Hideaway up limiter..or whatever they're called.
 

Sometime ago someone posted photos of the tabs that limit the upper travel of the hideaway headlight covers. Can someone post the dimensions and a photo or two again? My car obviously needs them.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...967b79314e.jpg

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This is a pic of an original. Believe 18 ga. , .540 wd x.875 tall. The bend is .185 and oval is +- .230x.500. One per side near grill. Goes between metal door and clip, not between clip and door cover. Not sure why they are no longer available repop. Measurements +- paint

Ah yes, I remember that thread... https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=849989


Frank

Thanks guys, just what l needed.

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it looks like the grille is low on that side and not centered top to bottom ??

I thought I may have been seeing that myself Greg.

Charles

I guess it's possible. Either way, at this point it's the headlights that I'm going to be messing with, otherwise I'll be pulling the whole bumper off before I know it. When I manually push the headlight covers down 1/4 of an inch or so everything lines up..well, close enough for me anyway.
These show the alignment as-is.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a56953cb79.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d713a04c53.jpg

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Another angle, this time with the covers pushed down to align.
I don't get out much so how's this? I do have a slightly larger gap at the bottom than the top where the headlight covers meet the outboard edges of the grills so it is possible that I might be able to flex the mounts up on the outboard ends if that makes sense. Bring them UP to meet the headlight covers that is.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6fce931317.jpg

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I put some small washers between the brackets & the main headlight mount on one side of my car to ge the grills to match perfect. amazing how much time you can spend on the front end, but its all worth the effort when they line up. Your grill restoration turned out very nice BTW.

I say the grills need to come up on the outboard end Greg?
Seems to my eye that I can see a droop of the grills, even on the vertical spaces in the middle?
Is there any way to adjust the grill mounting attachments places to raise just the outboard ends up a wee bit?


Of course I don't know a damn thing about this at all.
Charles

Funny how threads get sidetracked. As far as I know the inner grilles are bolted to the upper bar. There are no shims and the lower grill floats in the lower mounts that have the oval rubber grommet. So how the heck would you raise or lower it? Seriously. The gap at the top of bumper to grill looks consistent to me from side to side. Pictures can be deceiving. Door to grill vertical gap not bad. These cars were not perfect when new and if Greg installs the stops to align the doors to grill a really great looking 68 will look nicer. End of my rant. Sorry Greg

No apologies needed Leo.
The grilles aren't perfectly plumb but any adjustments would require bending or shimming the grille mounts, removing, replacing and checking several times and they can be a bit of a pain. Maybe one day but not soon.
Funny, they always looked good to me until I posted the pics in this thread LOL.

For gawd sake don't post any more pics... :D

Install the stops and call it a day.



Frank

Actually, the whole front clip could probably use a redo so it does not surprise me that posting pictures might elicit some constructive criticisms... But at this point in my life I'll leave that for the next owner!
Thanks for ALL of the replies guys.

I meant to post this a while back but within a few days of getting replies on this thread I ran across these things. I have no idea what they were originally for but I'm kind of anal about keeping any kind of unused hardware that comes with anything.. They worked once I slightly modified the hole.
Still not perfect and I could tweak it some more but I'm good with it for now. It's an improvement.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1591089a50.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1e8fcf3bbf.jpg

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For the life of me I cannot recall seeing brackets like that in my car.
Funny though, after almost 3 years of finishing it, I am starting to forget many of the details
that I had studied over & over for the 2 decades prior. :)

I was looking at them kind of closely also and I don’t recall ever seeing those brackets on any of the 20 or so 6869 Endura. bumpers that I’ve had but…

Number 38, center of pic.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c82ed0287d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...491391d619.jpg

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Greg, are those stops in the photo originals or a reproduction part?

I built my Endura from the parts from two different complete Enduras and didn't see those in my collection of parts ... but my bumpers were not unmolested by any means.

