit and line up properly. I reused as much of the stock hardware, clamps and hangers that I could for the system. I think I only had to purchase the rear clamps for the tailpipes behind the wheels, but still used the original hangers. The same ones OG68 had to in post #2. Much different from the cobble system I had on previously, but no where near as loud and deep as before (flowmaster 40 series mufflers).

That sounds about right. I think I paid around $800? 15 years ago?
At that time tho nobody else was making anything like the originals.

I purchased a IT exhaust system for my 68. It does not line up at all. The rear tail pipes over the axles are bent incorrectly and they will not do anything about it. Very rude and terrible customer service from them.

Mike .... can you tell me when you ordered the system? Just wondering which direction their quality might be changing.

I'm pretty sure they don't make the systems themselves .... I wonder if they use more than one supplier.

The mufflers in the Inline Tube system are made in Canada and sound awesome!

System came in today. Looks good so far. Very nice bends, much better (or at least less distorted) than OEM. Nice finish on the pipes, hardware kit looks good. No dents, scratches etc.

Will spend the next week seeing how they fit.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...2&d=1583440716

I have questions and I have pictures :)

1. Longest muffler goes on the right?

2. Should Inline have sent me SIX 2.25" clamps? I only got FOUR. 2 at the front of the muffler, 2 at the rear of the muffler, two at the tail pipe. I did get 2 tail pipe extension clamps it appears ... the slip of paper shows them used to hold on the chrome extensions. Don't really look heavy duty enough to be the main tail pipe clamp .... but the Assembly manual does show a similar looking hanger/clamp used on the tail pipe.
(update: I think I answered this one ... evidently the tail pipe clamps and extension tip clamps are the same thing with different coatings, so I do have enough clamps, just have 2 of them in the wrong place).

3. I came across some stripped hanger holes ... used some SS 5/16" hardware instead of the OEM tapping screws. On the hangers out back ... can you reach the inside of the frame rail after the fuel tank is installed? If so great, I can use my hardware, if not, I'll have to come up with a different solution ... perhaps a rivet nut.

4. Should I use sealant on the joints? If so, any suggestions?

5. Look at the photo showing the Left side muffler hanger ... I had the brake line clamp in that screw hole ..... where should that brake line clamp go instead? The small hole above the muffler hanger bolt? The small hole over in the corner close to the frame? (OG68 I see you routed the line above the hanger hole and clamped the brake line at the small hole in the corner.)

Could you folks take a look at the photos and see if anything is really off base? Of course everything still needs adjustment, I only have the tail pipes installed. Are the tail pipes inserted into the muffler hanger about the right distance?

Thank you.


http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...7&d=1583742966


http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...8&d=1583742978


http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...9&d=1583742985


http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...0&d=1583742989


http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1583742993

Item 1: Short muffler pass side
Item 2. Take a look at the tail pipe clamp photo. Only one large sheetmetal screw clamp.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...0&d=1583769675

Item 5: Before and after photos of brake line clip and location

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...6&d=1583769088


https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...8&d=1583769152

If you closely look at the assembly manual specs it gives the dimensions of how far the muffler goes into the tailpipe. The originals had a small dimple as a guide

Have lots of photos IRT the exhaust installation. Nothing has been tightened down yet. Waiting for the engine install.

Excellent, thank you .... I've got the wrong clip on the brake line, and in the wrong location.

Looks like they sent me the wrong clamp for the tail pipe ... same clamp but wrong coating, should be phosphate like yours. I'll use what they sent and deal with that later.

Will correct these issues today, thanks again.

PS. Why do they use two different size mufflers?

I've got about an inch ... maybe 1.25" clearance from the pipes to the drive shaft on either side ... normal? Doesn't appear they would ever contact each other in normal use.

Do auto trans cars also have two different sized mufflers arranged the same?

I'm installing a manual trans system on my auto trans GTO since I didn't want the resonator pipes .... so far I don't see any problem ... but there are other small differences between the two.

So far the closest interference I'm seeing is between the left side muffler and the manual trans suspension brace .... won't know exactly how bad till the day the body is down and I adjust the tail pipes .... but right now it's about 3/4".

And ... what are these four bolts that came with the kit for? Pipes to manifolds?

From Brad Yost 6/21/2012

Upon doing a little searching on the internet about exhaust drone I found 2 things that people are praising to stop it. One of the things Pontiac did on the production line and I could never figure out why one muffler was longer than the other on dual exhaust Pontiacs and now I seem to have stumbled upon the answer.

