Good quality distributor?
 

I am trying to tap the forum knowledge to find a new distributor for my 455 engine. I am quite fed up with failing distributors by now. The engine had a cheap no-name HEI type distributor on it when I got it. The distributor lasted about 1,5 seasons before it quit and was repalced by me with a Petronix Flame Thrower II billet distributor. This one worked flawless for a couple of years (the car does not get driven that much, maybe 1,000 -2,000 miles a year). Last year it wouldn't start anymore and it turned out that the pick-up module in the distributor died. I replaced it with the correct new Pertronix module and the engine now starts immediately, idles smooth and nicely but as soon as I drive with a bit of load on the engine, it stumbles and misses and generally runs like s...t. Fuel supply etc. is all good and before the dizzy died the car ran great. Instead of further troubleshooting on the dizzy and throwing more parts at it, I am thinking of installing a new, good quality unit...and that is where the problem starts: There are so many mixed reviews out there about most of the available distributors, that I am a bit at loss what to buy. Is there any really reliable, good quality distributor available out there, that can be expected to work properly for a longer time? It does not have to be electronic/HEI style, but it seems good points style units are also not easy to find...
Thanks for all input!

I installed a clone of the MSD ready to run (RTR) distributor last season and it’s been great, perhaps look at the MSD version or one of the clones from Summit, Jegs, etc, mine is the TSP.

I’d also strongly consider one of the Progressive programmable distributors, easy to tune/program via your phone and I’ve not heard of a single failure from anyone online running them, in retrospect I should have bought one but my RTR was easy to curve and less than half the price of the Progressive.

I am running original points distributors in both my 66 GTO Tri-Power and in my 70 TheJudge. They have never fail or let me down since 35+ years and still running.

Go the factory route and the car will function as intended.

JMHO

Progression

Oops, sorry, too early without my coffee! Progression distributors

https://progressionignition.com/?srs...FU9lK2T51T1sY6

Maybe before you stuff something else in there you should look at the cars charging system and confirm that at times it does not go above 14.5 volts which could kill those modules.
Voltage spikes will kill solid state electronics but not good old points.

The system needs to be monitored at both high and low rev’s and when things like the high beams are turned on and off and or the blower motor.

Also confirm that the distributor is getting a solid ground.

Have you confirmed the distributor positive wire is supplying a full 12 volts on start/run? This requires bypassing or replacing the resistance wire the factory used for points.

My first choice is points. Several cars with points and they just always work without complaint.

If I do an aftermarket ignition system I go for an msd. Quite a few of those in my cars as well and I don't have issue with them. Some have been in the cars more than 25 years, some are newer, theyve all been fine.

Just depends on what you want out of the car and what you're willing to spend

Don't even get me started on pertronix lol

If it runs bad after changing the pickup, check the air gap and alignment before condemning the distributor. Not uncommon for the trigger wheel to crack on an HEI as well, which can cause a myriad of issues, especially if it slips out of alignment with the pickup or spins on the shaft. As mentioned above, check the alternator output, not just the DC voltage but confirm no AC voltage in the system from a failed diode in the rectifier. It's possible that the alternator output is responsible for the death of the old pickup. With electrical components, a failed part can easily be a symptom and not the root cause of the issue.

No complaints about the msd ready-2-run unit in my old bird.

I even accidently broke it once and they replaced it FOC many years after the warranty expired.

Good luck.

Points here also. I can fix easily. Electronics not so for me.

MSD or the new Progression Ign dist is what I use. The progression is amazing, just expensive.

I do agree that faulty electrical systems in these old cars are often root cause for some electronics failures. A less expensive dizzy isn't going to have robust protection from transients and load dumps.

Hi, I have a HEI distributor I kept with genuine GM module , probably looking to sell. pm with shipping address if interested.

Progression Ignition distributor for me, upgraded from MSD billet.

I run a summit branded MSD Pro Billet clone. It's actually a pretty nice piece. End play was within spec right out of the box, the machining on the housing is great and the cap provided is also nice quality.

I also just installed a Progression Ignition in my uncle's 67 Firebird. That is a nice piece as well.

Thanks for all the responses!
Since the engine is not very high performance (close to stock 1972 engine, 068 cam, long branch cast headers, Quadrajet,...) and sits in my 1965 Catalina convertible which is more of a cruiser than a racer, I would probably do fine with a points style distributor...
Is there a source that sells good/new points distributors? Finding an good used one over here in Europe will not be so easy...

The progression units look very nice though...