I notice my covers come to a pretty hard upper stop at the end of the actuator travel. I'm just wondering what circumstance would lead to the need for the stops. Wonder if it's once again a factory to factory difference, perhaps different actuator suppliers with a slightly different length of throw etc. ? But.... there it is in the parts diagram, so obviously standard issue.

The ones I used are just some pieces I found in one of my hardware stashes. They obviously came with something that I bought in the past like a piece of furniture or something. I have no idea.
As soon as I saw them I knew that they would work for this purpose so I just used a couple of them.
If you look back at the original thread about these tabs, link in post number three of THIS thread, you'll see that several people have no need for them and even question their existence.. but my headlight covers did need them.
When I noticed that my covers always seem to be slightly elevated I remembered that thread which is why I started this one.

Nice job of repurposing some parts you had available!! Looks awesome!!
In that diagram you posted, #40 is a piece I'd bet most restored hideaway cars are missing. It's a plastic cap that fits over the upper door cover screws so 2 per side. Most likely a safety cap for headlight replace or adjustment so tech doesn't get cut on pointed tip of screw.
Again nice job Greg!!

I think I'd rather have the stops in place and then adjust the over-center to pull them up nice and snug against the stops. Might have to add some to mine, they stay in the right place now, but with very little tenacity. Hehe those parts looks so "right" that I thought that's what they were made for, good eye.

Yeah, l see what you are referring to. Never would have noticed that and can definitely see a purpose for them because yes, those screws are sharp!

Since all of you Hideaway gurus are here anyway, I thought I'd add a question. I've been collecting parts to do my hideaway conversion. I bought the 68 repop door covers from the Parts Place and they appear to be very nice. I did a trial fit of the covers to the doors and used some 8-18 black headed trim screws that I thought were correct, but the heads barely cover the rather large holes in the covers. So, this leads me to wonder; is that the way they were from the factory? Do I just have the wrong 8-18 screws and the factory version had larger heads, or were the original screws #10? Could it be the holes are larger in the repop door covers?

Thanks
Old Joe

BTW, big thanks to John (Dataway) as he supplied me with some of his leftover hideway parts for FREE! :thumbup:

I'm using the "door savers" offed in the Ames catalogue which come with their own screws . I'd say they were #10 size.
If you're not familiar with them they are a pretty good idea to keep the screw heads from cracking your doors. They are made of metal painted flat black and fit the perimeter of the plastic door.
I just noticed that they also have in the catalog those screw guards that 6869GTO mentioned earlier.

I've seen lots of dialog on the door savers and they seem like a good idea. I'd prefer not to use them if I don't have to, but I'm now wondering if the small heads of the #8 screws are what cause the cracking. Of course, any original parts are now over 50 years old, so the fact they survived at all is pretty good.

I thought the same thing when I installed the screws .. they are small.

I notice the 69 Assembly Manual lists the cover screws and nuts as a "revision" part number. .. Wonder if they changed them due to cracking.

In a situation like that I tend to use what I think is factory and just keep in mind not to make the same mistake (in this case overtightening) made back in the day that caused the problem.

I have another "off the wall" idea that I'm going test. The holes in the headlight covers are large enough that I think I could insert a short length of thin walled vinyl tubing in the cover hole and then put the screw through the tubing. That would keep the screw centered with the hole in the headlight cover and help create an even distribution of pressure around the holes in the cover. Lightly torqued, I think it would be effective. Even more crafty, if I could find the right diameter thin walled rubber tubing (similar to vacuum line), I could possible make the tubing just slightly longer (maybe 1/16") than the thickness of the cover. When torquing down the screws, it would sandwich the tubing and squish it to hold the covers tight without damaging the covers (In theory)........ I'm not overthinking this am I? LOL :Ithink:

A black nylon or rubber washer might be nice under that screw even if you went with a screw that has a larger head.

McMaster Carr has a large selection of rubber/nylon washers with ID and OD specs.