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Newbie with questions
Having wanted a classic car all my life I finally jumped in and picked up a '55 Star Chief. I can tell there are a few things I need to do before it'll run properly, and I expect there are a few things I don't know I need to do as well. Am I in the right place to ask really basic questions as a beginner, and get advice on doing some of the work? If not, just point me in the right direction and I'll see myself out.
Thanks in advance! |
We all start at one time or another with "Basic questions"
It would help if you gave some of your automotive background first. Are you familiar with older non computer cars? But welcome aboard. Hundreds of years of Pontiac experience here and some, with '55 Star Chiefs |
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My grandfather was the 'car guy' when I was growing up, and I was privileged to help him out with some projects - all modern cars regrettably, as he didn't hang onto any of his classics when he owned them. The most in-depth work I've ever done was to rebuild the front end of a collision-damaged 2003 Nissan Maxima. The engine and frame were fine, but everything in front of that (A/C condenser, radiator, bumper, etc) needed to go. So in that sense, my hands are dirty and I know my way around hand and basic power tools. Definitely wouldn't want to open up an engine or transmission, but willing to butt my nose in pretty much anywhere else. That said, I know next to nothing about the nuts and bolts of classics. I don't know whether I need to put lead substitute in the fuel, whether to use natural or synthetic oils... etc etc. All I know is that cars stopped being pretty sometime in the late 70s. |
The front suspension is way more complicated than a car from the 1960's. If you are careful you can fix any of it. The engine is fairly simple to work on. Don't fool with the auto trans. Find someone who is familiar with them. You can't find anything with a much simpler electrical system. If you should have any charging system problems replace everything with an internal regulator alternator. Brakes are simple drums with no self adjusters. Very easy to repair. Vacuum windshield wipers suck but do usually work. Star Chief might have electric ones. There is a nice kit to convert vacuum ones to electric that is very easy to install. Don't try to install large tires in the rear. They will fit if you can get them in but getting them into the wheel well is a bitch. Be careful trying to swap later parts. Most stuff from 1955-57 can be used but later stuff won't easily fit. The doors, glass and weatherstripping are the same as a 1955-57 Chevy. Rock Auto does have some parts and a good source is Ames Performance. Good luck and if you need help just ask.
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That's very helpful, Goatracer, I'm going to make notes of all that. A few follow-up questions for you (and some new questions later).
-Why is it that the suspension in a '55 is more complicated than one from the '60s? -What's the link for the vacuum-electric wiper conversion kit? -I've read that it may be advantageous to convert the drum brakes to disc brakes, and I already think I need a new master cylinder. Assuming I have to replace the master cylinder, is it worth the upgrade or should I stick with the drum system? I'm not planning to race this car or do anything high-performance with it, if that helps. And new questions: I want to install lap belts, does this require welding or is it something that can be done with hand tools? And where can I find a good kit to do this - Ames and RockAuto don't seem to have them. The car has sat for an unspecified amount of time in the previous owner's garage and the gas has probably turned to varnish. Advice on a complete drain and flush of the fuel system? Any "don't forget this"es or "try this product"s? |
Car does NOT have ball joints. As for wipers I will have to try to find it. If I do I'll post on here. Replacing the master cylinder with something else can be complicated. It is mounted under the floor. I never had the ambition to try to convert it to disc brakes. I suppose it would depend on how complete the kit is. I never felt the drum brakes stopped that bad to make it worth the effort to change them. For the master cylinder some people remove the defroster and mount a hanging pedal from the firewall. I didn't want to because in cooler fall weather I want the defroster. Just buy generic seat belts and drill hole in the floor to mount them. Install some kind of reinforcement under the floor. I usually use very LARGE washers. Ames has seat belts pn:PA206BA front and PA206BC rear but you can probably get them cheaper online. Don't try to start the engine before you remove and drain the tank. While you have the tank out remove the sending unit and replace the filter on the end of it. Pull the plugs, install new engine oil and filter, squirt some oil in the cylinders and then crank until you have oil pressure. If starter doesn't want to crank the engine remove starter and clean the contacts inside the starter and the solenoid. Reinstall the plugs and try to start. If it starts idle the engine at about 1200-1400 for a few minutes. Good luck.
