Best electric fans ?
 

So what are some of your experiences with electric fans ?
Currently getting the GTO ready for the track. Fuel cell, Fuel pump,getting headers coated , brakes ect,
I have a new aluminum radiator but the fans are only 2600 cfm total.
I did a few test runs to seat the rings and the engine did not get hot but concerned when I go rounds.
I think I could cut my V pump mandrel back and just run a flex fan, I know that will cool her.
Electric fans, a big single or duel fans ? Have a aluminum water pump that seems to work well. And a Moroso electric fan motor on the shelf. Not sure how good they work and not sure where I would mount it as the V pump is on pass side, alternator on driver.
I could do the Mezzerie pump and electric fan deal and run it between rounds but its never been a issue with iron heads, High Ports now.
BTW, its not hot where I live, upper Nor Cal coast.

I'm not sure what year your car is or the radiator style but

ford contour fans flow 3000cfm on low speed and 5000 on high

this is a dorman # for the assy 620-104

outside dimensions are 24.5 wide and 16 tall

69 GTO, A body.

I believe this is the original radiator from my 72 LeMans. Contour fan doesn't quite cover it.

S827 is the standard # for the fan pigtail

Depth is just over 3" at the motor

For an OEM application, the Lincoln Mark 8 fan is hard to beat.

Is the low/high on the dual Contour fans just one on vs both on, or does each individual fan actually have two speeds?

Here is an interesting one I stumbled across

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...cs/723498.html

Mercedes fan with a built in soft start. Looks like it would work.

I found that while looking for a 4 wire Mercedes wiring diagram. I have a more modern Mercedes bosch brushless (probably PWM too) fan that I got at a swap meet for $5. It has a massive 19" blade. Ive been looking for an excuse to use it. I can hot wire it on using 3 of the 4 wires, but I don't know what the 4th wire on it is for. I assume for use controlling speed with a PWM.

There is a resistor built into the housing for low speed. This thread shows a wiring diagram.

https://www.corral.net/threads/conto...iring.2510121/

Other than less noise I'm not sure why low speed would be necessary. A person could run fans one at a time also. Unsure of the value in any of that.

What I am looking for is someone with experience in hot weather as far as the type of electric fans you can just buy from Summit.
I big single with shroud or duel fans ?
Not worried about spending a little coin. Just do not want to do it twice.

I use an HHR fan on my Firebird and never had an issue.

I just swapped over to a Derale dual fan setup with a shroud. They use Spal fans. I'm controlling the fans with a DC control PWM control module. I'm thinking this setup with my new Cold Case rad should work well. The setup is replacing my stock 3 core rad and clutch fan setup that worked great.

I've been using Derale lately (dual w shroud), work good, but still a little on the low cfm side. I think they are 4000cfm max, together, can find others that work well. They are pretty flat too, and dual fans offset the motors so no interference with the water pump snout.

Thing with high cfm fans, with no soft-start, they pound your alt and wiring, and you have to do something for hot re-starts, they can drain starter power if they come on with the key. (controller)

If it's a track car, you can just do an on/off switch, but still have to remember to turn them on or off, to avoid those oh-chit moments.

PWM controllers are the way to go, and you can have them not come on until a certain RPM is reached, like 600 RPM. Some controllers are not potted, and can't handle weather, not sure what good those are, but many never check to see if they are potted.

I suggest deep cycle batteries when using E-fans too, obvious reasons.

Spal hands-down are the best. They advertise 'primary cooling' functionality, something many fail to address. You do pay for the premium tho.

I'm sure many OE fans work, but if you want to be sure you have ample flow, source them from trucks.

CFM ratings are not standardized, but usually amp draw is a good indicator. For dual fans, pick ones that are 25a or better.

This is the Derale setup I use on my 68-72 A-bodies:

https://derale.com/product-footer/el...s/16837-detail

I know people that are using the Derale PWM controller with good results, they at least last a few years. You get a slight deal on pricing if you buy the 'kit' with the controller:

https://derale.com/product-footer/el...s/66837-detail

You can have one or both run at a lower % starting around 150 degrees, and ramp them up to 100% at like 190-195. They have delay & soft start and a 20-sec after shutdown run feature.

Shrouds have relief vents too, many overlook that feature.

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This is the company that provided me with my controller. Lee Atkinson made the recommendation. All units are load tested before being shipped out. Built in the USA by a one man show.
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm

A fwiw tid bit when shopping for electric fans...........

Years ago there was no common industry standard for rating electric automotive fans, I presume the same situation today. Most companies use a cfm rating, often expressed in free-flow and not when placed behind a radiator. You can never know for certain about different cfm ratings or how a company has rated their fan since they can be tested by different criteria and methods. For comparison between brands using cfm ratings alone can be difficult, typically might not be apples-to-apples.


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This is a very timely thread. Been researching radiator & electric fan set ups for my son's LS powered 79 TA for a couple weeks now. Have never messed with electric fans so it's been a real eye opener. I really want to go brushless so as not to have to deal with a standalone external PWM controller. From what I gather, these controllers seem to be hit or miss with respect to reliability. I actually have one on order from DCC but it's been a around a month and I haven't heard anything, so that doesn't inspire confidence that I can get a replacement if/when it fails. Anyways, the Derail brushless dual powerpacks seem like a very good option. The challenge has been finding a radiator with good provisions for mounting the shroud. Just can't tell what will work from photos and drawings on-line. Wondering what folks are using?

When I get electric fans, I plan on going with the Flex-A-Lite #295 116524. The reviews on them are generally good, and HWYSTR used them as well on his 2nd gen and stated they were very powerful. They'll require a stronger ALT and a PWM controller, though, for best functionality. These fans are made for trucks but their dimensions happen to perfectly accommodate a 2nd-gen radiator with full coverage, and the shape of the shroud is also ideal for air extraction in that it's not "flat" but both fans are in a conical mold. Like SPAL fans, they also have rubber flaps that open up at speed to let more air through on the highway.

'79's always face a bit of trouble taking in air at speed since they're bottom breathers. The air doesn't just rush straight in like a traditionally placed grille such as on 70-78 models, rather it has to go in and then UP, which is why the chin spoiler for T/As (while the non-T/A trim levels have a plain air dam that's usually missing) is extremely important for routing air into the condenser and radiator while at speed alongside the grilles.

I have a stck 2000 camaro dual fan on my 455. it seems to work alrigth. Prob a little low on the CFM though. One Day I'll get a PWM controller for them tho.

I have used dual Spal fans for decades now. Keeps cool everywhere; Southern CA, desert side of Oregon (high altitude, dry, hot), etc.....

I bought my first controller from DCC around 2008. I sold that car in 2021, and the controller was still working perfectly, I never had to do a single thing to it after the original installation. I've installed about a dozen over the years, and sold dozens more from my recommendation (such as TA Man). I have yet to hear of any of them failing.

If it DOES fail, it is designed to "fail safe" so your fan(s) will go to full speed.

I love SPAL fans, but they once offered a PWM controller, I bought two of them, neither lasted more than a year. I've stuck with DCC since then. Like
Ernie mentioned, they are all made by ONE guy, and he has a day job. He typically sets up a 48-hour test run (EVERY controller he sells goes through his QC process) on Friday, finishing on Sunday. It is usually about 3 weeks from when I order to when I get the controller.