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-   -   th 400 transmission (https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=447621)

redline88 01-22-2003 11:09 AM

what's a fair price to pay for a complete rebuild of a th400?

redline88 01-22-2003 11:09 AM

what's a fair price to pay for a complete rebuild of a th400?

428GTO70 01-22-2003 02:50 PM

Thats all dependant on whats getting done I guess. I paid 300 to get mine rebuilt but I could have spent more at a different place that would have added some upgrades and stuff for like 650.

http://www.mensexpo.com.futuresite.r...s/tigeranm.gif
GR-RRR!

Cliff R 01-22-2003 09:13 PM

The price can vary greatly. What it typical with transmission rebuilding is that you get very little for your dollar spent. Most transmission shops will replace very little beyond rubber and paper in the trans and call it a "rebuilt" unit. Most of the steels and friction and bands will come from spare parts, nicely used and in decent shape. They will even insist that they replaced EVERYTHING! I'll list what it done here to a TH400 during correct preparation for high performance use. Full set of bushings, thrustwashers, steels, frictions, low sprag, int sprag (34 element and early drum if needed), seals, gaskets, shift kit, both bands (hd), governor gear, new modulator and a filter. Short apply pistons are added to both drums for maximum friction capacity. Just a ballpark figure for parts is about $450, more or less depending on the year of the transmission and the type of direct drum used. The later units are more expensive as they use the roller clutch in lieu of the sprag type and must be replaced. Planetaries are also closely inspected and replaced as needed. Final cost for a correctly prepared unit will be $550 to about $700. I'm constantly price shopped and have heard at least 1000 times that they can get them "rebuilt" elsewhere for $250 dollars (or less)......Cliff

redline88 01-22-2003 09:38 PM

thanks guys

Roge13 04-06-2024 12:04 AM

Best BOP TH400 High Performance Street/Strip trans filter
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cliff R (Post 2202705)
The price can vary greatly. What it typical with transmission rebuilding is that you get very little for your dollar spent. Most transmission shops will replace very little beyond rubber and paper in the trans and call it a "rebuilt" unit. Most of the steels and friction and bands will come from spare parts, nicely used and in decent shape. They will even insist that they replaced EVERYTHING! I'll list what it done here to a TH400 during correct preparation for high performance use. Full set of bushings, thrustwashers, steels, frictions, low sprag, int sprag (34 element and early drum if needed), seals, gaskets, shift kit, both bands (hd), governor gear, new modulator and a filter. Short apply pistons are added to both drums for maximum friction capacity. Just a ballpark figure for parts is about $450, more or less depending on the year of the transmission and the type of direct drum used. The later units are more expensive as they use the roller clutch in lieu of the sprag type and must be replaced. Planetaries are also closely inspected and replaced as needed. Final cost for a correctly prepared unit will be $550 to about $700. I'm constantly price shopped and have heard at least 1000 times that they can get them "rebuilt" elsewhere for $250 dollars (or less)......Cliff

So Cliff, I’ve asked SEVERAL Facebook groups now without any luck at all!! So I’m your opinion, what would be the best trans filter I can use for my 75 Formula with a little upgraded Th400. Keep in mind, it has an 8.5” 10 bolt with 4.56 gears and the car is driven to and from the dragstrip (roughly 1-1.5) hour drive one way. So needless to say, Dad used to stop the car 2 to 3 times to cool that th400 off before getting to the strip. Plan here soon is replace the 4.56’s with 3.42’s and also add and transmission cooler in front of the radiator. I remember when the old man Jim Butler was still running Butler Performance in Leoma Tennessee and he had suggested to Dad to actually run 3.42’s from the get go, Dad was just wanting absolutely everything he could get out of it. Well now that I’m building a new stronger motor, I’m hoping the 3.42’s with a 28” tall tire will go through the finish line almost wound tight in 2nd gear and still have high left to cruise home. So Cliff, what filter would you recommend for my th400 that’s in the car now?

Cliff R 04-06-2024 06:32 AM

I've never had any issues drag racing with the stock type filters. A lot of racers like the 64-67 style.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/28123281540...Bk9SR9KClq_WYw


There are also deep pan options to add a couple more quarts of fluid.

Since I've never manages to uncover the stock filter and pan I never tried anything else.

As far as the trans fluid getting hot and requiring cooling off periods, never had that happen either, but I don't use converters with "loose" characteristics on the street.....

Half-Inch Stud 04-06-2024 08:32 AM

Ahem. After a rebuuild of any quality, use the "auto store cheap" fabric filter for about 300 miles. THEN switch to the screen (brass or stainless) filter.

Could use another fabric filter but that 1st filter's life depends on the clutch and steel materials and newness. Some new frictions release a bunch of micro-bits that gunk-up/clog the fabric filter.

Rebuilds: i still do em (north AL). Toughest cost for me is case clean and prep ($120 or more). + rebuild effort ($200) + parts costs (usually a smoking deal on shelf spares.

The last rebuild ran into lack of a Front Pump core. Buyer willing to buy a $300 rebuilt front pump, but i said wait until we find another core, or we'll use my last minty 121 Pump. Well we found a core in a car, but he's been busy, no hurry but my bench is occupied. Maybe soon.

As for my opinion: TH400 builds seem more practical to do that rebuilding Q-JETs.

Cliff R 04-07-2024 08:52 AM

I'm going to do one TH400 build this year even though I'm pretty much retired from all of that. It's for a good friend and customer and will end up in his FAST Class early Firebird.

The last time I did a TH400 it was just shy of $1000 parts and labor. This included a 4L80E drum with a 34 element sprag, spiral lock ring, and steel apply piston with molded seals on it. I also replaced all the bushings, thrust washers, torrington bearings in addition to steels/frictions, both bands, sealing rings, seals, gaskets and small parts.

I did notice that the price of parts has just about doubled post COVID, so that number will be considerably hiring on the next one.......

Half-Inch Stud 04-07-2024 09:32 PM

OMG, just noticed your 73 Ventura SOLD.

Cliff R 04-10-2024 07:01 AM

Yep, it was spending WAY too much time sitting on my lift and not enough time being driven. I really don't miss it much, had lots of fun with the car over the years, but since retiring I've changed direction with a lot of things and was spending very little if any time with musclecar stuff.

These days I'm spending most of my time raising grand kids and getting to my bucket-list of projects I couldn't get anywhere near when I was working all the time.

I kept the parts sales part of the business open and do that four days a week and couple of weekends a month I'll take it a cash & carry job for the Bourbon fund.......


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