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This is the place to get your answers. Very knowledgeable people here. There is also a Facebook group that can help with parts and questions. I am a member there' In addition to my 67 GTO I have a 1950 Pontiac Streamliner.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/150467135123404 |
I am on Fbook also. Be very CAREFUL on there. There is probably more misinformation on there than correct info. I have looked up information in Pontiac parts books and service manuals and posted for them only to have people tell me I am wrong. You will ask a question and 10 different people will give you 10 different answers and you won't which, if any, is correct. Also be careful buying parts. Lots of times they are way over priced. The rare and valuable part they are selling is neither rare nor valuable. Beware of scams. People that never send you anything or just junk. I have been taken a couple of times. There are good people on there just take your time and learn who they are before trusting anyone. Good luck with your car.
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Fluids are going to be the first major project along with testing out the electrical systems.
What type of engine oil should I use? It's got 78k miles, and according to the maintenance records that came with the car it's had 10, 20 and 30 in it at different times. Does natural or synthetic matter? And do I need special additives, like high zinc? Any recommendations on where to buy LED replacements for all the lights? I found superbrightleds.com, are they reputable/high quality or should I look elsewhere? Thanks, Fyrffytr, I hoped this would be a good place to ask questions. I poked around before making my account and everyone seemed helpful. |
I have always used 10-30 synthetic. Synthetic tends to leak more the conventional but oil is cheap and I prefer the synthetic. Why do you want to replace all the lights? Do you plan on doing a lot of night driving? The few LEDs that I have bought I just buy whatever is cheapest. Be careful. In some application they don't always work correctly. Directionals won't blink. Dash lights won't dim.
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Suggestion, forget about the upgrades for now. They are not needed for a car that doesn't run. Focus on the basics. Get it running and stopping with what it has and enjoy it for a while. Then move on to upgrades as you see needed. The stock brakes will work fine if properly maintained and adjusted. They won't be as good as disk brakes but they will be far easier to repair than installing disk brakes. Just drive it with a little extra caution and insure the emergency brake works.
I suggest you get familiar with my website, www.pontiacsafari.com. It has the Shop Manual and Body Manual (Fisher Body Service News) available online. You'll find much more interesting and useful information on the site. Get familiar with the '55 Shop Manual on the "Pontiac Garage" page. Learn how to do maintenance work there. That's where you start, maintenance, and you may have a long road ahead of you on doing just that, especially if you don't have much auto mechanical experience. Regarding relevant Facebook groups, the best to use is the "1955, 1956 Pontiac" group, https://www.facebook.com/groups/321200353272194. The group given by fyrffytr1 is okay but largely about pre-55 Pontiacs and a bit too "social" to suit me. There are knowledgeble people there but you need to be careful. Pay attention to good advice given by Goatracer1 above. For good answers on techincal issues, there is no better place than right here in this forum. I follow Facebook groups, but this is where I go for Tech advice. A couple of quick tips. Lug bolts on left side are left-handed and right side are right-handed. Assuming you have the automatic transmission, to put it in Park, turn engine off and put selector in R (Reverse) position. Check all rubber hoses, if they are old, they will need to be replaced. When you remove the gas tank, check it closely for possible leaks and damage. Some radiator shops will test and work on gas tanks. Check line going from tank to fuel pump. You should also drain the transmission and install new oil. Any idea how long it has been setting without being run? Do you know if the engine is stuck? Will it turn over using a socket with breaker bar on the crankshaft? Another place for parts is California Pontiac Restoration (CPR). They have a lot of same parts as Ames. You can get catalogs from both CPR and Ames. Or just get to know them online. 55 Starchief, nice car. I hope you get it back on the road. You will enjoy it once you do. |
A great source of information for all Tri-5 Pontiacs is Larry Gordon's Safari site:
https://www.pontiacsafari.com/ Don't be fooled about the depth and breadth of the Safari info; you will find mechanical info there (and more) relevant across the line. As for oil, I use Lucas Hot Rod & Classic 10-40 in my '63. Synthetic is fine, and I use Mobil 1 in my more modern cars, but tolerances being what they are, and the need for zinc in these older engines being what it is, I prefer an organic oil with high zinc content. (Back in the day - 40 years ago - I ran Valvoline 20-50 exclusively; I've found no need for that since the engine rebuild, and the 10-40 is definitely easier starting in cold weather.) Now, about that wiper motor... The electric motor was on option on my '56. Checking on '55.... It does not look like the electric wipers were offered for '55: https://www.pontiacsafari.com/55/Acc...esPamphlet.pdf Vacuum wipers should work well, but will slow down going uphill or under other periods of low engine vacuum (sounds funny, but that's a fact of life). There are some very knowledgeable people here (including Larry). Another piece of advice I'd give you is to collect as much sales and parts literature as you can, whether original or reprint (or perhaps better, in digital format). Another book I have which is quite handy is an interchange guide for Chevy, Pontiac, Olds, and Buick. Often the same NOS part with a non-Chevy part number can be much more expensive (or unobtainium) than a standard Chevy part which fits, connects, and works just the same. Anyway, welcome to the group. Please *do* ask questions and provide as much detail as possible (pics are always a plus). |
Larry, for heaven's sake... Couldn't you have waited to post until I finished lauding your site and you in *my* post? :D
LOL! |
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LOL (again)!
