Haltech conversion
 

So it's been a while since I gave an update here but here goes....

I've always wanted DBW, in my opinion it's much safer (2xTPS sensors on the pedal and 2x on the TB) where everything has to match and in the event there's a failure, it shuts the car down. But one thing with the Haltech, with DBW, if you wire in a brake switch you can get cruise control! Since I have my 4L80e on the bench ready to go in, swapping out to 3.9 rear gears coupled with a 4L80e, having access to cruise control just seems too good to pass up.

While I was at it, I decided to also go with a Haltech PD16 PDM to replace my mechanical fuse/relay box plus the PD16 will also control the 4L80e for me too. One requirement I have with the transmission is I do not want to manualise it. It doesn't interest me anymore.

This is what many many MANY hours looks like from making a bracket to mount the computer so it's almost hidden from plain sight, to plugging everything in...

I've stopped using PVC coated wire now as the sheathing is just so thick and heavy compared to TXL/STL/Tefzel. IMO, spend the extra couple bucks on at least TXL for any major wiring jobs with braided sleeve OR lengths of DR25 Raychem. Depending on the environment you're wiring for.

More pics.

More pics

Nice work Kris! Keep up the updates. It'll be nice to hear your commentary on tuning/performance differences.

So far everything has tested fine, my china made transducers are leaking like a sieve though :mad: -- Have proper TI pressure sensors on order to replace them.

I also switched to a lithium battery because of the HUGE weight saving (20kgs for lead acid, 4kg for LiFEPO4). But as I've just found out, the battery I've just bought has a hard cut at 11.2V, meaning, when my car cranks it will drop the voltage to about 10.2V, so 1 second into cranking the battery shuts off... :mad:

Put the old lead acid battery back on and crank the car, it'll crank for ever! I also have the Haltech to control the starter motor now with neutral switch and brake switch input for safeties to engage the starter. New cars are like a momentary start now on the key and that's how I've got the car setup now which is unreal. Just tap the key and it starts cranking, if the car doesn't catch it'll stop cranking automatically after however many seconds you want.

Will sync the crankshaft to the computer tomorrow and see if we have fire in the hole!

Thanks for the update.

Battery is all fixed up - the battery they sold me was the wrong one for this application. The 11V hard cut is for newer style cars where the starters aren't cranking over big heavy motors like Pontiacs's, big blocks etc... The new "RACE" class of battery only has an 8V hard cut.

Got the car running, the throttle body has issues with a TPS sensor crapping itself when the car runs. Pulled the genuine Hitachi off my LS3 and reversed the car out of the garage under its own steam. Once I get the TB sorted, will work on the idling circuit and get to dialling the fuel side back in. Timing and commanded AFR was ported across from the Megasquirt. All in all, the conversion has been great, the little 400 seems to be a bit more raspy now with the Holley elbow, I think it gives more plenum volume for the victor which the engine loved when I ran a spacer but couldn't keep it on because of hood clearance issues.

Other than the TB issue, everything has worked perfectly first go which is strange coming from a Megasquirt world as they are VERY sensitive to grounding. Most MS issues I've had were from crappy grounding and shielding. Haltech seems to be so much better when it comes to noise rejection.

Good to hear it's going your way. I love the power distribution concept of some of the Haltech units I've seen. This one appears from the pics to have that. I'm sure that makes life simpler. Keep up the updates

Yeah mate the PDM is a game changer for me and it doubles as my 4L80e controller. I don’t need to run my jag fuel pump controller anymore as this will pwm my primary pump natively. Plus it’s controlling my start function now too with a momentary type key start like a new car. Takes care of neutral safety and if manual will do clutch and brake pedal safety etc.


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