I am a cast iron points guy. I have yet to find one all worn out and sloppy.
39 $ on E bay. With a little TLC this one should do.
If you also get a working CD box the points will last very, very long. You can find them cheap all over E Bay too. If it ever fails, swap a few wires around and drive home.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23659022733....SIM%26mech%3D

Removed my Pertronix Dizzy and went back to points...no more problems.

I had a Petronix points conversion, ….when it died, I posted about it, lots here said go back to points and I almost did, but a couple individuals here recommended DUI performance HEI distributors. Not cheap, but a great product, I’m happy so far.

https://performancedistributors.com/...GrErIud_KqPJVC

Do you know if the Summit RTR distributor is 0.50" shaft diameter with a melonized gear? The Summit description says 0.467" which is an odd size and if it's not melonized, not for use with a roller cam. The MSD RTR is 0.50" shaft with a melonized gear so a couple of points for the MSD and another for good customer service.

Same here . Wasted much time & money on Petronix and finally went back to points & my original coil . Runs excellent I I had to wire in a small ballast resistor and mounted it on the coil bracket but was back jumping over pop bottles in no time .

I put an inexpensive "Skip White Racing" HEI in my car back in 2010 when they were all the rage. My old Delco had worn out the bushings and had developed an excessive amount of end play causing spark scatter (high RPM miss).

At that time the distributors came in a box marked TSP (Top Street Performance) and were considered one of the more reliable import HEI distributors. I ran it for 10 years with only an advance spring change. For no particular reason, I recently replaced the internals and cap with NOS Delco parts and I expect continued trouble-free service from it.

I've had a DUI HEI now for 5 years and it's been trouble free. Seems like most all of the complaints about aftermarket HEIs are Pertronix or off brands. Haven't really seen DUI failures. Although, I'll admit that I'm considering a Progression ignition dist. I had one then got cold feet and sold it before I installed it. Now I'm rethinking that. Seems like there are quite a few people here running them without issues. A Grok search doesn't find any reliability issues across the interwebs....

Here's part of the Grok description of DUI:

DUI (Davis Unified Ignition) Performance Distributors are widely regarded as highly reliable, long-lasting electronic HEI-style units with decades of positive real-world feedback from street, strip, marine, and off-road users.

hotrod.com

Key Reliability HighlightsProven track record: In business since the early 1990s, DUI distributors earn consistent praise for durability. Many users report 10–20+ years of service with minimal issues. Common feedback includes "stone cold reliable," trouble-free operation in hot climates (e.g., Arizona), and strong performance without external boxes or complex wiring.

classicbroncos.com

User experiences: Forums like CorvetteForum, Chevelles, Ford-Trucks, and others frequently describe them as "flawless," with benefits like improved throttle response, cleaner exhaust, better idle, and strong spark. Long-term examples include 14+ years with only routine cap/rotor maintenance, or 20+ years on Broncos with just one module replacement after 15 years.

I have installed probably 2 dozen pertronix 2 kits in points distributors over the years I always buy the matching coil. I have not had a single failure. The one in my 69 Camaro has been trouble free for 17 years now. I was surprised to see guys havening problems with them. I was going to buy one of their HEI distributors for my current 400 stroker engine but after reading this, I'm having second thoughts. I know you can have problems if you don't run a full 12 volts to them and you have to use a coil with the correct resistance. Are these problems something that has come up recently?

A MSD pro billet knock-off with an MSD programmable 6AL 2 is about the same cost as the Progression, and gives you more flexibility. Very little to go wrong on the dizzy, and the electronics have been hammered out over decades.

The Summit knock-off is $190, 6AL 2 is about $400.

Problem with HEI's is the coil-in-cap. They heat up and go bad pretty often, and can cause gremlins that will frustrate even a seasoned hot rodder.

Go to a standard type external coil and your' choices are near endless.

Many can't use HEI's because of the size, or don't want to because of the size.

And of course there are issues with the modules, and don't get me started, I know how many say it's the best thing since sliced bread.

Programmable is nice for a number of reasons, one, it does what you tell it to, and you don't have to 'send it off for a curve'.

The 6AL 2 uses a number of types of MAP sensors, readily available at just about any parts store. GM type replacement MAP sensor are like $30, can even carry a spare if you wanted.

The 6 AL 2 can be used with just about any dizzy, points, mag trigger, hall effect, even crank triggers.

Not sure why so many are reluctant to not go this route, simple logic says it's a winning combo. Look how many are using it and you will see it's reliable and heavily supported.



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HEI and MSD ignition systems are fine if you are unable to modify the carb to deliver proper amounts of combustible mixtures, f.e. with the use of low compression, EGR or camshafts making weak vacuum signals and lean mixtures at idle/low speeds. Add to that the ethanolblended fuels.