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I agree the best info you will get online will be here. If you join POCI their technical advisors are great. You will probably meet some of them on here and facebook also. As for the wiper conversion I got the one New Port Engineering sells. I used the motor kit and used the original linkage which on your car is actually cables and pullies.
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Now, the juicy details. Last night I finished going through all the papers that came with the car - and it was a gold mine. I have the original sales order - it was manufactured in May/June 1955 and sold in June for $3600 (taxes and fees not included). Also have the 1955 Pontiac sales brochure featuring the complete lineup for that year. Additionally, and what forms the bulk of the papers, is essentially the car's entire maintenance and service history, from 1959 to 2001 - mostly composed of receipts, work orders, and the owner's supplemental notes. Owner 1 had the car at least as late as 2009 (she had a 2009-2011 registration in the papers, but never put the '09 sticker on her plate). Side story. She got this car involved in a traffic accident in '94, against a brand new '95 Chevy S10 with less than 1k miles on it. A local Chevy dealership sent her a copy of the bill to repair the S10 - about $850. Her notes show that the Pontiac got its bumper repaired for $155. They don't make 'em like they used to. After '11...nothing. According to the traffic ticket she got for the collision, she was born in 1917, so already almost 80 by the time of her accident, and I assume she made it into her 90s. My guess is that the car was sold by her heirs to Owner 2. The second-to-last maintenance document I have, an invoice dated 25 Mar 2000, gives an odometer reading of 72845. In the past 25 years, therefore, the car has been driven less than 500 miles - current reading is 73103. So not only did Owner 1 quit driving in the 2000s, but Owner 2 did nothing with it either (he also had a Mustang Mach 1 and a Corvette Stingray, so I guess he preferred driving the higher-performance cars). Owner 2's death sent the Stingray to his nephew, and the Mustang and the Pontiac to his daughter, who liked the Mustang but didn't need the Pontiac (enter Myself, stage left). According to the daughter and her husband, Owner 2 would occasionally fire up the Pontiac's engine, and let it run for ten minutes in his garage, but he never drove it. He would back it into his driveway and then pull it back into the garage. No one knows when this car last made a journey of any distance. However, the good news - allegedly everything is in working order except the master brake cylinder (and a few smaller projects). Garage kept for basically its entire life. Repainted its original color in the late '80s. Interior reupholstered/recarpeted in the early '90s. I don't intend to turn the engine over until I get all the fluids changed - gas, engine oil, transmission oil. Any fluids I'm forgetting about? What transmission fluid does a Hydra-Matic take? Hope that's enough detail for Rachelsdad, and let me again express my gratitude for the help each of you has provided so far. |
Pictures would be great!
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Aw, shucks... ;)
Great history, and so rare to find these days (my '63 has been in the family since '65, and *I* don't have that much documented (note to self to start going through some older papers including some of Dad's receipts). Also, so glad that yours has been so well preserved over the years. Quick recommendation for the master rebuild: White Post Restorations in White Post, VA. Billy & the crew are absolutely fantastic to work with, and have tremendous expertise with TreadleVac units (assuming you have power brakes; I haven't read that part of your thread here closely). IAC, I can't say enough good about them. https://whitepost.com/ As for transmission fluid, you'll want to use Dexron III or equivalent, which is fully backward compatible with earlier Dexron formulations. DO NOT USE DEXRON VI as it is NOT backward compatible. That said, one of the mechanics in my life who taught me much of what I know about cars in general was a transmission rebuilder (he actually rebuilt the Bonneville's trans at 95K miles or so) was of the philosophy that if the fluid is still pink and does not smell burned, leave it alone. He did not believe in changing transmission fluid unless the unit had to be serviced (and thus, drained in the process). Take that FWIW. I don't change my trans or axle fluids. Dex III should also work fine for your power steering pump. Again, great story; thanks for sharing, and I'm with Ed: let's see some pics! |
FWIW, here's a 55 Chieftain You tube video that a father and son bought, and got running, then drove it back to their home 900 miles away. There's lots of good info in this video. They say at the beginning that it sat over 20 years, later on they say 42 years..........:noidea:
While these videos won't answer every question you have, it gives you a great visual of what you're going to be dealing with. I'm sure this will at least will get you headed in the right direction. Sometimes visual aids work better than reading about your subject. Links to the 2 videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zvs77J2WXzs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbEoT_cKxxo Hope this will be of some value in your process of getting your car back on the road. |
When I bought my 1955 Chieftain years ago it had 42,000 miles on it. The interior was like new. The engine was rebuilt. It was a Boston area car its whole life, had never been dented and had no rust at all. I drove it 35 miles home in the dark with no problems. The radio stilled worked but only picked a station that played big band music. Very fitting but creepy. I hope you enjoy your car as much as I did mine.
