Engine Oil Additives
 

This video may change your mind about certain oil additives. The part I like the most about this video is when he said, if you need an oil additive then you have the wrong oil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAGT5inQScE

These videos are a dime a dozen!! This boob says one thing and I can find many others that will debunk his findings!! Personal choice is the real key here as is what oil to use brand/weight and whether to add zddp or not!!!

i just wanna know what is going on in someone's life when they have 30 minutes to watch a video on oil additives... with three kids, a puppy, a crazy wife and a hot rod i barely have time to wipe my ass thoroughly!!!

The invisible boogie man, Can't be proven or disproven.

Lucas stop leak actually did what it advertised.

If one watches enough Roadkill and Roadkill Garage episodes…..one will learn that “additives” don’t do much of anything. Lol

Some additives do what they claim but proper maintenance will eliminate the need for most of them except for maybe fuel cleaners.

Witnessed both Seafoam and Marvel Mystery oil unstick lifters....because the oil wasn't changed regularly. Same goes for stuck rings.

Seen both Lucas Transmission Fix and Dr Tranny Shudder Fixx (yes, 2 xx's) fix a slipping transmission because the fluid wasn't changed enough (or at all) or the vehicle was driven very hard and the clutches were worn.

Seen head gasket sealers work (NEVER use them on an engine you care about!) because the coolant wasn't changed regularly or the engine was overheated...because the coolant wasn't changed on a regular basis.

Seen Engine Restore curtail and eliminate oil consumption due to worn cylinders from infrequent oil changes. Also seen it work on engines with very high mileage that were properly cared for.

I've used seafoam in small engine equipment I acquired that were misfiring due to clogged carbs but still ran...kind of. Pour a hefty amount in the gas tank and the engine runs butter smooth 5-20 minutes later. 100% successful on a shredder, weed eater (free), and 2 rototillers (the Honda rototiller was free, the rear tine was dirt cheap). Saved me time and money rebuild carbs or buying a Chinnese knockoff and swapping it out.

29 years ago, had a buddy with a Toyota truck (high mileage) that would grind a bit in 2nd gear when cold. Told him to try some Duralube and see what happens. Fixed the problem. He still has that truck.

Lucas makes a great racing oil and they do recommend their additive to it also.
I have ran Lucas in everything for decades. Never blown anything up.
That said, I now consider Shaeffers to be the best oil on earth.
And will run it plain.
Why is it the best ?
They are getting 1,000,000+ miles out of gas and diesel engines and they still run great on tear down.
And, people are getting 5-7 more horsepower just running that oil on dyno tests vs the same weight Mobil 1.
Pretty much means they are the best.

I run both Lucas oil additive and Lucas fuel treatment in everything here and have for decades.

Couldn't tell if the oil treatment helps but I've had zero issues with any engines I use it in.

I know for sure the fuel treatment works as I get more MPG's in my Nissan Xterra and you can notice the improvement in power vs not using it.

I've also owned quite a few diesel powered trucks and make up my own mixture of Lucas fuel treatment and 2 stroke engine oil. They all get a few ounces at every fill-up and never in all the years and thousands of miles of use did I have one single fuel pump, injector or other fuel system related issue with any of them.

Matter of fact if you own a Duramax with the CP4 pump, or a Ford or Dodge diesel that used that pump you need to be using a lubricant in the fuel. CP4 pumps are actually better than the CP3's, and they have next to zero issues with them in Countries that didn't remove everything from the diesel fuel, but here in the USA catastrophic CP4 pump failures are a HUGE problem, especially for LML Duramax engines.......FWIW.....

Is the Lucas upper cylinder lubricant the treatment that your using cliff ?

Oil is more religion than science. Yeah the wrong oil or viscosity can certainly screw you, but there is little difference between optimal and good enough.

I know a guy that's had multiple ~700hp big block Chevy engines, doing drag and drives, buys the cheapest walmart shelf oil, changes his oil regularly, periodically sends oil in for analysis and it always comes back good. Put tens and tens and tens of thousands of miles on those engines.

