New to the cool kids club will need help
 

So I picked up a 1972 Pontiac ventura 2 with a 1968 pontiac 350 HO engine Installed..it is not completed but the engine has the Edelbrock Torker (pontiac] intake manifold and came with a edelbrock 1806s carb..I am a motorcycle mechanic by trade so I know how turn wrenches but am new to the car scene and will undoubtedly need advice with this car to get it on the road..I have just started this project and am at the sorting parts and figuring out what they are stages, I guess what I'm asking is will the Intake manifold and carb Combo work?

Will the combo work? Yes. Is it an optimal combination for a 1968 350 HO? That's debatable.

The original Torker is kind of a weird manifold that never really worked as it was designed to and the Edelbrock carbs with their lack of adjustment sometimes are not well suited to many Pontiac engines.

Do you know anything about the bottom end? Other than the replacement intake and carburetor, does the engine retain it's #18 heads with a factory rotating assembly and cam?

It does retain the #18 heads the rest is unknown at this point..I was Givin limited info on the car other than it was an in process build that I basically have to finish

Some numbers from passenger side below heads

Pic of heads

A 1968 350HO with the WK engine code would be for a manual transmission car and should have come with an 067 cam.

If the engine runs good, doesn't smoke and makes good oil pressure, I'd probably run it as is while you get the rest of the car sorted. The fact that you have the AVS carb does give you some more adjustability, specifically the secondary air door opening rate.

I would get yourself a calibration kit for the carb as well as doing a basic tune-up. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1840

Get yourself some new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and spend a Saturday optimizing what you've got. Looks like a fun project!

Awesome thanks alot for the info..it's quite the project no doubt but I am determined.

That torquer 1 intake must go!!!
They where terribly mis named by Edelbrock to to point where you could argue that it was criminal!

More Pontiacs where slowed down by the use of that intake back when they introduced that then you could imagine!

The only motors they helped out in terms of street performance or street strip where 455 CID motors and even then the added power over a stock iron intake did not take place until 4200 rpm was attained.

So ditch that piece of crap and get a stock iron intake or see if you can turn up a used duel plane Edelbrock performer.

I see it’s got a remote oil filter.

If it’s still hooked up I would re-plumb it the other way ( not upside down ) even if you have your mount it with a tad longer lines to get it mounted to the wheel well.

By the way, I like that color Green because you don’t see it much on A body’s since it was seen more on F body’s for some reason.

Looks like a fun project.
 

In addition to steve25's advice to remount the oil filter right-side-up, I'd offer my advice to toss that Fram filter in the nearest garbage can. They've got a history of collapsing internally under pressure and have been the cause of more engine failures than you can count.

And you need the filter oriented correctly or it could drain all your oil into the pan when you turn the engine off. That's not a good thing.

Get a decent filter from Wix or NAPA or Baldwin to replace it. I'd guess that the filter base probably does NOT use a normal Pontiac-spec filter, so cross-reference the Fram number to purchase a replacement. Many of those remote bases fit either Chevrolet or Ford-style filters.

I can also confirm that the Torker is not an optimal intake for a 350cid engine.

ANY factory cast-iron quadrajet intake from 1968-1972 will work with your heads and will be much more driveable and make more usable 'torque' on your engine than that 'Torker' intake ever will.

If you prefer the aluminum intake idea, a Holley Street Dominator works really well or the Edelbrock Performer will do the job.

Have fun!

Sounds like a fun project. Having those #18 heads and a true HO engine is rare these days. So it has the 067 cam. What is the main difference between the 066 and 067 cam?

Basically the 067 cam had 7 more degrees of exh duration and 1 degree less in overlap, and both had the same .406 valve lift.
So the 067 hung in there a little better above 4500 rpm with the stock exh manifolds.

In addition to the extra 7* of duration, the 067 also had the cam retarded 7* more than the 066. That worked so well for Pontiac that in 1978 for the 220HP 400s they used 067 grind again and retarded it another 5*, retarded 12* from a 066.