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Alright, alright, I'll grab you some pictures tomorrow. Anything you'd especially like to see?
Unfortunately, I'm well more than a hop, skip and a jump away from VA, so I'll have to try my luck with a local shop for the master cylinder job. Today's progress... I gave it a new battery. Parking lights and headlights work, along with the dimmer switch. Chief Pontiac on the hood lights up, too. Motorized radio aerial moves up and down (though I didn't exercise it the whole way). Floor light switch works, and the "is the door open" switch works too. Radio buzzes when on, but no clear signal. Dashboard lights don't come on, other than the "Bright Lights" indicator atop the speedometer. Don't know where the horn button is. I assume that some of these only work if the car is running, so we'll have to wait for the fuel flush for fuller tests. Almost installed the battery backwards, incidentally - I think the cables got replaced at some point. Figured out (what I think is) the right direction by comparing the size of the terminals. Negative has a short cable that connects directly to the engine, positive has a much longer cable that stretches backward and into The Depths. Tomorrow's projects: start removing the fuel tank and try to find the fuse box. PS. Started watching the videos linked by Sirrotica. So far I've learned that my car has the optional E-Z-Eye tinted glass, and is wired for a trunk light. |
Great start! Pictures... Exterior shot, dash, under hood might be helpful and interesting. Good progress on electrical testing. Something to implant firmly in your mind, "NEGATIVE GROUND".
The Motorized antennae is an uncommon option and an indicator that there might be several options on the car. It is fortunate it is working. Radio not working is likely a bad tube. That can wait. Horn, radio, & lights work with ignition off. You can test directional signals and by turning the ignition on (doesn't need to be started). For dashboard lights, turn headlight knob all the way to the right and see if they light up. For horn, press the horn ring. If it doesn't work, put it on your list of things to fix. For removing the gas tank, you might find the first video linked by Sirrotica (thanks) to be helpful where he removes the tank. I watched most of the first video. It was long and addicting! Very interesting and helpful to someone putting an old Pontiac back on the road. I believe there are reproduction gas tanks available for your Star Chief. If there is a lot of rust in the tank, a replacement might be a good option. Fuse box is under dash to left of steering column. Fuses are labeled. Onward... |
In the second video they have links to a universal gas tank kit that they make work on their car. The fill tube is a little short inside the quarter panel, but just lengthening it would put it in the correct place. The second video shows them repairing small items with links to vendors that supply 55-57 Pontiac parts.
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Alright, the fuel tank is removed and drained. That was an interesting bit of mechanical Tetris. It looks to be in remarkably good condition - I can't really see any rust.
No luck on the dash lights, but for the horn, I did find a disconnected wire on the junction block next to the driver's side horn. I highly suspect this to be the culprit but didn't get to reconnecting it today. I've been having a lot of fun watching the video you linked, Sirrotica. My engine bay looks a lot fuller than theirs, I think due to a/c equipment, but you'll be able to tell better than I from the pictures. Tomorrow I'll get a gallon or so of gas and rinse the tank, then re-drain it. The tank drain plug tries to leak, so I'll replace the plastic washer if I can find one. What should I do (if anything) to the fuel pump? I assume replacing the fuel filter is a given, but I haven't been inside a fuel pump before. Goatracer mentioned something about a 'sending unit' to be addressed while the tank was out, too. Also going to locate that fuse box (thanks for the tip, Larry) and replace any bad fuses - most are 7.5 amp, according to page 12-34 in the Shop Manual.Attachment 659111 Attachment 659112 Attachment 659113 Attachment 659115 Attachment 659116 |
Nice!
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I was suggesting you check the filter on the fuel pickup. Some early ones were metal and are okay. If nylon replace it if bad. Boy you sound like you have a fully loaded car. Lucky!
