Transmission install problem
 

I’m at my wits end!!! I can’t get my Muncie 4 speed installed. I used 3 guide bolts, plastic alignment tool, and tried every bit of advice I could find on forums. Used a strap to depress the clutch, chamfered the end of the splines on the input shaft. Chamfering the input splines helped me to get it on further, but I can’t get the last 5/8”. I suspect it’s not going in the pilot bearing. I guess I’ll have to pull it back out and chamfer the very end of the input shaft. I don’t want to do that! It was too hard to get in this far.
Please give me some advice.!!!!!’

I had the same problem once, for the first time in my life I used a pilot bearing instead of a bushing. Went back to the bushing. Hope it’s an easy fix.


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I never use the plastic tool,always use a input shaft from a broken trans,way more exact than the plastic IMO.Tom

Both of the above are the keys to a curseless install.

That last 5/8” is pretty much the depth of the pilot bushing which unfortunately has likely come apart.

Thanks guys, I will buy a new pilot bearing, take it apart and start over,

Slide the new pilot bearing over the trans input shaft before you install it.

I refuse to "align" the clutch disc using a plastic alignment tool. I refuse to "align" the clutch disc using a metal tool including an old input shaft.

I align the disc BY EYE. ONE eye. Buy a Pirate patch if you need to. When the splines of the disc are equal-distant around the pilot bushing, you're good-to-go.

The first clutch i ever put in on a driveway in the hot summer day about 15 years before the internet i didn't even know about alignment tools, I actually felt with my finger tips the edge of the clutch disk and pressure plate for alignment and also i learned to lock the trans in 2 different gears so when stabbing wiggling rotating the trans you get a quick spline align

Also is there an old or new pilot bearing in there now?
A new one out of basic curiosity i would of slipped on the input shaft and old one should fit just like prior useage

You have plenty of good advice in this thread. I would just add that the transmission needs to slide all the way in to the face of the bellhousing easily, especially with the threaded rod guides you have in there. DO NOT use nuts or the mounting bolts to "pull it in" the remaining amount. That always ends badly. Mistakes from my youth. First sign you made a mistake, it will be hard or impossible to get into reverse with the engine running. Good luck.

I went thru this with mine. Spent 20 dollars on a metal tool from Amazon and it went right in.

You have the transmission in far enough now so this is probably not your problem but always try the clutch disc on the input shaft before installing it. I had one at work that was the correct number of splines but was for a metric trans. I forced the transmission in and pushed the center out of the clutch disc. On my own transmission I broke an ear off trying to pull it into place with the bolts. You learn by your mistakes.

I've put in hundreds of manual transmissions in everything that comes with a clutch. Test fit all your parts on the input shaft before installing them on the flywheel. That includes pilot bearing, clutch disc, and make sure the throwout bearing is the correct one as far as height/ GM has at least 3 choices depending upon what pressure plate you use.

It isn't at all far fetched for a clutch kit to have the wrong throwout bearing packaged, keeping the transmission from going all the way into the bellhousing. I've seen that scenario a couple times over the years.

I always put a light coating of grease on the input shaft and throwout collar, these parts need a little lubrication when assembled as putting it together dry will promote wear as time goes on. Just a light coating so it doesn't fly into the clutch parts, but will assist in sliding the parts together, and keeping wear at a minimum.

I've also aligned parts by eye, with a old metal input shaft, the new plastic tools that come with most kits, as well as wooden alignment tools, before plastic was a thing. The important part is making sure the alignment tool slides in and out like butter before attemting to install the transmission.

I never let the weight of the clutch disc hang on the tool when tightening the pressure plate. I support the alignment tool with one hand as I tighten the pressure plate. On tough installs, a couple pilot bolts (transmission bolts with the heads removed) are sometimes worth their weight in gold as wrestling the weight of a transmission over your head gets tiring quickly.

Sometimes when all else fails have someone else depress the clutch pedal as you wiggle the transmission that last little bit.

Over 50 years of experience of installing manual transmissions into trucks cars etc. Those are my helpful hints, I hope one of them is helpful to you.

:thumbup:

like this?

anytime you wanna slide a shaft into something tight, you gotta grease it.

Are either the engine or bellhousing new? If so did you check the runout of the crank to bellhousing? Your dowel pins could be a little off and it won't line up right keeping you from going in all the way. Also make sure your pilot bushing is fully seated and not cocked.

I was having a problem getting my TKO bolted to my engine, luckily both were on the floor. The pilot bushing would fit over the input shaft until it was installed in the crank, the press fit shrunk the ID. I don't remember the before/after numbers but it definitely wasn't going together. I opened it up a couple thousandths with a Dremel and sanding drum.

This is exactly what my issue was when I had the same problem.

Sometimes there is play in the plastic alignment shaft and it “droops” down some when tightening the pressure plate. I have to hold up the plastic alignment tool with a little pressure and then tighten the pressure plate.

Did you use a 7109 pilot bearing? I have been in the transmission business for almost 50 years. I have used all kinds of alignment tools with great success, but I prefer an input shaft.

Sirrotica: "Sometimes when all else fails have someone else depress the clutch pedal as you wiggle the transmission that last little bit"
This too has worked for me in the past.

Make sure the trans front bearing retainer fits in the opening of the bellhousing.

Otherwise, everything else has been covered above.


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The transmission was just in there. We Know it fits. The piolet bearing Is a Timken I ordered from Rock Auto Its been in about a year. I am not putting in the cheep one that came in the kit. I Know this one works. I checked it. It was fine. I am ready to give up on the bearing and go with a bushing. What about rounding the first 1/8" of pilot shaft. To slip right in. I am Gonna wrestle with it some more now.

Thanks You people are great. I have never had such a wealth of knowledge available.

If using a bushing, be sure it's not a cheap magnetic one. You want bronze or brass. The last time I installed a brass bushing in my old Chevy, the ID of the bushing decreased just enough by driving it in place that the input shaft would not fit. I had to take emery cloth on a dowel and lightly ream the bushing until I got a perfect fit. Luckily I did this before I had the engine and trans installed in the car. Never had an issue with a Pontiac using the actual steel bearing. But yeah, using a real input shaft helps, and having a helper push the clutch in while stabbing the trans the last little bit usually works.