70 GP engine removal
 

I'm getting ready to pull my engine and transmission out ,and i was wondering if it could be removed from the car in one peace ? it looks like it could. any one ever done that?
Thanks David

David, Yes it can and is generally the preferred method. Just be sure to have another person to help you to guide the trans out from from under the firewall.

remove radiator and shroud so you dont break it very easy 6 bolts and it will be a piece of cake

Its the only way to go. Much easier than removing bellhousing bolts from below!

Thank You Gents ,,,,,thats the way ill do it then.

Steps in Engine Removal
 

Hi,

This is an old thread, but want to remove motor in my 72 GP. I am fine with radiator, shroud, etc, but can someone list out steps, best practices? I have never removed a motor and would rather not mess with the trans. (other than bell housing bolts, of course). Then thinking ahead when reinstalling, how hard is it to line up bell housing to reinstall? Is that why its easier to remove both motor and trans at the same time?

Thank you

From someone that has done it both ways, and made my living for decades as a mechanic. Leave the transmission in the chassis take the 6 bellhousing bolts out, and 3 torque convertor bolts out. Split the 2 units and pull the engine separately. You may have to come in from the side on your GP, most engine cranes won't reach from the front because of the long nose on the GP, along with the extra engine setback.

If you look in my signature pictures you'll notice a 69 GP race car, I pulled engines in and out of that car for the 3 years I raced it pretty regularly. Pulling just the engine and using a ratchet strap from frame rail to frame rail under the transmission to support the transmission after removing the engine, works just fine. Reinstall, you can raise the transmission up to meet the engine with a floor jack. It's not that hard to get the two units lined up upon reinstallation, just take your time.

One of the biggest obstacles is getting the hood off , and on of a GP, they weigh a ton. Make sure you have some help. The rest is just unhooking wires, hoses, exhaust, motor mounts, throttle cables, battery cables etc. If you look up in a Motors/Chilton online manual, it will give you each, and every step of the operation in sequence. Anyone that has some background working on cars can figure it out pretty easily.

I always leave the transmission in the car, others will tell you they pull the two out together. Having done it both ways, multiple times, I'm pretty sure I know which way is faster, and easier for me. The more mass/weight you have hanging in the air, the harder it is to move the engine crane around, especially with only 1 person.

Leaving the transmission in the chassis, you don't have to pull the driveshaft, speedometer cable, cooling lines, transmission mount, shift linkage, and many times, the transmission crossmember. No transmission fluid on the floor either, and no refill when you put it back together. It saves $20 on fluid, and oil dry. Your chances are probably 50/50 that you'll end up losing at least some transmission fluid when pulling the 2 units as one. Even if you have a dummy yoke to shove into the rear of the transmission, somehow they slip out at the most inopportune times during the procedure. Cleaning up 3-4 quarts of transmission fluid is no picnic.

It may be good time for preventative maintenance to put a new seal in the front pump while you can remove the torque convertor in the car, but be sure you get the convertor fully seated into the pump if you decide to do this operation before you reinstall the engine. Failure to seat the convertor, can ruin your transmission pump in seconds. You Tube video will show you how to make sure the convertor is fully seated before engine reinstall.

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...seated+in+pump

Hope this helps you out. :thumbup:

Thank you really helpful info!

Many years ago I bought an engine tilter that is awesome. You hook it to the back and front of the cylinder heads and connect it to the cherry picker. You can tilt the engine as you lift, allowing one person to do the R & R.

The next step up in ease of operation compared to the engine tilter which in itself is an awesome tool is the Mac’s Pivot Plate.

The engine tilters can run into the firewall and cranking them is difficult sometimes, depending on the angle when you’re lifting high the crank can interfere with the hoist boom.

The Mac’s Pivot Plate is just so much easier to use. I paid a little more than $150 for mine about 5 years ago.

Price is about $225 ish now days Amazon, and other places ...need to get one of these. Thx

If you have a few trusted buddies who can use one split the cost and share it between you.

I've seen the ones that bolt onto the carb. The bolts are a little small for my taste when you're putting engine and tranny in together, especially if you have an aluminum intake.

Mike