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Nice big update for you today: After I posted last night I did a little cleaning: the door locks had been greased with something truly awful that rendered the manual lock pins black and sticky, and the windows didn’t roll as smoothly as they ought. So I worked over the rear door on the driver’s side – the others will follow as time permits. I removed the inside window trim, cleaned that, degreased the lock pin and its screw, then added some judicious WD-40 to the window (and door latch) mechanism. Also removed, cleaned, and reinstalled the metal strip that holds the carpet down at the door. I forgot to take before-and-after pictures, but I intend to remember in the future.
From Sirrotica’s video, also, I discovered that this car must have been fitted with the windshield wiper fluid canister, because there are capped-off lines running from the receptacle to the windshield. I shall have to see about getting that working, farther down the project list. Sirrotica’s video shows that the wiper fluid can be converted to run on the electric rather than the vacuum system, so that’s another thing to look at. It looks like CPR offers a bunch of parts for either system. Today, I checked the indicators – all worked except the front passenger one, which is odd because that light illuminates correctly when the parking lights are on. This was a perfect excuse however to open up the front indicators to see what was going on – the gaskets were bad on both, but so seriously decayed on the passenger side that there was rust inside the housing. Two of the screws were rusted fast and only yielded to serious persuasion – but I ran to the hardware store and got replacements. I also checked the rear indicators, to see what they looked like, and found two more dessicated gaskets (before and after photos below). Finally, the glass covers for the reversing lights are loose in their fittings. So I ordered all 3 types of gasket from Ames. And the horn! Bill Hanlon is a prophet. When I connected that wire, the horn worked so well it wouldn't turn off! My initial guess was a faulty spring or switch in the steering column, but rubbed-off insulation certainly qualifies. That will go on the list for a later project, but I assume the only way to rewire that without taking the whole harness apart is to somehow tie a new wire to the old wire and pull it through. Lastly, I cleaned the outside of the gas tank with water and some degreaser, and sloshed some new gas around the inside, then redrained. Pulled the sending unit to see what was going on, and picture below, let me know what you think. The fuel line was totally plugged at the tank end – a good inch or so of semisolid molasses. After removing that, I could blow through the line no problem. Below you will also see a picture of the tank’s interior, I’m not sure what that odd block is in the middle of the tank floor. Another big thank-you to Bill Hanlon, who not only tells me how I can test the float, but gives me the part number for the new gasket I need! Attachment 659166 Attachment 659167 Attachment 659168 Attachment 659169 Attachment 659170 Edit: It seems the forum decides - totally at random - in which orientation it wants to display my pictures. How do I rotate them to be right-side up? |
If you can't find the gasket for the sending unit in the old Pontiac parts places, here ... https://classicparts.com/chevy-gmc/t...-gasket-rubber ... is one from an old GM truck parts vendor for $1.49 plus who knows how much shipping.
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Edit: It seems the forum decides - totally at random - in which orientation it wants to display my pictures. How do I rotate them to be right-side up?[/QUOTE]
Try cropping your pics to get rid of all black borders, especially the bottom border with .jpg and date info. Rotate as desired, then attach to your thread. |
You can slightly crop your photos so the forum software doesn’t turn them sideways.
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As you can see from last night’s photo, I found no fuel pickup filter on the sending unit (probably why the line was clogged). Regrettably, when I tested the resistance on the gauge, it mostly read 55 ohms, and didn’t change substantially when I exercised the float. So that means - new sending unit.
Two questions today: 1: This unit I found online looks as close as can be, even though it says it's for the Safari https://www.ebay.com/itm/405105617578 - give me a sanity check here, does it look good to you? 2: I took off the engine air intake to look at the carburetor, and lo-and-behold, I suspect I'm missing a part here. Seems to me there should be a riser or a fitting or something to bridge the gap between the top of the carburetor and the filter housing. What am I missing? Attachment 659241 |
1. No, Safari sending unit is not the same. CPR has one listed on ebay and it says "last one". Grab it.
2. You are missing the lower part of the air cleaner that fits over the carb and holds the oil. I don't see any listed on ebay for 4-barrel now but one is listed for 2-barrel. You can look at it to get an idea of what it looks like. https://www.ebay.com/itm/17715844955...Bk9SR9S1kuPCZg You might try the "1955 1956 Pontiac" Facebook group and ask if anyone has one to sell. It will probably show up on ebay at some time. Your Star Chief was a great find. Appears to be very original and in great condition. Lots of interesting options, including AC! I see very little rust. Has it been in a dry climate? You are making great progress! Come take me for a ride next week! :) |
Great find, indeed, Larry! Very nice car.