Me, I adjust viscosity to see the oil pressures I like while driving, and put a zddp additive in my non-roller engines, run the engines hot enough to burn off moisture and any fuel that got by the rings, then change the oil regularly enough it doesn't sludge up.

I am running VR1 right now because of the flat tapper cam. I hate oil discussions in general but I would like to see a round table on this because 10-30 to me is thin and 20-50 puts me damn near 100 pounds cold. If I could put 15-40 in with a bottle of Lucas additive and feel secure both I and my wallet would be happy as hell.

Same here!! Tried Lucas fuel treatment a couple months ago. In my 08 5.7 hemi and 91 2.5 Shadow. Both had noticeable improvements in MPG and power. I was actually amazed. Been using Seafoam for years, never noticed anything really with that. Lucas is a different story for sure

Lucas makes good products! Their injector cleaner is the only one I’ll use.

In my roller liftered Buick I usually run 4 quarts 10w-30 and one 20w-50. Maybe two quarts 20w-50 when doing a drag and drive where the oil gets extra hot and I'm also harder on the engine. In my OHC, because there are no spinning lifters or rollers, run 4 qts 10w-30 and 1 Lucas Oil Stabilizer, which thickens it up plenty.

I like to see ~40psi at 2,500 rpm, which is basically cruising speed, that's what I adjust too. If I see that 40psi cruising, it'll be at 60psi by 4,000rpm which is plenty. I've not worried about 800rpm pressure because I have a background in Buick's :p

The same thing can be accomplished with 2 cycle oil with TcW3 that you get with Lucas fuel treatment for half the cost.

The biggest difference is Lucas really isn't overly critical how much you dump in the tank and you actually use more of it per gallon according to their instructions.
The 2 cycle oil only needs 1 ounce per 5 gallons of gas. So a very small amount that needs to be measured. You get the same end result. Better mpg, lubricates the top of the engine, valves, seats, upper cylinders etc... and it's way cheaper. A gallon will treat up to 600 gallons of fuel.

I've been using that in everything for about 25 years.

Only way to know if your getting the protection you want, or to compare what you're using vs switching to something else is do an oil analysis. It tells you what you're asking, no one here can tell you any better.

Do an oil analysis on what you currently use and when you're satisfied your results are consistent make the switch, run it for the same amount of miles and do another analysis. If it comes back as good and it's saving you money then you have your answer.

Have you considered Driven GP1 15/40?

https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304977...mance-oil.html

2qts. of 10w30 and 3qts. of the 20w50 would work using VR1 or 50/50 would work also. As temps change outside you could mix to whatever ratio works for you.

I dumped in a bottle of Rislone Engine Treatment concentrate and drove 100 miles before an oil change a few weeks ago. Right at startup after I dumped the bottle in and even after changing the oil, my sticky lifter doesn't happen nearly as often on cold start up and my valvetrain quieted down a lot. It definitely did something.

My brother in law is a chemist at Lucas oil in California. He personally knows the owner of the company. My brother in law formulates the racing oil for a prominent Nascar Racing Team located in Welcome North Carolina. Even he says that some of the Lucas products are snake oil, which includes the oil stabilizer. He once asked the owner why he sells the stuff, his reply was because they make a lot of money. If you have the right oil adding additives will only make it worse not better. Just because you have used it for years and your engines didn't blow up is not scientific evidence that it did anything positive to improve engine life or performance. Fuel additives for the most part do help to clean fuel injectors.

Many years ago I bought a 67 GTO, back in 1973. The oil changes had been neglected and there was sludge built up under the valve covers. So following the instructions exactly I added a can of Risolene engine flush. Then changed the oil and filter. The next time I got on it hard through the gears it developed a rod knock. I had sludge but then I needed a new engine. Better to have sludge. Don't use this stuff just change the oil.

thanks for posting this

I remember these comments you posted months back regarding Lucas products! Never believed it and also wondered what type of snake oil Lucas is?? Rattlesnake, Garter Snake, etc.!! Further, I also wondered how Lucas would feel to know an employee is running down their products!! Regardless, it is your relative's opinion which is not shared by many. I've used Lucas products and have seen the benefits they give my classic!! Cliff Ruggles also uses their products and his experiences I hold in high regard!! Again, oil, additives, etc. is a personal choice and people use what they're comfortable with!! Period!!! The internet, chat rooms, etc. are full of BS, probably 75-80% so I recommend anyone wanting to try these products to use them and see the results for themselves!!

