Locksmith code
 

The person storing a car for me can't find original keyset I gave him..
Ignition and Trunk.

Is there a key code number written somewhere that I can give to a locksmith familiar with these cars?

What is involved with keying the car without destroying the original ignition, door or trunk locks?

I'm not sure how long they did it, but back in the late 50s/early 60s GM door locks had the code stamped on them. If the door isn't locked it is pretty easy to pull the lock.

Isn't the code on the PHS documents?

I have heard the codes were on the PHS documents also. Can ask PHS if '65 has key codes on them.

I can pull the door panel and see if I can read the code on the lock.
Should be the same code as ignition...... which is easier to read?

Who cuts original keys if I provide a code?

My 61 PHS has key code on top line. One code for ign. and another for comp.

But you probably need an old locksmith to know what o do with them. I would be surprised if a GM dealer still has the cutter that used the codes. As I recall it was really a shear the cut off each grove one at a time and was not a cutting wheel like found it most hardware store key cutters.

True, the dealerships had a shear cutter tool that I have had many new keys cut at the local Pontiac dealership where I once worked. The parts manager was so skilled using the key cutter, he could look at the old key, and set the codes just from eyeballing it. There was a set of gauges that were used on the old key to determine the code, but he seldom used them.

This particular dealership used to keep the key codes written on the original delivery paperwork in case an owner lost their keys, They would just go into the office and retrieve the codes from the original paperwork back in the day. Today finding a dealership that still has the original paperwork, with the key codes notated would be like hitting the lottery. Not impossible, but highly unlikely.

Here's some discussion on a forum about key codes for pre-68 GM keys. There was a guy with a book and enough experience to to decode someone's key. If you strike out finding a locksmith with this old info, maybe you could reach out to him?

https://chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showt...hp?tid/141329/

This web site has some codes for pre-68 locks. There is also some useful drawings. Unfortunately, I didn't find anything about where the codes were stamped on the cylinders:

Pages from Lock Manuals

Here's a link to a useful description of post-67 lock cylinders. There's a page showing where codes are stamped on the cylinders and some hints at how to translate codes into keys. Unfortunately this does not cover pre-67 but may give you some insight and some hope. My guess is you'll find the codes in the same place on yours:

Ekl - GM Lock Presentation

Here's another useful site that shows the key groove profiles for the letter codes of the post-67 blanks:

all-about-gm-general-motors-lettered-square-and-round-key-blanks/

Worked at a Pontiac dealer.
You are correct .
It was easy to cut a key by looking at the depth of the cut.

Don't have any keys. Guy taking care of my car lost them.

Is it easier to pull out the ignition or door lock core to give it to a locksmith or mess with finding the code and getting a key cut according to code?

Easier to view the code from the ignition or doorlock?

It's an AC car so I can remove the side dash vent to view the ignition switch.

Here's the image from the file I linked below showing what the codes look like on newer (68-2002?) lock cylinders. If yours are in the same spot, you can guess at possibility of seeing it on the ignition cylinder without removing. Maybe someone with a pre-68 cylinder out of the car could confirm?

If you have this code, someone with the old books can make a key without needing the cylinders.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1607110734

I had the same issue with a car in storage, they lost the keys & had no idea where to look. Fortunately I had a spare set but had to drive home to get them & then back to the storage building.....1 1/2 of hours of driving.....thanks fellas!

If you still have the original locks then you can have a set cut from the phs codes. If no phs then pull a door lock (code stamped on it should match ignition) and pull the glove box lock (for the trunk key) and any competent locksmith can cut them for you. Either way it's a good time to get 2 sets cut & keep a spare set handy.

If the original locks have been changed it gets a little tougher.

Thanks! Forgot that the glove should match the trunk.

Now who can cut a reproduction key according to the lock code?

Found a local company who can cut to code and has blanks. In the worst case, they said just remove a door lock and bring it to them if i cannot find a code.

Use the door lock, its written on the outside of the lock. You can't use the ignition because you have to have the key to get the tumbler out, and thats where the code is. When I store my car I never give them the keys.

Code was stamped on my door lock cylinders for my '64 and it matched the code on the Fremont PHS. Almost positive the key codes are on the '65 Billing History Cards although I'm sure they aren't always legible.

I had an interesting experience with mine.

Had an excellent local locksmith (with decades of experience) in Jacksonville that worked with me.

My ignition switch was not original so I took it to him to get it rekeyed according to the code on my PHS.

There is also info in the Shop Manual so that I was able to "decode" the original keying according to my original door key.

I gave the ignition switch and that info to the locksmith.

But that is when things got goofy.

He looked up my code in his book and saw that the keying for that code was NOTHING like the code I decoded from the actual key.

That's when I took a look at the door lock thinking maybe it had been changed. But turned out it is stamped with the same code shown on the PHS docs.

When I finally figured it out, we were able to discover the actual numeric key code from the cuts on the key and the info in the Shop Manual.

It is possible that the door lock keying was changed sometime in the 25 years prior to me acquiring the GTO while retaining the original stamp coded cylinder.

But in my opinion, the more likely possibility was that when Briggs & Stratton produced my lock set, it was mistakenly coded with the code stamped on the lock. That number was then regurgitated on the Shipping Manifest which was standard procedure. But it was actually keyed to a different numeric code. I don't know the manufacturing process so I don't know how that mistake could have been made but I am convinced that is the most likely scenario.

The lock set was incorrectly coded but the keys matched to the locks so nobody had reason to suspect the lock was miscoded until 40 years later when I went to get my non-original ignition switch keyed to match the door lock.

I could have redone the door locks to match the numeric code stamped on them and matched the ignition switch accordingly. In the end, I chose to keep the keying that I believed to be original (in part because I think the keys are original) and made note of the correct code that matches that keying for my own records even while the door locks are stamped, and the PHS shows, a different code.

It cost me about $25 to get the ignition switch keyed to match the door lock including new keys.

If I ever need another key cut to the code, I just have to remember that the keying doesn't match to the PHS or stamping.

I assume such errors would have been rare so if you do see the key codes on your PHS, most likely your locksmith will be able to cut new keys accordingly.

The code books are readily available and I think I even found them on-line. And cutting the keys is easy vs. rekeying the locks themselves although even that isn't rocket science.

Sounds like you've found a good source so shouldn't be a big deal. Hopefully they will be reasonable on price. If you're lucky he'll even have some original looking B & S key blanks.

Is it easy to see the code written on the door lock with the door panel off or will i need to pull the lock?

I have pulled door and trunk lock or glove box and had keys made in the past.
Extra set of keys are always a good thing to have.
Good luck.

Sent from my Moto Z3 Play using Tapatalk

Store your car at home.

I can't remember if mine had to be removed to see the code or if hadn't been installed yet when I needed to check the code on it.

Attached is the pic of the code stamped on mine ('64). And as posted, while this was also the code on the PHS record, it turned out the keying for the lock did NOT match the code.

I'm thinking you should be able to see it with the door panel off, might need a mirror.

Looks like the Key Codes are not on the '65 Billing History Cards, they are on the Build Sheet, only those that were lucky enough to find a build sheet in their car will have that (Keith Seymore I'm looking at you!).

My 1966 lock codes.

Console, dash glove box and trunk are 8083 which match Billing History.

Ignition and doors are 8147. The Billing History shows 9147, wrong.

My keys are stamped accordingly to the car.

Mistakes were made.

Chris.