As for brake master rebuilding, don't shy away from shipping parts to known-good resources for rebuilding vs only relying on what's close. White Post is in VA, true, but shipping on a TreadleVac is nothing compared to having an inexperienced shop attempt to rebuild it and falling short of expectations. (Tip: I used powersteering.com for my steering gear rebuild on my '63, paying the extra for extreme detailing. The shipping and the extra cost of the extreme detail was well worth it for the results I got. They rebuild pumps, too.) Good luck, keep cropping and posting pics, and we'll keep providing hopefully useful feedback, suggestions, and pointers. Great project. You will be rewarded with a fine car when you get through the tough stuff. ;) |
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Today was a fun day - the first PACKAGES arrived in the mail. Got a bottle of Mothers' California Gold chrome polish - delightful stuff - and a set of new hood springs.
The first provided a nice, quiet, cathartic hour of polishing. The second provided a rather tense ten minutes while I figured out how to deal with high-strength springs. Photos below show the old and new springs next to each other, as well as the setup I used to replace them - a clamp held the hood in the upright position, and I just pulled very hard on a doubled rope. If it's stupid and it works, it's not stupid. Attachment 659289 Attachment 659290 Then I cleaned and oiled the driver's door, like I did earlier in the week with the driver rear door. The manual lock pin was stuck even worse than the other one, but elbow grease eventually won. The front window (not sure what its proper name is) that opens radially instead of sliding down was nearly inoperable, but some fiddling with screws and some WD-40 improved it by a good 85% - the difference was shocking, but deeply gratifying. Larry, I would love to come take you for a ride, if it was running next week - which I doubt. I will be very happy if the engine runs and it goes into gear in about a month. Yes, it's been in a dry climate for basically its entire life - it was originally sold by Westward Pontiac, a dealership in central Phoenix that went belly-up in the 70s, as near as I can find out. I ordered that sending unit from CPR, as well as a battery hold down kit and a new locking gas cap. I don't mind the price of the items, but man, they kill you with the shipping. Today's two questions: 1. Hoses - fuel, radiator, etc. - do I need anything special, or can I just use off-the-shelf modern replacements? 2. Oil bath air cleaner: I found this one on ebay that looks right https://www.ebay.com/itm/257119207460 - but then I also found this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/296976120387 that has something else attached to it on the side. What am I looking at here? |
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You are making great progress, keep up the good work!
1. Radiator hoses. For heater hoses, use off the shelf. Yesterday, Rich Gabrielson posted the following on the "1955 1956 Facebook" group. "Found Gates radiator hoses for our Pontiacs. Don't know what they are for but with a little trimming they fit my survivor Safari very well.You might be able to open it at https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid...21200353272194 2. Air Cleaner. I believe the first one you linked is missing the top portion, with the silencer. The second one you linked has the top part with silencer, that tank hanging off to the side. That's what you need, however it is for 57, not 55-56. I don't know what the difference is, but the Master Parts Catalog lists one part for 55-56 and another for 57. I'm attaching a couple of photos of what your engine compartment should look like, including the large air cleaner. The engine photos are of Rich Gabrielson's POCI National award winning 55 Safari. Engine compartment and front end will be same as your Star Chief. It appears you have the same options, including AC. I think you should still be able to view photos of his Safari at https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...star-chief-11/Rich is a good friend, but he doesn't participate in this forum. He does participate and answer questions in the "1955 1956 Pontiac" Facebook group. He has three '55 Pontiacs, two Safaris and a 2-dr sedan with 389 ci engine. |
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Here's a question for you:
What's better than finding the right part on eBay for only $225, and arrival by Wednesday? If you guessed "the previous owner finding the missing part, throwing in FOUR spare oil filters, and picking all that up for FREE on the way home from work," you'd be correct! Photos below: It looks like it all fits together pretty well - though it doesn't have the silencer, it seems that may not be necessary - the '55 from Sirrotica's video doesn't have the silencer either, and it now visually matches the one on Ebay listed as a 55-56. I'm still not entirely sure how an oil bath air cleaner works, but I am resolved not to complain about good fortune. Today's Two Questions: 1. How DOES an oil bath air cleaner work? Does it use the same kind of oil as the engine? 2. While I wait for the new sending unit, I think I'd better drain and refill the radiator. I remember reading somewhere that the coolant mix should be half water and half generic antifreeze? Do I need to add an anti-rust agent, if so, what and how much? Attachment 659356 Attachment 659357 Attachment 659358 |
For your better way of getting parts, your chances are better at winning a billion dollar lottery!:rolleyes:
Photos of air cleaner will work as shown. The top part with silencer is not required for proper air cleaning. However, if you aren't concerned with original appearance, you might get a small after-market paper air cleaner, which will make for less mess, and will make carb easier to access without removing the air cleaner. For originality, keep an eye out for the top portion with silencer. A bracket that attaches to outer end of silencer and to head bolt is also needed. The '55 from Sirrotica's video doesn't have the silencer, but it is the "standard" 2-barrel carb. From what I'm seeing in the MPC, Group 3.402, only the "heavy duty" air cleaner with silencer was used for 4-barrel carb. The 4-barrel carb was not available until the "power pack" option was released, mid-year '55. Question 1. How does air cleaner work? See Shop Manual, p. 6B-2. For air cleaner maintenance, see p. 0-5. Use engine oil. Question 2. Use the green IAT antifreeze at 50/50 ratio with water. Distilled water is best. Additional additives not needed. For details, see https://www.hemmings.com/stories/tec...of-antifreeze/ |
Good to hear about the air cleaner. I do value originality. Though I may upgrade to a paper element at some point, we'll keep it like it is for now - if I happen to stumble across the right replacement for a reasonable sum, then that will be a no-brainer. (And for the record, if I ever DO win a billion-dollar lottery, I'm getting me a Pierce-Arrow.)
Today was a research day: I finally sat down and worked my way through the thirty or so business cards that were in the owner's original papers. Some were to the same business(es), so after deduplication, we were left with around 15-20 cards to different area businesses, mostly dating from the 90s and earlier, as nearly as I can tell. To no one's surprise, most are 1) out of business, 2) bought out by larger chains, or 3) replaced with businesses with such evocative names as "Garcia's Auto Detail & Pressure Wash LLC." It felt like prospecting in a graveyard for a bit, but to my surprise and delight, I found 3 businesses that are still in operation and still family-owned, all these years later - a body/general service shop, an electrics shop, and a specialty speedometer/instrument shop. I'll ring them up eventually to see if they've kept any records of work done on this vehicle. The plan for tomorrow is to pick up coolant and oil before work, and hopefully locate a lower radiator hose. The upper "hose" appears to mostly be a metal pipe, secured with a short hoselike section on either end, so I plan to leave it alone for now. Onwards! |
Quick one, as I didn't see any follow-up:
Those "front windows which open radially" are vent windows. What is particularly interesting about this era is the locking capability which disappeared when these gained cranks by the end of the decade. Hopefully, your locks still slide freely, and you have the vents opening and closing smoothly. The vent window is one innovation which has been lost to history, yet sorely missed by many of us. Continued good luck with your work. You're an inspiration (work continues on the dismantling of my '56 Safari...almost ready to remove the drivetrain). |
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Ah, vent windows. That's a good name for them. And yes, enjoy a picture - they have both the cute little pin locks and a crank. Today I dropped by a local auto store and picked up some engine oil and antifreeze (I assume it takes about 4 gallons of 50/50), only to find out when I got home that I can get the antifreeze for less than half the price online. So a-returning I shall go. Also removed the short bridge line that connects the metal fuel line to the fuel pump - some varnish and some pellets of petrified petroleum poured out. Better out than in!
Attachment 659532 Today's two big questions, however, have to do with the brakes. 1. While I wait for all my other parts to start trickling in, it's time to finally excavate the master/booster cylinder from its nigh-impenetrable refuge. I think the only way to accomplish this is to go in from the driver's position, by removing the plate behind the brake pedal, and pulling the whole assembly through into the cabin. Am I right, or is there a better way to do it? Photos below - I think it's a Delco-Moraine unit. Attachment 659533 Attachment 659534 2. I will definitely reach out to White Post - after all, 'if you think hiring a professional is expensive, wait 'til you hire an amateur.' Anyone else I should get bids from? Ideally, I'd like to have it back in a month or so, though I expect the good folks are probably backlogged. |
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I don't have another recommendation for you for the master cylinder/booster rebuild. On my '63, we replaced the master this time around (a few years back, and I still have returned parts in boxes) with a rebuilt one from Ames. If no core return, I'll have White Post rebuild my old one to keep on the shelf. Which reminds me... While you are working on the brakes, take a few minutes to get under the car and inspect the brake lines. I've had much younger steel lines than yours rust through. Assuming they look solid, you might still consider replacing them with pre-bent stainless steel ones (and of course, the rubber lines at the wheel cylinders should be inspected and replaced as necessary. When your master comes back, bleeding and testing for frozen wheel cylinders will be another fun excursion, but at least hydraulic brakes are all very logical in that respect. Last note about vent windows and my earlier mention of cranks: Early-early vents (and still later, those in less expensive cars) had vents which simply "pushed out." So, unlatch the lock, push to the desired position, and done. The bottom of the vent had a little knob to pull it back into place for locking, usually integral with the lock. The cranks overlapped for a time, I guess until someone at the factory (or in sales) decided that people felt sure enough that when closed without a lock, the vent couldn't be breached from the outside to gain access to an otherwise locked car. It's funny how some stuff just hangs around for a while. |
FWIW, In my opinion using stainless brake lines is a real PITA. Half the time they don't fit the application, plus they're prone to leaking on the flares because the material is so hard they don't conform well and leak.