Yeah I doubt the CEO is talking **** about his “money making” product. In fact if it is snake oil and he knows it human nature says he’s more likely to double down when pressed. I use Lucas and STP. Lucas trans goo is what’s keeping the 4L60 in my truck going. I know cause it stopped the shudder. What’s your brother in laws sisters cousins gynecologists feelings on STP?

I use Marvel Mystery Oil on occasion. I have seen good results adding it to gas and/or oil. But it is mechanic in a bottle. Helps avoid tearing something down and fixing it correctly. Outside of that, I have never observed a need to supplement my oil. Buy good quality oil that meets the spec for your application. You shouldn't need to improve it. Otherwise, you have $h!t oil or $h!t equipment. Everyone wants to take a pill to feel better, or lose weight, instead of eating right and working out. Oil additives fit the same mold.

The lucas oil stabilizer is not snake oil... it does exactly what its advertised to do & nothing more, its not a zddp or other additives product, its made to thicken the oil somewhat but more so it makes it "sticky" or cling to parts which does improve lubrication qualities for all kinds of engines from cars/trucks to small engine equipment. I use it in my older lawn mower & it definitely reduces oil burning & consumption.

Im sure everyone has seen that lucas display on the counter at parts stores, where you turn the handle to rotate the gears, its easy to see how it clings to the gear teeth & will climb up to the top of a series of gears compared to oil without lucas that barely climbs up 1 or 2 gears. It does what its advertised to do.

That's actually interesting. I have lots of 2 stroke powersports here. Sleds Bikes RC Planes etc. So always a couple gallons of Opti2 on my shelf

That would increase parasitic drag significantly right? We put wipers on crankshafts to reduce this. A worn out lawnmower is another thing obviously.

Possibly. Significantly? Probably not. Doubt its even measurable on a dyno at the right ratio.

Its only supposed to be added at a diluted rate, I doubt the proper amount would create much drag on the system, heck just trying to turn the pump to prime an engine shows how much parasitic drag there is in an oil system. Guys running 20/50 oil in their street tolerance or stock engines creates more drag than a little bit of lucas or STP IMO.

That's referred to in the industry as climbing lube. There are a few ring gear companies that recommend that type of lube when building rear ends and when I get it from them, if I remember right it always comes in a moroso bottle. I'll have to check on that but the point I'm getting at is that unless someone is aware of another, Lucas is the only other gear oil I'm aware of that sells the climbing gear lube. Ive used that stuff in rear end builds for many years. Many years ago in the 80's I seem to recall it coming in kendle bottles

I run Lucas Oil Stabilizer with 10w-30 oil and STP for this valvetrain. I want sticky here.

https://youtu.be/kuCSJbVflyQ?si=DGMC5M6B1Fibpi2W
I pulled the check ball out of the lash adjuster as I was testing something else.

I knew posting this would create some controversy. Advertising is a powerful tool and it works the same as the propaganda our government puts out, and most people eat it up like ice cream. Every word I said about Lucas is true. You can call me a liar but I speak the truth. It's a lot easier to fool someone than it is to convince them they are wrong. Heck if you have been doing something for 50 years there is no way it was a waste of time or money, right?