Thanks everyone for the great advice, the oil filter will get rerouted and flipped over for sure as for the intake manifold I will eventually change it but atm I wanna get this thing back on the road asap shake it down the rest of the summer and get a new intake in the winter months..also I love the colors of it!! My first muscle car btw

Torker/Holley
 

Torker 1 with 600 vac Holley and headers turned my 350 from 15.8 sec into a 15.7 sec screamer in the 1/4. :D

A torquer 1 intake killed my low end torque on a street geared 455 ,, installed a factory intake and you’d thought it had gained 100 hp. That’s intake belongs no where near a 350. A performer intake or stock iron would be perfect.

Seems like the 066 is better for a street 350 in my opinion.

I've always found that the T I Torker isn't suitable for any street driven car. Edelbrock stumbled with this intake during development, and it took them forever to get it to market, they never however got it right before release. The main thing is naming it a "Torker" when all it accomplishes is a low end loss of torque.

The rear half of the manifold does work, and that is substantiated by S/S racers cutting 2 back halves and welding them back together. If you want to have a 50% efficient manifold, they got you covered.

I screwed around with one on a 428 circle track engine modifying it with a divider plate etc. and never got any better results than a good dual plane, or a Holley street dominator. If you want a good single plane street intake, the HSD is a much better choice. I've never tried the T II intake, so I can't comment, but from documented write ups it is a butt load better than the T I. If the T I was a success, there would be no need, nor market for a T II intake.

Holley made their single plane intake much better that Edelbrocks first attempt at a Pontiac single plane. Like the adage that you don't hit a home run every time you step up to the plate, this was Edelbrocks strike out.

You can take a good running street engine and swap a TI, and make it run like a turd. I have seen it over and over where you lose performance, especially low end by swapping a TI over a stock factory cast iron engine.

The T I should probably be relegated to a lightweight doorstop, or a conversational starter for a coffee table. If you have 2 of them you could cut and splice them together to make a S/S intake for 7000 RPM drag engine.

The engineers at Pontiac made a very good cast iron intake, the aftermarkets attempts at making better intakes that showed a night and day difference in performance haven't been all that inspiring, especially for street engines. It's tough to beat the Pontiac intake, except for the weight factor.

:2cents:

350/413 stroker with 9.3 CR
6X-4 Heads
Comp XE276HR w/1.5 rockers
800cfm Q-Jet
442 LB FT@4300
453HP@5600

I'm happy with my port matched Torker-I. Give it a chance with a good carb.
Haven't had a chance to run it down the strip yet, but with a 2600 stall converter and 3.23 gears it will spin the tires all the way through 1st gear. Well, I should say it would until the intermediate sprag detonatated in the transmission. :(

With all the truly horrible factory intake manifolds produced by other manufacturers, I can see the need for aftermarket solutions/improvements. As mentioned, Pontiac was not among them. Their factory dual plane intakes were excellent, an "air gap" design and a semi-high rise. Reinventing the wheel for a Pontiac dual plane was a fool's errand IMO. Other than a few lbs. nothing to be gained. And millions were produced and still inexpensive.

I ran a T2 intake for quite a while. Good intake for a car with mild modifications . Port’s aren’t huge so it still had good low end.

I haven't run one on a smaller inch Pontiac, but I agree this is a good manifold. I've had it in stock form on a mild 455 and a wild 455 now with just a port match to 310cfm KRE Dports. It makes torque everywhere.

Unless something bigger is needed, I recommend the TII for anybody that is running any sort of throttle body injection system. I observed much better fuel distribution with the TII vs a dual plane manifold.

I wouldn't be afraid of a TII on a 350 either.

I still think for right now while the OP is working on the car and sorting it, I would at least try the combination that he currently has. Not because it's the best combination, but because the car probably needs money elsewhere if the engine is otherwise running decent.

Unless the specs I have are wrong. It looks like while they have the same intake lobe, the 066 has the ICL 6 degree adanvced compared to the 067.

Stan

Yes, I did not post up the full details like others have since I was out at a cruse and just going by memory.

