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Rally wheel painting
For those who have done this. Once the silver is sprayed, how long do you wait to apply the taped inserts to spray the charcoal paint? I don't want to pull the silver off and I don't want the charcoal to lift and do want it to stick. I've painted with spray cans before and they usually list recoat times. The paint from Inline Tube doesn't specify.
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Give it 24 hrs. If it pulls off it wasn't prepped well. I always spray the center charcoal first. Easier to mask the charcoal than all of the silver.
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Am I confused? I thought the only thing silver was the was the 5 spokes. The rest on mine look to be sprayed charcoal. I could swear I read somewhere, where it states to spray wheel silver, apply vinyl spoke stickers and paint charcoal.
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Ok. Mine are silver around outside rim. It seems easier to spray silver, apply my vinyl decals on spokes, mask outside rim area and spray charcoal.
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Also interested in this as I am close to painting mine, and have purchased the Inline paint as well.
I believe the Inline spray cans are lacquer, which should result in quick drying and recoating anytime...hoping this is correct. |
most rallys should be painted all silver then just the insides are painted charcoal. that allows for no trim rings like many early ones were & to me looks much better without trim rings. i think later years that use trim rings they started only painting the spokes silver because the trim rings covered most the rim.
depends on the paint being used for for cure time to apply masking, ive never used inline paint so cant say for sure but with other brands of actual wheel paint in a can that is fast drying i let it cure for about 30 minutes to 1 hour & lightly applied the masking, i did my own masking & cut the edges with a razor blade but the templates work too. many paints have a specific small window for recoating or you need to wait 24-48 hours & lightly scuff to recoat. i would call inline to ask about cure times before just guessing if theres no instructions on the can. another trick i use that a long time painter taught me is that after you spray the silver (or whatever color) & put the masking on, push the edges down firmly with your fingers & then spray a light coat of silver around the edges of the masking, that gets that same color under the edges so the next color doesnt bleed under the edges. works great on the rallys ive painted. |
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My mistake, as I mask mine with Fine Line and tape, not the vinyl cut outs which require spraying silver first. I tried those once, and they weren't that great a fit for me. |
X2 with 400 4spd. I always painted the Grey first since it's a lot less to tape up. 24 hrs to mask w 2" tape and cut with a razor blade. I need to repaint mine now as a matter of fact. 400, those rims look fantastic!
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The tape time is what I was worried about. Don't want to pull the silver off after the charcoal is painted. But, didn't want to wait too long so charcoal paint doesn't stick to silver or lifts. I've had issues with lift and wait times with other spray paints. Trying to avoid that. Rims should be back from blaster tomorrow for prime and paint. I'll call Inline.
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Yup …fine line tape….no cutting tape with a razor blade…that just gives rust a head start
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I've just used the 'ol ebay masking kit, and the paint is easy to find at virtually any auto supply store. Not factory by any means but acceptable to me. I waited a couple of days before spraying the charcoal I just wanted to be sure that it was good and dry.
Interesting about spraying the charcoal first. I don't know that I would have the patience or the talent to acheive something that I would be happy with. |
Ya, I'm not sure where a razor blade comes in for cutting. Spray silver, then tape the outside of rim edge to spokes and tear the tape tail. Then stick the vinyl to the spokes and spray the charcoal. Seems easier than taping all the inside that would've been sprayed charcoal first too.
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The first wheel ain’t bad to tape off….the other 3 suck
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I can line up a set and it takes me 45 minutes per wheel to mask for the second color.
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Not looking forward to it. |
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I wish. In fact I'm going to take advantage of them being on vacation so I can work on the body restoration of my Sting Ray. |
There’s a guy in the area that does snowflakes, ( Mongo) I’m sure he’d do rally’s. I’d just drop them off. Pita painting
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The next set l do will be charcoal first.. l like that idea.
Never used the masking kit. Just a combination of different tapes and masking paper. Sent from my moto g stylus (2021) using Tapatalk |
Inline tube says wait 72-96 hours before tape/repaint. Wow! Now I wonder if I have to scuff first coat to get second color to adhere correctly.
I called Seymour and had to leave a message. Their tech sheets say nothing. |
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wow 72-96 hours for recoat seems excessive.
there are a few other brands of wheel paints that are very close to the correct color, i used rustoleum wheel paint for the charcoal & silver & both colors look very nice & pretty close to the original charcoal. much faster drying & holds up to heat & brake dust etc. hard to beat at $5/can. to avoid the scuffing potential some paints require, maybe just roughly mask the charcoal area to avoid getting silver in that area & just concentrate the silver spray on the face of the spokes that get silver, leave most the center area in primer? heres a pic of the rustoleum wheel paint, these are hand masked, not the template & sprayed silver first then charcoal. |
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Both colors are sprayed using base coat, not aerosol. After the silver goes on, it's un-taped and the whole face gets two coats of a flattened urethane clear.
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However you decide to mask them and whatever paint you decide to use don't forget to paint the backsides battleship gray first. If you leave the backsides cruddy looking they WILL show through the openings.
Sent from my moto g stylus (2021) using Tapatalk |
Seems like if the center is charcoal, you'd almost want the same dark showing through backside openings rather than contrasting the two colors.
One thing that threw me off when I started this venture was, someone painted these rims charcoal around the perimeter bands of rim. So, the only silver was the spokes and small inside band connecting them all. |
Got them painted and looks better than I thought. The vinyl stickers for the spokes work wonderful. Taping the rest wasn't bad.
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Did you scuff at all before second colour? No lifting issues when unmasking? Thanks |
24 hours. Lightly scuffed with scotchbrite. No lifting after pulling tape after paint applied to that surface. Pulled the tape about 12 hours after it was applied with zero issues. Charcoal color paint applied well over previously painted silver.
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Anyone powder coat silver, then spray charcoal centers? I’m toying with that idea .
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Ended up blasting the face of the wheels back to bare metal and starting over with epoxy primer. The power coating was super durable and very hard to blast off, but the charcoal just had nothing to bite into. |
I would guess if you power coat, you would have to tape and scuff the powder coat good for adhesion of next color. I doubt Wheel Vin does that during their process.
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I powder coated some Rallye IIs and the car sat outside here in Florida. Before a year they were rusting down in the groove between the rim and the hub. The next time I did some wheels I painted them. POR 15 down in the that spot, then primer then paint, all with a brush. More than 10 years later, outside the whole time, no rust at all.
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