Premium car manufacturers have switched to Nicopp lines for ease of bending, flaring, and sealing. Nicopp is an alloy of nickel and copper and will never rust or corrode and is much more forgiving than stainless when it comes to bending and routing brake lines. Just my experience, YMMV, :2cents: |
NiCopp is great, and I can't argue with the logic (particularly after having fought recently with two sets of SS tans cooler lines which were supposedly pre-bent for my '63). No argument with using a real tubing bender and flaring tool, either. SS is hard as a rock, for sure. ;)
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Good tips given above. I learned some things. Avoid stainless tubing. For tubing, including pre-bent brake and gas lines, try https://www.inlinetube.com/
Instructions for removing power brake unit are given in Shop Manual section 5, p. 5-20. Listen to those with experience (I've never removed one). For recommended shop to rebuild, you might try asking in the 1955 1956 Pontiac Facebook group. If you are looking for a local shop, give your location. Your metal tube on upper radiator connection is correct for AC equipped. AC radiator is different that non-AC. It is mounted in front of the support assembly whereas non-AC radiator is mounted in back of support assembly. Info I previously gave for radiator hoses is for non-AC, not for your AC equipped. If you are replacing the lower radiator hose, I suggest taking the old one into a well equipped parts store and try to get something similar. I've had good luck with local NAPA parts store. Air cleaner. I'm wondering if the previous owner might still have the top part, with silencer, and not know what it is? Before starting the car, you might put drip pans under the engine and transmission. You will surely get some drips somewhere, hopefully not bad. |
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It worked!
Attachment 659601 Attachment 659602 Attachment 659603 Attachment 659604 Today's two questions: 1: How do I test the vacuum tank? 2: I've looked at the shop manual, but it's just not making sense: how do I drain the coolant? Shop manual says there are 3 drain cocks - one on the radiator lower tank and two on the engine block - but when I poke my nose under the front all I see is a mystery-maze of metal. I see nothing I can identify as a 'lower tank,' - the radiator lower hose seems to go to the engine - and I'm not sure where on the engine to look, either. There's a round hole (6" or so) in one of the metal plates under the car, through which I can see two bolts, but those don't look like 'drain cocks' to me. |
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Externally, the power brake unit looks quite good for a 70 year old unit.
1. Not sure about testing, other ideas welcomed. If the vacuum tank looks in good condition, you might just assume it is okay. To test it, you might submit it in water, apply air pressure to the inlet, and look for bubbles. 2. See attached. The radiator shown is for 1955-56 non-AC, but I'm not sure about AC radiator, they have some differences. I would expect it to be in the same general location on front side of lower tank. For the engine drain cocks, you need to access them from under the car. The one on driver's side might be a bit difficult to access because of exhaust system and starter on that side. But it will be in same position as shown in photo on passenger's side. Be careful when opening drain cock from under car, don't get it in your eyes. |
I made a tool out of a 6" (more or less) long piece of 1/2" PVC pipe with notches cut in one end to fit the "wings" on the drain cocks. Helps in tight spaces.
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If you have to replace wheel cylinders or brake shoes make sure you order the correct sizes. I am in the process of doing my grandson's 1955 Chieftain. Turns out it has HD chassis. Several different bore sizes are offered for cylinders and different diameters and widths for shoes. Bore sizes were 1 and 1/16 in front and 15/16 in the rear. Front shoes were 12 x 2.25 and rear were 11 x 1.75. Make sure you measure yours. Wheel cylinders I got from Rock Auto but the shoes came from eBay. You must read sizes carefully though. As far as the block drains go they will probably be plugged so you will have to unscrew the petcocks and poke a wire in the hole.
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