WWYD?
 

What Would You Do?
How would you approach this? Tailgate area on my ‘63 Safari. The car will not get painted but I do want to clean up and paint the jamb areas.

Steps please.

Can I just sandblast and epoxy prime?
Ospho?

I first thought would be to dissolve the rust with naval jelly, phosphoric acid or whatever you like the best. Looks like you caught it just in the nick of time.

sand blasting is a mess. i would use an encapsulater like mentioned above.

I’d probably wire wheel it w a small wire brush , the. Use white vinegar on it to etc and prime fill with filler primer sand and paint to patch as best you can

I would also wire wheel it. You can buy different sizes and shapes for tight contours. Then use a rust inhibitor or transformer like Rustoleum sold at Ace Hardware in a small plastic bottle. Epoxy prime and touch up with paint. This could all be done with a small brush since you aren't going to paint outside and no need to get overspray anywhere.

Wire wheel on a drill. Hit it with 3M Rust Mort to convert it, then paint it

Plus, that's the good side. You need to shoot something up inside and let it run out, that's where it's all rusty, inside.

Exactly!
That’s why I think I’ll squirt some Ospho into the seams and openings to help stop what can’t be cleaned up. Seems people either love or hate Ospho but this ain’t no show car so I’ll try it. When you live in New England, this is what you get…..

I have been using white vinegar to soak small rusted parts and pieces. Works great! It does need to soak a while though.

Attachment 614610

I’ve been experimenting with this stuff for ovah 15 years ...with excellent results.

I’d clean up those areas with a carbide rasp tip...in a drill...or something that spins faster...like my whizz wheel. Clean up the loose rust ....and feather edge sand with 180...and apply one coat with an acid brush...wait 20 minutes ...the follow with a second coat.
Let that dry for 12 hours...then lightly scratch it with some 220...and apply some putty ,if needed to fill in some craters.

If no craters ...just lightly scuff (without breaking through) with some 220...then epoxy prime ...let that flash for 1 hour..then go right to painting

Attachment 614614

Here’s a pic of that rust busting tip

I used to use wire wheels, still good for a lot of applications. But I bought a Milwaukee battery angle die grinder with a variety of roloc discs. Makes the wire wheel seem like the stone age.

I recommend these 3M Roloc bristle discs for areas like this. Superior to wire wheels or carbide burrs and they really get down into the pits left behind by the rust. These work the best for windshield and backglass channels too.

https://www.denali-industrial.com/in...b8a.thumb.webp

After that brush on your epoxy primer followed by paint as tjs72lemans mentioned.

Havent seen those yet, I am running low thinking about putting an order in, will look for those as well.

As with just about everything 3M makes, they are kind of expensive. I lucked out finding a deal on ebay awhile back and bought several of them in different grits. I found the 2" green ones to be the best grit for removing rust.

https://www.roarksupply.com/product-p/048011-18730.htm

You have to be careful with wire wheels on sheet metal. It actually work hardens the metal with all the little impacts. You can end up developing cracks.

Several of the guys on my WWII jeep group said that. I ignored them and wire wheeled the hell out of my fenders because it was easy. Low and behold I developed several cracks and had to get out the MIG.

Obviously, people do it, so Im not telling anyone not to do it, especially professionals. All Im saying is I was warned about it, ignored the warning and it bit me. SO now Im more careful.

I love the Roloc wheels but I burned through them too fast.

Are you talking about their bristle discs? I get pretty good life out of them with some care. But if you catch a sharp edge of something it can damage the bristles and make them not last well at all.

Roger, I was stripping my entire car to metal. I used everything from razor blades to wire cups. The Rolocs were great but I was eating them up at a higher rate than the other things and as you say, they're pricey.
One thing I love about them is they are really easy on the metal. Almost a burnished finish.

Oh yeah, not the right thing to choose for stripping paint on the car for sure. For that, I've been using these from Roarke Supply on an angle grinder:

https://www.roarksupply.com/XtraStri...c-p/sd-blk.htm

Those do look like they'd get it done. I definitely need to upgrade to a 7-in grinder too. I'm using a four and a half incher.

I've never tried the 7". I have a Milwaukee 4 1/2" and it does the job well. It's best to keep them as flat against the panel as you can as they last a lot longer that way. I'd say it takes about 8 give or take to do a whole car. About 2 day's work too.

Well, there is one thing about the 4.5" grinder... I already have it so, that's a big plus. A guy at my supplier was telling me how quickly he could strip a whole car with a 7-incher and it's been in the back of my mind ever since.

Attachment 614702

Good luck getting that into tight areas.........

Attachment 614703

Here’s what the OP is trying to clean up

I'd use the 2" where it works and then switch to the 1".

https://www.aaabrasives.com/media/ca...7000000740.jpg

Haven’t tried those yet...might have to give it a go.

The 1" ones get eaten up quicker but allow getting into smaller places and corners. Still once in a while you find a place where you can't get into with these. Sometimes the angle grinder tool itself doesn't have enough clearance and blocks the access to getting the disc into the spot you need it to.

Look how they do on a windshield channel. It gets all the gunk off and any rust lickety split.

https://www.hotrodders.com/media/img_6102.63608/full

I've never seen that size myself.

Bottom line is, there is not going to be ONE tool that does it all for any aspect of body work. Use what works the best for the task at hand. Sometimes it takes a variety of tools.