Replacement oil pan
 

What is a good stock baffled oil pan on the market now? I bought this one from Butler and it is unusable. That is a factory timing chain cover so that is not the issue.

Bruce, a very good question, i got this pan from Ames............said excate to oem.................a little better than yours , but not much..............i expect some issues with aftermarket pans, but i had to open up almost all of the holes to fit.........

There was not enough sheet steel to start with to form that pan, or they cheaped out with the stretching die’s.

I used a Canton stock replacement on my build. No problems at all with fitment, even with a repro timing cover.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c.../gto/year/1968

Not a stock pan, but I recently used a nightmare performance pan with good results.

I’d be searching for a good used pan.

Can’t hurt to try a want ad in the classifieds here.

I had several I sold some years back, I’d bet someone on the forums has one.

Ken, thanks for that info..................Jason, that nitemare pan looks good also.

Rich

Cheap Summit gold oil pan worked fine and even came with the crappy three tab seal like the Canton.

I will say the slots for the oil pan gasket were off by 1/8" or so on my Canton. Using the tabs on the gasket kept the BOP pan gasket from seating in the channel on the rear cap. Easy fix - just removed tabs off the pan gasket. All the bolt holes lined up to the block and front cover no problem.

Bruce…That sucks.

I never use the rubber seal over the rear cap on the back of the oil pan. I always use a cork gasket, the rubber gasket is problematic and can leak. Even if you don't have the groove in your rear cap for a cork gasket you can still use a cork gasket. SD Performance sell a special cork gasket to go over the rear main if you don't have the cap with a groove.

There’s all different scenarios, my Canton pan, when I ran it on my stock block fit no problem. With just the cork gasket on rear main. I couldn’t used the rubber gaskets with the tabs, even though Canton pan had the slots for rubber gasket. So I just used cork gasket and some good stuff sealer, just thin coat.

But on my IA11 block even with cork gasket there was a space, between the pan and cork gasket… So I had to use both rubber gasket and cork gasket. That’s how much of a space that was. But thank God I’ve never had an issue with it leaking.

But The alignment holes on the pan and front timing cover lined up perfectly. It’s like we were at a state in the Pontiac hobby, today with whats out there that its a 50/50 shot that what you get isn’t going to have a issue. So its like who knows what your going to get. Well I can see the problem is if you get something and you’ve had it for two or three months before you actually need to fit it and use it, then its a real hassle trying to get the issue resolved.

I used the BOP stock style pan, but it's got a 6 qt capacity. Fit without mods and no leaks, so far. Also inexpensive.

You will find it all fits 'better' with gaskets in place

with that said i used a canton stock volume with baffle and had to massage some holes

^^^This^^^

I have a canton repro pan. Fit was decent, definitely much better than that

Im leaning towards a Canton. I have a beat up stock one that I will try to straighten out. If that doesn't work I will order the Canton. Thanks for all the replies.

Even on a couple of my Canton's I've had to get my hand hole punch and nibble the holes a little.

My Stef's for the 409 was so bad I sent it back to be redone-and they have a 409 block they use for mock up!

I have to say the quality of auto parts in general have gone down drastically in the last 15 years. It ruins the enthusiasm I used to have for building old cars. Poor workmanship, questionable materials, and lack if quality assurance (QA). This pan should have never left the factory where it was produced.

In addition to a road race pan we offer an American made pan that's considered a stock replacement but comes with a built in scraper, baffle and upgraded drain plug. Most of the "replacement" pans are based off the Chinese copy of the factory pan that is sold by most reproduction companies and big wharehouse "house" brand.... It's one step better than nothing.

I remember my first "made in the USA" Milodon road race pan I purchased nearly thirty years ago. Their advertising campaign at the time was "every pan is test fit" blah blah blah..... We had to grind several bolt holes to make the bolts fit.

I have the Canton stock replacement pan, the fit is fine but it leaks at the drain plug. It has a copper gasket and no matter how tight the plug is it still leaks. I suspect that it may be leaking through the weld. I need to do further investigation to find the leak point. I hope it's not the weld I would hate to have to pull the engine and remove the pan to get it welded.

I’ve bought the $60 replacement pans in the past and they always fit well enough. Based on recent posts it’s obvious recent QC is in the toilet.

I like the rubber impregnated metal washer for pan plugs like my 97 Chevy truck came with.

I've got a '75 TA 400 I bought new.

I've got some oil issues on hard cornering at the track. In my last outing, i tripped the oil pressure light which I added and is set to 10psi

I'm running 17inch Z rated rubber, which may have something to do with it

I running IJ crank scrapers, a 3/4 windage tray, and a Canton shallow road race pan. I'm running a quart over full. No accusump.

I've been doing a lot of internet "research" and I think not a lot of thought has gone into the design of the canton pan. The shallow canton could have been an inch and a quarter deeper without any ground clearance issues. The orientation of the baffles allows the contents behind the baffles to drain on hard cornering and especially on braking. The supplied pickup is a half inch off the bottom, rather than a more optimal quarter inch.

I've been doing a lot of thought experiments and I've designed my own pan. I'm going to use 'diamond' shaped baffling like in some of the more modern designs on the web. I'll base it on either the stock or the canton pan, deepened one inch.

Comments?

I've used the Milodon 'regular' pan in the past and fit & finish is great. They have a baffle, but obviously nothing like the street/strip pan or the road race pan, but better than stock.

The regular pan when painted looks close to the OE pan, but if one looks closely, can tell it's not OE.



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In the end I found that it wasn't the pan but the drain plug that came with it. The sealing surface had some imperfections on the sealing surface that were bad enough that the copper washer would not seal it up. I called Canton and they sent me a new drain plug.

The fit of the Canton pick-up (for their 15-452 pan) to my Melling 54D pump was ****ty. Since the tube wasn't actually sealed to the port, it had to be fully welded as there would've been a suction leak.

Ahhhh, maybe just me, but why does ames/bulter or whoever sell this stuff not even check to see if its any good one way or the other............i would rather pay triple to get a decent part, i had to throw away two pans that were so far off..............lose more money in return shipping than the pan itself half the time..........guess thats the way it is.

Im sure im gonna get, you should be thankful they make parts for a pontiac...............if your gonna make a part for the pontiac, at least get it somewhat close.

I agree- Ames used to be good at critiquing parts but as of late, they have lots of parts without objective review - the core support for 68-70 GTOs is a good example of this.