I remember Slick50, Prolong, ZMAX, and STP (many years ago). No thanks. My regular oil changes are doing just fine. Sorry, I don't buy the sticky climbing oil theory. Their little display. What's in the comparison side? Gold colored piss water? Who knows? The only oil I ever noticed poor performance from was Pennzoil. I used it when I first started driving. Probably advertising! Hmm... The oil pressure would drop A LOT when warmed up. I switched to Quaker State. It was much better. Then I found out they were bought by Pennzoil. No thanks. Switched to Valvoline. Have no complaints. A Shell Oil engineer talked to us when I was in A&P school. He said to look on the back of the oil container. See what API standards it has met. Go with that. https://www.api.org/products-and-ser...s#tab-gasoline

Have you ever disassembled a engine that ran Lucas ? I have, you can feel a sticky film on everything. It works. Does it dilute the oil, sure. Does it make the oil not last quite as long, sure.
But it does help a great deal with dry starts. Where we are told most of your wear comes from.
I have used it on my Briggs lawn mower I bought in 94.
It still runs on the first pull and has went though 4 decks that rutsed out.
It helps out small engines a great deal IMO.

I have not to my knowledge. What do the engines look like, that you have disassembled, that didn't use Lucas? I have a Troybilt walk behind that's 20 years old. Still runs perfectly and doesn't smoke. Start right up every time. Just run straight 30w. Ever try to get straight 30w off of your hands? Try to wipe 20w50 off of your hand. Pretty damn sticky to me! :) I've probably saved enough money, not buying an additive every year, to buy a new engine. Or at least parts to rebuild it.

I remember Slick 50. I used to work at a mower shop that sold Slick50. We did and unscientific test using Slick 50 and regular motor oil. I don't remember the details but we ended up running the engines until they seized and Slick 50 was the definite looser.

We used to use and sell Lucas Racing oil. Never had an issue with it until we learned that the bearings in roller lifters and rocker arms along with roller cam bearings require a certain amount of Zinc to live a full life. I had a conversation with a Lucas engineer and he said their racing oil required a Zinc additive to make the roller bearings happy. During the conversation Valvoline ZR-1 was mentioned. Not only did the ZR-1 have enough Zinc the Lucas engineer stated the VR-1 was an excellent oil and their racing oil required an additive to be considered comparable.

Another concern is what formula was good yesterday may not be good today and rumors make it impossible to know what has changed. I heard a second hand story that convinced me STP did something positive. The problem is the story is forty plus years old. I doubt the same STP formula exists today.

Remember when folks were paying up big dollars for GM posi lube because the original formula contained Whale oil and was the only stuff that worked well. I sold all I had and my posi unit has never chattered once using an alternative additive.

I enjoy reading folks opinions and value the source that helped form the opinion. Keep doing whatever is working for you. It can't be that far wrong if you're happy with it.

Years ago a buddy was sponsored by Prolong. I figured he might have an "in" as to whether that additive did anything worthwhile. I asked him several times and always received the same answer... "I'll give you a bottle they gave me a whole bunch of the stuff".


Btw ..... Who makes the best car stereo, Pioneer, Marantz, Kenwood etc. ;)

Obviously Pioneer

Im not calling you a liar, just stating some facts of what lucas stabilizer advertises and does, how is that snake oil if it does what its intended to do? Ive used it for 25+ years & it does exactly what myself & many others have seen it do.
I think your last statement applies to you too, you "think" lucas is snake oil based on an anecdotal comment from the alleged chemist that formulates their racing oil but doesnt make the stabilizer and most likely has never actually tested it... kinda hard to convince you that your subjective opinion might be wrong, right?

I highly doubt the lucas display has gold colored piss water on the other side or is doing anything deceptive, thats not a very scientific way to try & dispel something by making up a far fetched imaginary scenario.

Penzoil is excellent oil based on all the VOA's (virgin oil analysis) Ive seen in the last ~20 years... when did you use it, 40-50 years ago when you first started driving? I have used penzoil off & on since 30 some years ago with no signs of what you mentioned and have used it in recent years with zero negative issues, about to do a change on my daily with it in a couple weeks, will report back if my oil psi drops A LOT or at all.

Penzoil meets the same API specs as any other oil, aside from some specialty oils all name brand modern oils meet the same API standards as they are updated. Based on the Shell engineers comments, penzoil or any other oil is OK to use because it meets the API standards...