Don´t forget all the Pontiac High Performance V8´s from the 1955 to 1974 were using points distributors and most of the 389-421 HO/Tri-power, 400-428 HO/RA, 455 HO/SD engines ran pretty good with the points. As did all the other 100´s of millions cars using points ignition systems. With the carb up to par for the hot camshaft and todays fuels there is NO reason to replace a well functional mechanical ignition system with some electronic gizmo that may leave you on the side of the road.

JMHO

Like anything else you’ve ever dealt with in life…

9 out of 10 times the cheap widget just doesn’t seem to make the grade over the more expensive correctly spaced widget.

A custom built to your application unit is gonna be hands down your best bet no matter the flavor.

You pretty much answered your own question with the first two that went in the engine. Especially the first one. ALL of these aftermarket distributors built in the last 20 years with the exception of DUI and maybe that profession thing , don’t have grease in the top to lube correctly the top bushing. Not sure about the progression thing and not gonna take one in here at shop anyhow, don’t care how good or bad it’s supposed to be or not be.

I don’t think anyone mentioned a custom built unit you may already have. One with the right parts fitted tigether correctly so as not to end up with a sub par unit even before you take it out of the box. I guess those days are in the past but it’s still a very viable option anyhow.

The less electronic gadgetry there is in the deal the much better off you’re gonna be. It’s always been that way.always will be.

Does anyone recognize these points, advertised as NOS in a box that allows like Delco-Remy (fooled me)but not quite. I bought two sets on eBay for my 69 Lemans. One set is installed, with an AC Delco cap and rotor. Just wondering if they arw considered decent points.

This will fix your problem. You will love how well it all works and the reliability.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23659022733....SIM%26mech%3D

And
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26744544544...C18cvSGrpUiue6

Hi-6 boxes are made in the USA, nice stuff. Will get you the same performance as MSD stuff for 1/2 the price. There is a brand new one for 300 $
Built in rev limiters, no chips.
I bought my brother a cast iron sbc distributor for 15$ and a HI-6 for 75$ years ago when he was having HEI troubles on his bracket car. They ended the problem.
This Crane box looks almost new but does not say "tested good". There are others that say tested good but might not look as nice or cost a little more.

This one is even cheaper and says nice shape, ready to go.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/35635464748...Bk9SR47-uIeoZw

I'm in that camp with a couple of cars. Stock points distributor with a custom curve and modified vacuum advance triggering an msd box.

This is my favorite setup simply because it's damn near failure proof. If the box fails I switch wires on the coil and drive off on the points.

Couple of other cars are points only and I don't have a single complaint. Couple of them have had the same points in them for over 20;years. They rarely ever need adjusted, I just check them once a year with the dwell meter, takes about 10 seconds

I have a Crane Hi-6 box on the shelf - how does one test them?

Good question and what do you do for wiring if it’s missing?

The Gold Standard for a bunch of years running, add a high quality box to it if you just can’t stomach the idea of a lowly set of points….

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...-6000-6400.pdf

They do have a green/red power light that comes on when they get 12V. Not a full test but at least you know if it powers up.

That iron distributor in my link is a 66 model. Last year of iron distributors ?

Lots of good advice here, thanks a lot! I will try to purchase a stock points distributor and the Hi-6 box... Just not always so easy to find a seller willing to ship overseas fromt eh US...

I bet everyone on this thread has a daily driver with electronics in it.

The goal for the recommended box was for being able to program the curve, not to make up for any lack of carb tuning.

You grab a 50+ yo points dizzy from eGay, you're going to have to check everything. Shaft for wear and straightness, ensure the proper parts are being used and are all there, ensure the body & bushings aren't worn out, and you still have to dial it in with weights & springs.

Sure everybody at one point or another have found you can't just throw any 'ol weights & springs in there and expect it to run properly. Plate/weight mismatch, springs w poor tolerances, RPM creep/drift of timing, plate stops, vacuum can issues/adj/limits, and you still have to find a good set of points or HEI module.

If you want to trust 15+ yo used electronics over a new MSD unit, then more power to you. But to comment, that's a considerable higher risk for failure than a new MSD box.

I guess it would be 'ok' for a weekend cruiser with an occasional WOT blast w max 5500 RPM, but it's not going to cut it for something you want to drive a lot and long distances. And I'm not talking about that one summer event you want to cruise to 2 hours each way to, I mean potentially 1000s of miles within a week or two.

