467 numbers.
 

I thought I would share the results on the new engine for my 37. Overkill in a few areas but the goal was to make 500 hp and tons of usable torque. I think it has lots of room to grow if I decide at some point to put more cam in. The converter in the 700R4 is only about a 2200 stall. I'm pretty happy with the results!

1976 455 block
Butler/Ross 467 stroker kit
HR 230/236 @ .050 510/520 lift w 1.5 rockers 112 LS
Butler Dport 87cc 310+cfm Edelbrock heads
Warrior tunnel ram with 2 1407 Edelbrock 750 carbs
Thorley 3 tube headers

I'm retiring in about 5 months so planning on some road trips in the near future!

Nice build- That’s gonna be a fun ride!

Congratulations man....badass gangsta ride you’ve made there!! Gonna be tons of fun!!

Should be a ton of fun. Looks great! Are those cymbals for air cleaner lids?

Sure looks like cymbals to me too...nice.

Nice street engine and I love the sleeper look. You're going to surprise a few people with that!

Nice build , but you have more power sitting there right now because your BSFC numbers are very much on the rich side.
You likely have another 20 peak hp and 12 more peak ft lbs of torque there !

Is that the engine dyno?

A very simple upgrade would to 4 tube headers.

Great torque numbers for sure.

Absolutely love the tunnel ram :thumbup:

BSFC isn't a measure of rich or lean.

Thanks! They are cymbals. The gas pedal is a early 40's Slingerland bass drum pedal.
That is the dyno sheet for that engine. four tube headers will come along in the near future.
The tunnel ram works well on the street and the cool factor is way up there although I'm sure it's not the most efficient set up.

All I was going to do was upgrade to a roller cam and then..........

Sweet build.

X2

Stan

Gotta say love the car , has a great look. The wheel overs add to the cool factor. Must say the tunnel ram is so neat ,don’t really see those used much any more.
Nice street engine and the OD is nice . What is the compression ?

Thanks! The 52 wheel covers work well on the car. The engine is 10.1

Lower compression on your build is fine . I’m only at 10:3 and have a much more radical combo and I’m happy there. Street car but gets to the track.
My son is a drummer and sent him the pics of the air cleaner tops. Loved it.......
On a note congrats on future retirement... I’m a month away.....

Nice. I have a similar build - still in pieces. I went with worked 7K3 heads having 230 CFM's, like camshaft, and the 800CFM AVS2 carbs. What is your compression as I seemed to have missed it? I am at a little over 9.0 but may mill my heads a bit just to get closer to 9.5.

Thanks Jim, my engine is 10:1 compression.

Ok, sounds good.

Do you have the dyno numbers for idle on up? Was curious as to the HP/TQ numbers since the tunnel ram is often looked down on as a streetable piece at these lower RPM's.

Again, most will say the tunnel ram is for mid-to-upper RPM's but from your dyno sheet, this does not seem to be the case. It seems to peak at a perfect RPM for a street engine.

I am going more for the period look with my set-up, using velocity stacks topped with a Hilborn style scoop.

Another thing I see. You have the finned valve covers. Make sure you have breathers. I see the oil fill cap, and assume a breather on the other side? I also have finned valve covers and will be using the Moon add-on breathers ala the old school look. I mocked them up on an engine I have sitting and will mount the breathers permanent when I have the tunnel ram in place on the engine.

Tunnel rams are actually better than people give them credit for. The long runners produce good torque through the rpm range and they'll make hp. I've never seen an engine yet that didn't like a tunnel ram when setup properly.

2 biggest issues with them is packaging of course, and cold starts can be a pain, but if you're good at tuning the carbs you're using they can be made to drive pretty decent.

Besides, nothing looks cooler on classic muscle than a period correct tunnel ram

I don't have numbers from idle up, but the car drives great. Crisp throttle response and lots of low and mid power. I do have a breather on the passenger side and PCV valve in the valley pan. Your set-up looks sweet! What's it going in?

OK, driving impression sounds like what I wanted to hear.

Putting the engine in a 1968 Lemans I've had about 20 years. Was on the road about 8 of those. Doing a frame-off resto-mod ala mid '70's look, TKO-600, Ford 9", tunnel ram, big & littles, one piece fiberglass tilt nose, jacked up, white interior, tilt steering column, Grant steering wheel, Jensen door speakers in my new white door panels, Kraco under dash 8-track, and all the extra gauges outside the windshield. LOL

Got side tracked with a 1948 International Box truck I am rebuilding for my brother. Have not touched the '68 in 4 years, but I have been purchasing a boat load of parts that'll make it quick to put it all back together. The body is back on the frame.

Asked in post number 8 but it's still not clear. I presume the testing was performed on a engine dyno and not a chassis dyno.

A water brake engine dyno like a SuperFlow needs to be set to operate in a certain rpm range based off the torque the engine is producing. After some initial pulls and adjustments to the brake, you start testing at a certain rpm. More often than not at about 3000 rpm and up.

"Starting engine dynamometer pulls at low rpm is hard on the dyno and hard on the engine. Today, engine dynamometer testing is an integral part of many HOT ROD engine buildups and product tests. Typically these tests start no lower than 2,800 rpm, and often higher."

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/dyno...often%20higher.


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Misunderstood the question in post #8. Testing was done on a engine dyno at Westside Performance in Houston TX.

Westside Performance is a good shop. I've had a few dyno sessions there, the last was in Oct this year. Cost at that time was $650.

I mentioned the tid bit about a engine dyno because it was asked about numbers for idle on up.

Nice build.


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Thanks Steve, good people at Westside. Mine was done in January, same price.