I've been trying to figure out what transmission is hooked up this engine, my googlins have come up with little info..can anyone help me figure it out with these pictures? It is floor shift btw and feels like it is also a 3 speed.

Ps. Engine is a 68' "WK" so it originally came with a manual trans if my research served me right?

It looks like you have a 1972 M38 3 speed Pontiac automatic (Turbo 350). I have one from 1971. These can be identified by the shape of the pan.

She is starting to look like a car again! Still needs a few odds and ends but lots closer to hearing it run for the first time in who knows how long, I am very excited!

This Ventura was originally a column shift, one of the previous owners had almost completed a floor shift conversion, I got to the point of seeing if this thing would turn over..lights/blinkers/wipers/blower motor/dash lights all working after I replaced the glass fuses and cleaned up the fuse box..all but the starter, I have no cranking or clicking of any kind when turning the key, now I've had the steering wheel off a couple times and made sure everything was fine there. My question is concerning the neutral safety switch, it being a column swapped over to a floor shift..I don't think they (previous owner) got to that point of wiring a new switch for the floor shifter, I think maybe that's why it won't crank..the neutral safety switch..?

Ps. I've named the car "Shikaka"

Nate, why don’t you start your own fresh post on your no crank issue instead of hi hacking this one.

Sorry bud idk what I'm doing, I'm new here and to the whole pontiac scene, I started this post didn't I?

Sounds like the neutral safety isn’t wired up yet. It can be on the tranny like it was from the factory or wired to an aftermarket shifter.

Your thread here is as good a place as any to ask questions for getting your new ride on the road.

Thanks, I have looked underneath the car and it appears there is a loose wire coming from where the speedo cable comes out of the trans, about 4 inches long..I am going to take the floor shift console off tonight after work and see what I find..there is still the oem neutral safety switch attached underneath the dash around the steering column aswell..

I need to apologize, for some darn reason I thought you did not start this string of post.

All good man, I was just really hoping I wasn't doing something to make anyone angry, I apologize for my future questions to you guys I know some may seem pretty straight forward but I am struggling with this car and need to ask people who know more than I.

So I took the cover off of the floor shifter and there are no micro switches or wiring anywhere near it, crawled underneath and same thing no switches or wires..now the old column shift neutral safety switch is still there and all plugged in aswell..I'm pretty confused as to what to do..I'll take some pictures here shortly and do a show and tell 😀

It sounds like you are possibly missing the back drive linkage. This linkage is attached to the shifter, sometimes via a cable, to a rod that attached to an arm on the column. This is what acts as the reverse lock out, and the switching arm for the neutral safety switch.

I'm not sure about your car specifically, but in many instances, when headers are installed, the back drive linkage is in the way and must be removed. When that occurs you must jump the NSS. This will allow the car to start, but the NSS is ineffective and will allow the car to start in any gear.

This all seems plausible considering you know the car was being changed from a column to floor shift. You should be able to get the proper back drive linkage for the car from any of the numerous restoration parts dealers.

The floor shifter top and bottom also the loose wire coming from my trans, I think the loose wire from trans is for cruise?

This is what you need to get working for the neutral switch.
The purple wire(s) are what go to the starter from the inside switch.
Since the original column is swapped, probably no back drive linkage (as was said).

Most when using a different shifter or with headers (as said) makeshift a switch on the new shifter using the 2 purple wires.

But you need to know there is a lot of current going through it when cranking.
Some use a relay from shifter micro switch to run the power to the starter.

The reverse light will not work either (or on all the time if in right position) when the back drive linkage is gone.
(needs another switch setup)


:)

You just missed an all out brawl of a thread over P350s lol.

I agree with others, I would pick up a standard pontiac intake over that Torker 1. Torker IIs have their supporters, but I don't know if I've ever heard anyone go to bat for the first version. I also don't like edelbrock carbs, but plenty of others do.

Other than swapping the intake, I would run it if it runs. If you decide you need more grunt later, build a bigger engine. But do it on the side while you have a running driving car.