If the right and the left sides are different the sine waves don't amplify as they are not the same frequency, so Pontiac engineer in their wisdom made the mufflers different lengths and sizes so the sound waves didn't mirror each other. It also seems that X pipes make this phenomenon worse, just switching one muffler may cancel out the drone.


__________________
Brad Yost
1973 T/A 4 SALE (SOLD)
2005 GTO
1984 Grand Prix




I've noticed that IT sells two different finishes for the rear exhaust pipe hanger clamp.

I had five bolts for my exhaust manifold clamps, but then again I'm using RA manifolds. So my guess is the same as yours in regards to the four bolts..

Thank you, you are a wealth of exhaust knowledge :)

I have an older gardner system on my car. I think one of the things that changed over the years is the clamps & the hangers. I think the originals had a hump in them between the threads on the u-bolt. I think I saved pictures somewhere. Mine are flat & my tailpipe hanger clamps are silver. Not correct, but how they were made 16 years ago :) I used a clear silicone that came with the kit & only tightened the muffler clamps until things snugged together. Just incase I have to ever take it apart again for some reason. I can take some pictures of how close the head pipe are to the drive shaft. I think you will gain room though once your suspension is compressed?

I am thinking catalytic converter..... :D :D jk

Just took a peek & I actually have a lot of room next to the driveshaft, but only about 1-1/4" from the floor brace. Looks like my pipes cold have been closer to the driveshaft for a little better fitment? Not sure. I can take some pictures tonight. But, again mine is a 16 year old Gardner & they might have changed them some. Kind of funny how even now there are "correct original" things changing on these cars that are over 50 years old.

I know when I paid up for that system it was supposed to have been made from either the original cards, or original pipes. Really don't recall, but Gardner was the only player for something replicating the orignal stuff back then.

Aw shucks...

My problem is that sometimes my memories of how the car was 50 years ago don't always jive with the facts. :o
Somethings I have photographic evidence of which help.

For the last 10 years of my previous job before I retired, I was the rail vehicle project manager for a transit company. I wrote contract bid specs for vehicle overhauls and modifications as well as maintenance procedures for our mechanics. I also directed the restoration of two 1946 vintage rail cars. To do all this I did a lot of research especially for the two vintage cars.
A major requirement of my job was attention to detail which help in restoring my 68. If I can help others with the information I dig up that's great.

There's a lot I don't know and people like Brad Yost, Peter Serio, and others plus the group of 68 owners add to my knowledge. I must have 40 subscribed threads with the knowledge of those that have been there and done all that.

I always take too many "after" photos and not enough "before" photos :)

I bought some Permatex Ultra-Copper RTV .. good to like 700 degrees, which Permatex recommends for exhaust systems. Will try that ... don't want anything that hardens like most of the exhaust "sealants" out there.

I have a feeling the factory probably changed exhaust system parts and designs more than just about anything else ... so commonly replaced back then, easy to work on, easy to fix and probably generated their share of customer complaints.

I noticed the Inline clamps have the hump in the clamp, but it's smaller and just there for looks, not like the originals where it was obviously for strength.

I'm tempted to oil up the slip joints a bit for the test fitting ... kind of a pain trying to adjust things without it ... I guess I could clean them before putting the sealer on.

Gardner Exhaust. I recently installed this Exhaust from Gardner. I was very happy with fit and finish

Wow, I think that's the first restored car I've seen with the original style '68 exhaust, that is, with the 'resonator' stubs spliced into the tailpipe.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...6&d=1583886649

I remember when I was a kid and bought my GTO used in 1976 .. first time I looked up under and saw those things ... I'm like, what the heck are those, can't wait to rip that crap off :) Now all that "crap" is costing my lots of money to replace :)

Got my system in place, loosely bolted, all looks good so far. I do have some observations.

Is it just me or is hooking up the pipe to the left side manifold a pain in the butt? One of the studs was just too long and I had to trim in down in the lathe. They were aftermarket SS studs with the brass nuts. And it's all very close to the lower control arm pivot.

The muffler hangers are awful hard to tighten with the nuts on top and no room to get a ratchet and socket between the clamp nut and the rear cross member.

I assume the factory figured that most clamps would be just cut off when the system was replaced? Is that why all the clamp nuts are on top, or was it just to be a pain in the ass?