HAH! Pual’s comments now reminds me of the spoof Slick50 advertisement video my Dad, my brother and I did. Dad was the commentator, he gave the used car salesman slick50 pitch, reading all the things it said it would do off the label. We filmed him pouring it into the completely shot small block engine in our 71 Chevelle. When he was about finished pouring the Slick50 in I remember he got a scissor’s out of his pocket and got it to stop pouring by cutting the flow off with the scissors. Completely caught us off guard, was all we could do to keep from laughing. We took the car out to the highway, filming a drag racing pass for a “before” shot. I was driving, I did a neutral drop from about 4000 RPM. The car had straight pipes and a small cam, it sounded and looked tough at that point. But after I dropped it into first from N it spun the tires about 5 ft and pulled it to it’s knees and slowly took off. :).

The after video was to show how well it works was suppose to be with the new engine… Good intentions that never happened.

We all know the Pioneer stereo with the Kenwood speaker sounded the best. The Kraco amp did wonders to. LOL

:D Sparkomatic Rocks!!:second:

Obviously I was exaggerating about gold colored piss water to make a point. That we don't know what their display is really comparing. Anyone that's impressed by that display can do so freely. That display proves nothing to me. Good oil should have sufficient film strength inherent to it's design. That's my belief. How well does "sticky" oil drain back to the crankcase? That's another concern I have with the theory. How does it affect the detergent action of the oil? IDK. I'll start shopping for additives the day I see a clear performance deficiency with oil straight out of the container. The stuff is expensive enough to start with.

I started driving 40 years ago. I agree that Penzzoil may be completely different now. The specs were lesser back then compared to other brands. I haven't checked lately. But, back then, some oils met higher standards than others. So there was a clear linkage between my observations and the API rating.

Always been a fan of Kenwood products. Have their 6x9's in the GTO. They sound great! Had Pioneer Supertuners back in the day though. Still have one on the shelf. Alpine is top notch...

Although different view points were expressed and a controversial topic everyone has been respectful of others. We have great people on this board. Personally I believe Lake did a good job of scientifically evaluating some of the more popular oil additives. I wonder what would have happened if they put STP in the Lucas climbing oil contraption at auto parts stores. Would it have surpassed the Lucas stabilizer in the demo? I would be willing to bet that contraption that Lucas placed in literally thousands of auto part stores sold millions worth of the stabilizer. You have to admit that was a pure genius idea. I think STP had a TV commercial where you dip a screwdriver in STP then try to hold on to the tip without it slipping out. Does anyone remember that commercial about 50 or so years ago. I can remember doing just that, I remember STP passed the test and I couldn't hold the screwdriver. I was a believer in STP after that. My cousin had a Ford Falcon and his transmission was slipping. I poured in a can of STP into my cousins Falcon's automatic transmission. I don't remember if it helped or not we were kids we had fun that was over 50 years ago.

A long time ago, I was in a parts store. A guy who had obviously never changed his oil before was asking for help. He asked for the cheapest filter that they had. He asked for the cheapest oil that they had. Then he spotted the Slick 50 display and asked whether it was any good. The counter sales guy said "we sell alot of it and nobody has ever brought any back". The uninformed buyer was impressed and bought a bottle of it.....after picking the cheapest junk oil and filter.

Eric

Btw ..... Who makes the best car stereo, Pioneer, Marantz, Kenwood etc.

Had a Pioneer Super Tuner with cassette back in the day. Still have it.
I no longer think a stereo belongs in a hot rod. I would rather listen to a good exhaust note and listen to music at home on a quality stereo. When I listen to music, that’s what I’m doing, it’s not a background distraction.

Also used STP back in the day as well.

