Resto-Repair Tip: Steering Box Rebuild
 

The steering boxes in the early Tempests were filled with gear oil to lubricate ball bearings and pitman shaft bushing. As the pitman shaft and steering shaft seals age they begin leaking and steering box will no longer hold gear oil. Filling the steering box with grease will be mostly ineffective as the grease can't flow to where it's needed.
The solution is new seals and pitman shaft bushing. With 101K miles on the car I decided to replace the pitman shaft bushing. The seals and bushing were used on many GM cars of the 60's so they come up on Ebay regularly and the seals are listed on Rock Auto Parts but I didn't see the bushing there.

Pitman shaft seal: 5670325
Steering shaft seal: 7802160
Pitman shaft bushing: 266316

I completely dismantled steering box so I could clean all the old sludge out of it. The steering shaft and carriage assembly might be able to be cleaned by soaking in a solvent rather than taking all those ball bearings out. I painted everything while apart.
I found a socket to use to press old bushing out. Once new bushing is pressed in the new seals can be installed.
The steering shaft is assembled into housing first. I put a little bit of gear oil on both ball bearing assemblies so it wouldn't be going back together dry.
The large adjuster plug will need to have its threads sealed or they will leak. I used a brush-on paste. Don't cote all of the threads because about 1/2" sticks out where locking ring goes on.
I also made a new gasket for the top cover from gasket material I had on hand.
My steering box has been holding gear oil for about 3 years now and hasn't leaked a drop.

Starter Rebuild
 

A lot more wears out on a starter motor than the brushes. I used the kit in the link below to do a complete starter rebuild. It is a very complete kit.
I removed my original Delco-Remy solenoid end cover and put it on the aftermarket solenoid. See third pic. It fit perfect and doesn't have the extra unused post.
The seller has kits for any starter even tractors.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/13266899887...MAAOSw4WRbJ~ZV

Wow nice thank you for the info.

Please send this information to the Little Indians club Newsletter editor and the president. Sounds like a great tech article for the newsletter, that then can be archived in the tech section of their web site. And the president is working on a parts source list for our cars.

You're welcome! Glad to share. I will be adding more.

If someone from LIC wants to archive any of the info I'm posting, they are welcome to. I started this thread to share part #'s and sources I've found over the years. I will be adding more.

Is gear lube the factory recommend lube for the manual box?
I bought Champion lube from Ecklers which I have not used yet. When I cleaned and resealed the F/S manual box on my Safari I used a little wheel bearing grease as an assembly lube only. I read several placed that 90W gear lube would eventually leak.

BTW, you do awesome work!

Safari Rear Seat Hinge Repair
 

When I bought my car the upper portion of rear seat was no longer attached because 5 of the 8 rivets holding the hinges together had sheared off.
I found a company called Jay-Cee Sales & Rivet, Inc. They had the exact rivet I needed to repair my hinges. Rivets have a 1/2" dia. flat head, 3/4" long x 1/4" dia shaft. They are annealed (hardened).
I used a torch to head up the end of the rivet and then mushroomed the end with a hammer.
I had to buy 100 so I have a few extras if anyone needs some.

RIVETSINSTOCK.COM They have any rivet you might need.

Thanks! So you haven't filled your steering box yet?
I checked my owners manual and shop manual and neither say what's in the steering box. The shop manual says fluid never needs to be changed but doesn't say what it is. The differential and manual transmissions take gear oil so that's what I used in my steering box.
So if what you read is true, will all my new differential seals eventually start leaking?
I've never heard of the Champion lube. Is the "00" a measure of viscosity?

Sparkplug Wire Loom Bracket
 

The 4-cyl. sparkplug wire loom is not reproduced. On most originals the rubber coating has dried up and flaked off.
I sandblasted my bracket and painted it silver. I then dipped it in a product called "Plasti Dip" which gives it a rubberized coating.

Staples
 

In order to sandblast steel parts that have rubber pieces stapled to them I would remove all old staples. I also sandblast all rubber parts to clean them.
I made new staples using 18 gauge galvanized steel wire. This is the gauge originally used. I would hand form each staple using a pair of needle nose pliers. I would make them extra long and after staple is inserted through steel & rubber I trim them down to final length. I then use the tip of the needle nose pliers and curl over the end of each staple.
Fan shrouds were only used on the 61 & 62 Tempests with A/C.
The 3 pieces shown in 3rd picture help to seal along the bottom of radiator and were only used on A/C cars.
The part shown in last 2 pictures is the stone guard that goes behind rear quarter to protect gas tank filler neck.

Wiper Cowl Screws
 

The wiper cowl is secured using 5 sheet metal screws with attached washer. The firewall insulation pad uses the same screws and because they are protected up under the dash they are usually in good condition. So I used my firewall insulation screws to attach wiper cowl and I cleaned and painted some screws to attach new firewall pad.

Sheet Metal Screws
 

The type of screws and bolts used extensively on the early tempests are called "Indented Hex head". Shown below are pictures of parts attached using #10 x 3/4" indented hex head screws and #10 flat washers. Flat washers are a common size #10. Screws shown in link below.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352366615750

Keep it going it’s perfect I took my car apart in one day 10 years ago. Now on reassembly it’s like where does everything go? Thank you!!

I used Plastic-Dip to refurbish the spark plug wire looms on my Bonneville, it works well and was easy to do. Those indented hex head were probably used on many GM cars of the era, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up some spares on your next visit to the junkyard.

If you need to see pics of areas, parts, assemblies that I haven't shown, let me know.

The link posted below is for correct style sealant tip screws used on Tempests to secure vent window frames to door window frames.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/152795355966

Windshield Wiper Blade Refills
 

The type of wiper arm used on the early Tempest are called "latch pin". There is a small red button that you depress to remove yoke to insert new refill.
Refills can be found on Ebay using search words "LP-15 Wiper". Most packaging for NOSR blade refills show how to install new blades.

Thank you again!! I ordered the bolts and screws you recommended on eBay. This will save me a ton of time during re-assembly. realizing what I will need for re-assembly I have to stop during just to order little pieces of hardware. I’m actually getting excited about putting my car together now.

Sheetmetal Screws
 

As I restored pieces and parts for my car I would try to collect all screws, washers, bolts, etc. needed as I went along.
The sheet metal screws used to attach all front end sheet metal are a #14 x 3/4" indented hex head screw with a 3/8" head. A #14 is the same as a 1/4".
This size is also used to attach fan finger guard.
Below is a link for this hardware. I also have a few of these available with washers if you know how many you need.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401544365727

Keys Cut To Code
 

After searching for 3 years I finally found a tailgate lock for my 62 Tempest wagon. As I expected, it did not come with a key. I already knew that a good locksmith with Curtis code books could punch out a new key using the 4 digit code stamped in door, trunk and liftgate lock cases.

I decided to look on Ebay for a key blank before searching for a local locksmith that could cut it to code. I stumbled across an Ebay seller who will supply a repop GM key and cut it to code for $9.99 + shipping.(I just realized seller now has shipping included in price). You just need to find his listing that covers the code range for your key and select it from a drop down list. Seller has listings for primary and secondary keys.

I had my new key 3 days after ordering. The seller guaranties keys will work as long as you give him the correct code.

I put the new key in the lock and it did not work! I sprayed WD-40 into the lock and blew air into it to blow out any excess. I put the key back into it and wiggled it around for a couple seconds and it opened. The lock was stuck from sitting out in the elements for decades and not being used.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20347695278...3ABFBM8s-eueRh