Try a Power Tour. That will shake out a car. I know it flushes out all the people that are still fine with driving on 10 yo tires.

Like I said, so many are reluctant. At least some are switching over the EFi...



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Yup I agree 100%. Advance pins never wear on a cast iron points distributors? Mo money mo time. Not going to sink $500 into an old points distributor when I can go with a new RTR MSD with modern parts, melonized gear, and built in rev limiter.

Curious to know more on that Progression Distributor - customer service is something too. MSD tech is fairly easy to get a hold of. FAST(formerly CRANE)/Edelbrock Group a joke these days. One call in to Progression and get an ansering machine.

Love to hear some feedback on the app and Progression overall.

The Progression Ignition (PI) distributor is fairly new to the market as I'm sure you know, but those who have them, love them - myself included. I haven't seen any bad reports. FWIW, my Firebird has a Holley Sniper with Hyperspark dizzy, and the Lemans has points, so I'm all over the map.

I'm not knocking MSD but I believe to get the same features as a PI, you would need the dizzy and the CD box, so more money, two components to fail, plus the PI is programmable from your smart phone on the fly- not sure if the new MSD boxes do the same. I only called the PI when I was researching and had no problem getting a live person, so can't comment on customer service with any how good it for issues.

If you don't mind waiting until one pops up.. I got a nice used points distributor and an ignition box (an old Mallory in my case) from kleinanziegen.. they do show up from time to time...

There's a HEI unit on there currently but it's a bit pricey for me (300) for something that is in a used, unkown state.

Cost, is very comparable between the two, The Pi is $560, + $200 if you want launch control, N2O retard, and data logging. The main body looks just like a pro billet, and appears to use the same caps & rotors (as do the knock off ones).

The Summit pro billet knock of is $190, the MSD 6AL-2 is $399, and a MAP sensor is like $30. It comes with multiple feature, but if you want data logging, I believe that might require another box. And no, it can't do tuning from the phone. But it's not like you're going to be playing with it as you drive, and once you get your' all around tune, doubt you will do much tuning with it.

More things to go wrong. So you have one small board in the Pi that has a MAP built on to it, BT interface, etc. If only one thing goes wrong, then the whole thing needs to be repaired.

The pro billet (not RTR) is basically just a mag pickup, and the box you can mount away from heat and vibration. Worse case scenario the box goes bad, and you could have a replacement in like 3 days. And the repair is plug & play.

Just to say, personally, I don't like bluetooth, or phone apps, they are always 'spotty' when it comes to connectivity and function. I'm sure it's getting better, but take for example, how many updates have you gotten over the last 6 mo on your phone?

Hyperspark setup is nice, and if it were more competitive on pricing, bet more people would run them. And yes, you can use them without efi. Hall effect distributors have a number of advantages, but outside of efi, it just doesn't warrant the additional cost.

The MSD Programmable 6AL-2 is compatible with hall effect sensors/distributors.

Anyway, I'm sure the Pi is a good product, and it's probably engineered well. It's a new entry into the market, which is good/bad, guess time will tell. I'm curious about long-term usage reviews, hopefully we will start seeing more of those.

EDIT: The MSD Pro-Data+ Software does data logging, and is included with the AL-2.
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Having just installed one of the PI dizzy's on my uncles 67 Firebird, it's been pretty awesome to work with. Especially because I'm basically acting as the tuner.

It connected for him instantly without any fuss and we haven't had any issues delivery tunes to it. In fact, based on what he tells me over the phone about what the car is doing, I can update the MAP on my phone and send him a new file, that he uploads and he sees instant results.

There's a place for a pro-billet and 6AL-2 box, but in this situation, the PI dizzy is allowing him and myself to do things that a more traditional setup isn't as adept at.

My uncle's car now has a FiTech controlling fuel and a PI dizzy controlling spark. It's never run better since her purchased the car. So much so that he's put more miles on it in the last handful of weeks than he's put on it in the previous 4 years.

As always, YMMY, but I continue to see positive results with these intuitive and easy to use solutions.

So the guy who knows more about distributors than anyone called a iron points distributor the "gold standard" for reliability and you come along and try and make it sound like a points distributor and a USA made CD box "might not make it" on a long drive ?
Rubbish.
The old USA made CD boxes from Crane, MSD and Mallory are BETTER than the new "Made in CHINA" stuff you can buy now.
I have had a MSD box from the 80s on my car and a distributor from 1962 and it has never gave me trouble.
(I did have a rotor screw loosen once, my fault)
All the guys at the track have had ignition trouble in my 35 years of racing while I just went up and down the track and the same set of points for most of it. I changed them a couple years ago, just because.
You can find nice iron points distributors if you look. I bought this one from Paul Carter for 125$ just to keep around. It is ready to go, looks and feels like a new.