I'm waiting for the sealant to get here to tighten things down a bit more .... as nice as these joints fit I'm not sure if they even need any.

Would like to see some close ups of those resonators, clamps, hangers, etc.

Forgot to take pictures of mine, but its kind of the same story. I will say the fitement around the gas tank straps is snug. If I was to do mine over, I would have left the tail pipes loose & not final tightened until I had the body & fuel tank/straps installed. Not a big deal, but just something I realized as things where going together. Just add that they are loose to your check lists. :)

It really hangs nice under the body also. I had no issues with the fit.

Very, very NICE ddcrank.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...2&d=1583932550

Thank you Greg. Yes its been a long time project that's finally getting close. The car is very sentimental to me. I've owned the car for 40 years and my Dad and i used to drive the car to our ball games. We lost Dad 6 years ago but he was involved in seeing the car getting its restoration done. He helped me put the engine together and saw it dyno. We also installed the engine in the frame together. So they say a labor of love yes it is.

My goal with the car is to have it concourse judged that why i went with the correct Exhaust system from Gardner.

I'd rethink using that sealer. In my own personal experience years ago I thought I'd come up with a great idea using that hi temp permatex to seal my system I put on there from leaking anything. It was a mistake. No matter how tight I made those clamps, the pipes wouldn't tighten down. my mufflers kept twisting on them when everything got hot and one muffler actually came off on me. I swore never again.

So far, with my preliminary installation, with only the head pipe bolts tight ... no leaks that I can hear or see, so I think you are right, the sealant isn't necessary. And yes I noticed that things have a tendency to move around even when snugged up. Not going to really clamp down until the very last, probably after the body work is installed.

what is the sealant that Gardner gives with their system? I was never sure if it was an gem thing, or just something they included. Looked like clear silicone. I have an orignal exhaust system removed from a 1978 Trans am at less than 1000 miles. You can see where sealant was used on the joints & still resides on the pipes today. BUT, this is 10 years later & on a Trans am, not an A body. I used some sealant on the tail pipe to muffler connection only. not much, but just a little & then I tightened the clamps until I could not turn them in the connection point. I didn't want to put a deep indent from the clamp that would make removal all but impossible later. Then as luck would have it, I did have to take it back apart & it was a lot harder to separate than I thought it would be. I know I mentioned it before, but I also had to loosen things up & drop some of it down to install my gas tank. The tail pipes are sooooo close the the tank & strap bolts.

I can post picts

I just cranked mine up yesterday after snugging things up another turn or so ... everything seems to be staying in place. Tiny leak I can hear at the right side manifold/headpipe.

Ton of condensate coming out the pipes ... anyone ever drill a small drain hole in their mufflers? I've seen some that come that way. I know I'm not running it long enough to dry out the pipes.

This is the sealer that Gardner wants you to use on there system. It comes with the system.

I have started my engine many times throughout the last 2 years putting the car together. almost always spitting water. Had the car at the muscle car nationals last November & dripped a few drops on the display mirrors after setup. So two Sundays ago I drove the car for the first time on the road. could not resist stomping the pedal down once coming out of a roundabout in my neighbor hood. IT spraying out a crazy amount of rusty water. almost like a reddish orange cloud, not tire white tire smoke.

I wasn't too surprised as there had been too many starts & stops I am sure every low spot in the pipes and mufflers had water in them.

I think the sealant mine came with was the same as ddcrank posted above.

My 78-80 trans ams have oem holes in the mufflers, however those mufflers are tipped down towards the driveshaft, so I question if they ever did any good.
Never made any leaking sounds from them though. holes are about 1/8-3/16"

Noticed a lot of condensate coming out of mine at idle ... first thing I thought of was that the mufflers didn't have drain holes. Not sure why, I though most of the factory mufflers had them. Seems like a good idea and I might just drill some in mine when the body is down and I can check the level accurately.

I would guess the vast majority of the condensation starts in the muffler as it's the first place the vapor has a chance to cool enough to condense.

Seems I heard way back in the day that an engine that produces a lot of condensate is running efficiently and the condensate is a sign a lot of the hydrocarbons are converting to H20 vapor ... or something to that effect.

Unleaded gas really extends exhaust life. The lead in the gas of that era would burn in the combustion chamber and burning lead produces very corrosive acid which accelerated the destruction of the exhaust system (and things like rear bumper chrome and pot metal taillight bezels etc).