I would loop the purple wirs to fire it up. You fix that later.
We want to here it run baby. LOL

GT

I'm doing this tonight, idk how long it's been since this thing has been ran..I've worked on it everyday since memorial day

I'll probably get flamed for this, but honestly, the bypassed NSS is only an issue if you let it be one. The NSS in my 69 bird and my wife's former 72 Chevelle both came to us this way. I'm diligent about making sure the car is in park/neutral before I try to start my car and I've never had a mishap.

There's of course a reason those are there and having them completely functional is best practice, but sometimes...safety third.

No flaming here. My race cars were direct wired to start with an automatic transmission in gear, but it was part of my safety program for use on a dirt track.

If the car spun out, or was involved in an incident that required you to get out of the way of the pack of cars coming at you, you want to get it started immediately and get out of the way. No need to put it back in neutral before hitting the start button, then all you need to do is mash the gas to get off the track to not become a sitting duck.

If it's a hobby car, or race car and typically only has one driver the neutral safety switch isn't as critical as a car that is used as a form of transportation, and could have multiple drivers unaware of the deleted safety switch.

Yeah I'll be the only one driving it, it needs to get on the road asap, then over the winter I can dink around with the minor details, just needs a good shake down..I've yet to here it run, also only has open headers atm

I have though relocated the remote oil filter, wire wheeled entire underside of the car and discovered a bunch of new parts that appear to have never been used like fuel lines/gas tank/front disk brakes/thermostat etc. Etc. It appears to me that someone was putting it together then just stopped, so with limited history known about the car I've done my best to finish the build..I knew what I was getting into but idc

Shikaka will be on the road again before summers end!!

So after further inspection, I have low voltage at the switch..I am going to remove and clean all harness plugs and grounds on the car starting tonight, all the wiring appears to be original and non molested besides the radio wires, gonna be a long night and my wife's gonna hate me but Shikaka don't give a damn..thanks to everyone who has given this motorcycle mechanic help so far, gonna be a long road traveled.

She is alittle rough..these are gonna be the "before" pics 👍

Welcome! Cool car, just the way I like them!

I love your mentality to get it running and drivable.

I've used an add-on NSS:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...RoCbR8QAvD_BwE

Requires a little bit of wire routing. I have that setup laying around in a box somewhere, never had a problem with it.

But with regards to having no NSS, I installed a set of gauges at the console on my 67 FB, with the NSS jumped out. During the install I had the shifter in low to get it out of the way. Pleased with my install, I touched it over to see things work, and it launched the car into my workbench. I am fortunate it didn't plow through the wall into the laundry room. So as long as you don't do dumb stuff...:o

The shifter I have now has the NSS at the shifter. I've also been checked for a working NSS at drag strip tech inspects, so there's that.

Run that 350!!!!

That intake is whacked, but works for the moment. If you like having a little elevation to your intake: I use something like these, when they were branded with a name like "Crosswind" or something.
https://www.speedmaster79.com/Pontia...nifold-Satin_2
It's a knock off of the Performer RPM. Dual plane, dual pattern for your choice of carb, fits better than the Performer RPM, eliminates the exhaust crossover, keeps your carb cooler, fits with old/late head intake gaskets (IIRC), and makes a nice place under the intake to route wiring/vacuum hoses. Of course, if you care about Qjets and chokes and stuff, it might not be a best choice.;)

I hate cast iron intakes. If I wanted to pump iron, there are gyms and prisons for that.:p

I got her running, and drove it for the first time! With open headers this thing is loud af..scared me when it first popped, I was scared to drive it knowing it's been years since it's seen the road, first thing I noticed was how effortless the power steering is, then the brakes feel a little weird but that could be it's just an old car, currently don't have a temp gauge installed but I feel like it got hot fast, my dad lives just a few miles away and that's all it took to feel like it was almost over heating, maybe it just needs run time to loosen some stuff up..but man what a great feeling to hear it run, and it's throttle response is snappy the second I touch the throttle she Wicks right up!! Fast revs, I'm going to take her out of the shed soon and take proper pics to show ya all

Starting the dialing in process, she looks better outside

Looks great!

Cool car. Even cooler farm.