Learned something there (Science, Technology, Performance). Might have forgotten it though. Ha

I recently removed my old Supertuner and got my AM radio filled with AM/FM and Bluetooth. The thing cranks! :music:

There is a huge difference in the stickiness of oil with Lucas in it and oil without.
If you ever ran it you would know.
Even the distributor had a noticeable film on it when I removed it.
A quart of it will get you at least 7 oil changes in a lawn mower so cost is little.
I have, to my knowledge the longest lasting Pontiac bracket 455 I know of, we are talking about 30 years of beating on a engine with original pistons and crank, 1 rod change, 3 rod bearing changes and 2 main bearing changes with Lucas in the crankcase.
When I went to a roller cam the only thing on that cam was Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Soaked the lifters in oil and dipped them in Lucas.
What did it prove, that it did what it was intended to do.
But its not snake oil. It actually has a purpose. Particularity on keeping some old smoker engine alive.
But I would not run it on a 8000 RPM engine either.
Thad said, I just bought a case of this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJPT1T4...roduct_details

And it will get nothing but whats in the bottle.
BTW, Shaffers does make their own additive. Its called Micron Molly and I bought some. But the oil I bought from them will not get it, already has it. I called their oil engineer and was told their already has it and would have too much.

Snake oil or not I use Lucas oil additive and their fuel treatment and will continue to do so. I don't know jack crap about how well the oil additive works, but for sure the fuel additive improves engine performance slightly with a slight increase in fuel economy. I've logged MPG's on several occassions with and without it plus ZERO problems with anything in the fuel systems of the vehicles and equipment I use it in.

With the oil additive in vehicle engines I give them a couple of ounces at each oil change. It mixes thoroughly with the oil but does it help with lubrication and protectiong vital oil lubricated components, I have no idea.

Just like the billion dollar supplement industry selling all sort of products to make you healthier, stronger, thinner, live longer and a sexual Tyrannosaurus in the bedroom....does any of that crap work? Who knows, all the advertising and testimonials tell you it does. You'll NEVER get a good answer or any accurate study on the vast majority of it, and the for the most part the ONLY folks making all those claims/telling you how good it all is are the ones selling it!.......FWIW......

Something else it helps in with these classic cars, since we all pretty much have ethanol fuels now, is it appears to me to keep corrosion in the fuel system at bay.
Like I've mentioned I've used it for 25 years or so in all the classic cars, a couple of them daily driven, some sit for periods of time, but all of them have never had a single issue with the fuel system. I've had carbs apart for one reason or another, jetting, playing with things, and they always looks spotless inside, no white corrosion or anything of the sort. My fuel filters look great (cleanable filters with mesh screens) and I seem to get decades of use out of fuel pumps now both mechanical and electrical (in tank) setups. The 2 cycle oil puts lubricity back into the fuel and that's a good thing. That's what leaded fuels used to do.

So lots of benefits other than just lubricating the top of the engine.

Engine oils are not all the same just because they meet the same API standards. If they use a less robust stock oil they will need to add more additives to pass the multiple tests to meet the API standards. The same if they start out using a better grade stock less additives need to be added. Most believe by starting off with a higher quality grade stock the end result will be better. I think most of us understand that sponsorship of an oil or other products for that matter is in no way an endorsement of the product. When I select an oil for performance use I try to choose one that I am sure is popular with racers, I mean they actually use the stuff not endorse it. Most of us have no idea what the big time racers actually use. The oil that my brother in law formulates for Childress Racing is highly propriety. It's not sold to any other race team and not to the general public. Lucas gives them the oil for free and it's constantly under development. New formulas are continually tested on their million dollar dynos to see if there is any improvement in HP and wear characteristics. NASCAR uses the thinnest oil that will keep the engine alive for the duration of the race. I have been to the Childress facility twice with my bother in law. The first time I was given a very detailed tour of their engine building facility and I saw some things that I would not share with the public. I can tell you I was like a kid in a candy store getting a personal tour by some of the top engineers in the racing business. I even got to watch dyno testing on their million dollar dynos. The dynos are serious business. The engine can be running at 8,000 RPM and with a flip of the switch the engine shuts off then the dyno is turning the engine and at the same RPM. Now the dyno is measuring the drag of the engine at full operating temperature and at any RPM. At a flip of the switch this can switch back to the engine turning the dyno and it happens instantly. Pretty impressive stuff.