This is the most reliable ignition system, period. And a electronic ignition will not get you one more horsepower with a CD box. I have spun my distributor all the way to the max on a Sun machine, never a hick up. With a good set of Accel/ Napa points, points bounce is a non issue.
You can even have a new condenser sitting under the cap unused just in case the CD box fails and you need to switch some wires around and drive home.
I would get a brass Mallory one. I have had the same Mallory condenser on my setup working the whole time since the 80s.

To the OP. If you do get a iron distributor they have a smaller pin for the gear. I drilled mine out to the size the aluminum units have.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-401

Love my PI distributor. Replaced my MSD billet one. Love the ignition retard for starting, the ability to tune on the fly & see the tune real time while running. Saving different timing maps that can be uploaded easily. Changing timing without having to mess with springs, vacuum pods & weights. Love the ability to change the timing advance when I turn on the AC and put load on the engine to maintain the same idle speed as when its off. Like the anti-theft shut off and max RPM limit adjustability. No issues with it so far. I run it with my MSD 6A box I've had forever. Would never go back from it to any other distributor. They are good at responding to my questions via email.

I and many others like the old cars with the technology that was used.
If I want modern stuff, I buy a modern car.
I have a hard time imagining the owner of a Model T Ford putting an HEI, MSD or EFI on his engine. It just doesn't look right.
Getting an original ignition system to work as intended is really no big deal.
And by the way, why stop at MSD or EFI?
Put the powertrain from a Tesla in a classic GTO, NOW you're modern!

JMHO

Certainly nothing wrong with that.

Anecdotally, I can tell you that the cars that I see around my town that are being driven. Meaning I'm seeing them out an about. They are showing up to cars and coffee events, being taken up the canyons etc. Most of them have been modernized.

When I see lots of originality, it's only ever at a car show. Those cars seem to come out sparingly, and there's typically a sea of trailers just outside the show.

I'm not saying that's always the case, but it's just an observation that I see in my local area.

I respect everyone's opinion and experience, not trying to offend anyone, just sharing my opinion.

Late 70s thru the 80s and into the 90s, I ran many types of boxes, Crane, MSD, Mallory, Accel, Jacob, Pertronix, and ones I can't remember.

I've run just about every type of distributor too, AND, my fallback was always points. Without a box to be clear. But my fallback dizzy took considerable time to setup properly, and it did have parts from multiple donor cores.

I drove my cars as primary transportation from late-70s thru the 20-0hs, and probably have more street miles on my cars than just about anyone here. I did 90%+ of the work on those cars too. I've tried just about every aftermarket part for a pontiac that's available.

What is the most reliable pickup? Take your time, let me know. But I can tell you, the mag pickups are probably one of the top 3, easy. Look how many OEs have used it over the years.

I went multi-point SEFi in the mid-90s, which basically forced me into using a specific kind of ignition, hence, CD box. So since then, I've revisited CD boxes, and in my experience, across the board, the most reliable boxes were/are MSD. (and yes I've had MSD failures).

Let's revisit the OP's opening statement:

"I am trying to tap the forum knowledge to find a new distributor for my 455 engine. I am quite fed up with failing distributors by now."

So what's the recommendation? Are you going to tell this person to use an old points distributor from eGay? And go thru it and curve it?

Let's look at this from a risk management perspective. Although some system components have desirable features, and even though others have had success with it, new parts and new companies need to stand the test of time. It's a simple fact. Nothing worse than getting part X all dialed in and the company goes under or changes hands.

For many, dialing in a distributor curve takes time and knowledge, not all have the experience/knowledge as many here. Do a search here on how many made comments about 'sending a distributor out for a custom curve' ? This is where being able to program it is very useful, people can just program it. How many still have a graveyard of shafts, weights, & springs?

OP Comment: "Instead of further troubleshooting on the dizzy and throwing more parts at it, I am thinking of installing a new, good quality unit." (2nd Pertronix)

Selection Criteria: Reliability, NEW, quality unit.

Anything beyond that is a bonus or not needed.

My recommendation: MSD RTR or knock-off Cost: MSD = $575, Knock-Off = $375

Bonus: Programmable timing control for about the cost of an MSD RTR.

My recommendation: MSD Pro Billet knock-off with a programmable CD box +MAP.

Cost: $190 + $400 + $30 = $620

So for the basic cost of an MSD RTR, you can get programmable timing control. How does that not make sense?


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