Progress towards sequential fuel and spark
 

I have a long ways to go... But the timing wheel is on. Due to wanting the concentricity to be right, and no longer having access to a lathe, milling machine and indexing head, it was fairly expensive to have done... But it's right, and it's on. In the photos it's at the point where I'll set up the probe to read (happens to be 40° btdc as Megasquirt recommends) on the first tooth after the missing tooth. This is the spot that has the most room to fit it and is furthest from the belt with my particular belt wrap. I got lucky and didn't disturb pulley alignment, as years ago, for a reason I can't remeber, I used one of the flanges that's supposed to be on the outside of the pulley, on the inside for alignment reasons. The trigger wheel is only .007" thicker, so it was a wash. Pure luck... Had the Super Victor EFI milled while I was having work done at the machine shop. I'm working on cleaning, and removing the casting flash and it will go on. It may run with my EZ EFI and plugs in the injector bungs til I figure out a few more issues for sequential install... Like which crank sensor to use and building the mount. And other things. It's always something...

Interesting, keep the updates coming. Where did you get the Pontiac specific trigger wheel from? I’ve seen pickups at diy autotune.

Good going Scott! If you need anything from FAST, let me know - my price is your price, and I get good prices :-)

Scott, if you need anything basic machined, from standard materials (steel, aluminum, plastic etc) that manual machines are suitable for, let me know. I can contribute my time and materials. Brackets, mounts, spacers, adapters etc. I have the usual, BP mill, 9" lathe, bending equipment, TIG etc.
Would be happy to help the project and I usually have a pretty fast turnaround on small things like that, since I'll just go down to the shop and night, turn on the radio and work by myself.
Have Autodesk Inventor, AutoCad, etc if you use tools like that.

The wheel was not Pontiac specific. It came from DIY Autotune as a blank with a 1/2" pilot hole in the center. It's now "Pontiac specific" due to Owens Racing and my layout... To get it in that position it ended up by chance that if you put one bolt hole of the 4 hole pattern on the first tooth after the missing tooth it worked. I had the second set put in just in case... Thanks Lee and dataway for the offers. All offers appreciated! I'm already committed to the Megasquirt, as I have purchased the ecu. On a side note, while I was at Owens, I discovered that someone is having a McCarty RAV headed engine built there. If it's anyone on here, and you live in the area I sure hope I get to see the finished product around town!

Any reasons to do this if you have the Holley EFI distributor instead? Or does that distributor just work with the Holley EFI?

I think that is John Wigham's motor. Procharged, EFI, RAV headed motor. His intake was right behind my Northwind at Luhn Performance to be set up for EFI. Been helping him with a few ideas on his Pro-Touring build. It's going to be badass!

A VERY rookie question here:

Given that these timing wheels mount on the crankshaft, how does an EFI unit or a "coil per plug" electronic ignition that operates from a crankshaft timing wheel know that it is "time" to do their job and not one revolution away? I can understand how it would work if the timing wheel was driven off the camshaft (1/2 crankshaft speed).

The only knock on the dual sync would be accuracy due to chain stretch. As far as which engine event the crank wheel is on, you need a cam sync to identify phase (TDC compression vs exhaust). You could run one wheel on the distributor I believe, but then you're back to gradually changing accuracy due to chain stretch. The crank mounted wheel, with a cam sync is what I'm choosing as best for a practical, and accurate alternative. I'm certainly no expert though...

Thanks Scott, that answers my question.

Cool project...looking forward to seeing it completed. Good Luck

Don't stress too much about getting the missing tooth in the right spot with a Megasquirt, you can adjust the cyl#1 angle/offset so the ECU knows exactly where #1 is in relation to the missing tooth. And yes you are right, crank triggers are without a doubt the BEST way to trigger the computer. Distributors are junk for primary EFI control, they're slow and they don't respond well to changes in engine speed because there's only 8 pulses per 720, where in your setup there's 72 pulses (well, 70) per 720 so the ECU knows what is happening every 10 degrees of rotation. I converted an old mallory small body distributor for cam sync for #1 home signal and to drive the oil pump. I'd get a luhn cam plug now if I had to do it again.

I'd love one of the ones from Luhn too. My budget says no.... I'll have to get creative instead of throwing money at it, unfortunately. That is a nice piece.

Injectors
 

So... Im fairly sure I have the data I need to be able to run the injectors I have. But I'm curious if those of you who are experienced with efi injectors will comment on how they fit the manifold. I'll attach a picture, but it won't be super helpful. The injector is recessed from the port (up inside the boss) by .250" to the short side. Is this normal? I assume that being out from the direct flow path to some degree is normal? Seems it would allow the spray pattern to form uninterrupted by flow through the port. So experts, is this normal? Is there an optimal, or standard fit? Thanks for any input.

Normal. The spray pattern is probably 30deg depending on the injector. I've seen old pintle style injectors shoot like a jet stream and still run, albeit at idle you gotta compromise a bit but you should be OK.

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Thanks Kris. They are Fast 80527. They are the Ls3 short injectors. Which I like, as it puts the rails lower and works with the shorter edelbrock mounts.

The machine work on the manifold is done. I had to have .060" milled off for proper alignment, same as the last non efi Victor I had... I've done all the cleanup I'm going to do at this time. Later on I may have it professionally ported, but for now it's ok. Going back together tomorrow with my FAST ez efi so I can drive it to where my welding machine is and build the bracket for the crank sensor. Have a rough idea of how I'll build the cam sensor out of an old points distributor. If it turns out nice like I want I'll post some pics of it. Seems like a good plan, other than the fact I'll have to by another expensive distributor gear... Hopefully it will turn out nice, AND work right....

Looking good! So the Suoer Victor is already setup for a EFI. That’s cool. I wanted to keep my shaker so I opted to use a Northwind.

Mark Luhn did a great job on modifying the Northwind. He also sent me the HEFI file for my engine specs today so now with a little more wiring for a fuel pressure sensor and mounting a few more pieces, with a little luck I’ll be finishing about the same time as you.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=819425

Doug yours looks great! And I imagine you'll finish before me by a bit. Don't forget to update your thread here.

Will do. Haven't had time to work on it for a few weeks but plan to get back on it in the morning! I won't finish it completely but should be pretty close after tomorrow.