1966 Grand Prix - refresh, rebuild, upgrade fun
 

Been a while since I've posted here. Thought I'd summarize what I've been doing Bought this car in 2015, and after some maintenance, I was able to enjoy driving it. Since that time I started collecting parts that one day I would add to the car. I came up with a plan to finally get started, so in Jan/2022 I began, Not surprising, as I took the care apart, the list of things I needed to do grew. Condensed summary follows. Many long, dirty, greasy, dusty hours involved.

On the initial list:

-Add several more options to an already nicely optioned car
-Pull the motor, detail it and the engine compartment/components'
-Factory 4 speed conversion w/console and Muncie M20

1. Option installs - Decided to do as much as possible before pulling the motor, completed these first:

-Added power drivers seat track, pass. recliner and headrests to my original seat set.
-Added rear defogger and vacuum deck lid release

2. Engine compartment - With the motor out I determined I had much more to do than I thought, and figured now is the time

-Pulled the motor/trans, wheel wells, grilles and bumper, AC condenser, and everything else off the firewall.
-Rebuilt entire front suspension, found one A arm had been bent when shaft bushing installed years back, Found a good replacement from Franks
-Stripped / prepped firewall, frame, wheel wells, and yea continued underneath to the rear bumper. Car had been undercoated and was now flaking off, surface rusting etc.
-Made a new sheet metal support that sits under the battery tray (wheel well to radiator support) which has rusted out
-Painted frame, suspension parts, firewall, radiator support, wheel wells, floorboards, gas tank, exhaust.
-Power brake booster rebuilt/painted, new lower bearing in the steering column
-Welded Z bar bracket to frame after determining location.
- Driveshaft painted and has new universals and slip yoke

3. Motor currently being worked on:

-Will replace timing chain set, water pump
-Media blast intake, valley pan, oil pan, all other related
-Helicoiled broken bolt in timing case
-Heads taken apart, blasted, getting new valve seals, valves cleaned up.
-Planning on advancing the cam 4 degrees with the Cloyes adjustable timing set I bought.

I have many pictures, some detailing specific parts of the work, maybe they will help someone, but here's just a few for now.

coming along nicely...good work

Nice job the engine compartment looks great.

Thanks for commenting... So busy working on this car, totally forgot I posted. I need to do a huge update here.

Looks like you have a great project going and you will love the 4-speed in that car. I owned a 4-speed 66 2+2 for 19 years and it was one of my favorite cars. Only one thing caught my attention and I wanted to mention to you. You said the lifter valley cover was media blasted for reuse. The ONLY way to successfully do this process is to have all the welds removed, media blast it and then weld it back together. IMO, there is zero chance of getting all the sand/glass beads/walnut shells, even the soda out of that cover without opening it up. Just wouldn't want you to put it back on with media inside and ruin your engine. If you don't have the means to open it up, I would buy a new one. Good luck with the project. Great car.

Great looking engine bay.

Engine bay looks great, what did you use for paint?

Thanks again for the comments, guys. I'll answer previous questions here:

Appreciate the tip on blasting the valley pan. The inside was perfectly clean, so I sealed the openings and did a light blast on a few spots. I did power wash it afterwards, hopefully nothing got inside.

Regarding the paint used, it was all Rust-Oleum spray cans. I should've used at least a catalyzed clear on the wheel wells for more durability. I noticed AC compressor oil will wrinkle the paint.

Drivetrain is back in, and just got the interior back in after much work inside the car. I'll post more soon.

Since my last update in March I have made great progress though, as usual, roadblocks and detours abound. Dealing with them pretty well I'd guess.

Motor is back together after a standard valve job, cleaned, valves cleaned/cut, new seals, I had a buddy help me with them. Advanced the can 4 degrees, replaced the rear main seal with the 2 piece BOP Viton seal. High anxiety here, fingers crossed I did it right. Just finishing the final assembly in the engine compartment..

Interior is back in, this was a major milestone. Months of planning, and work finally pay off. The hole I cut for the shifter looks perfect, shifter porch lined up nicely, Had to replace the ash tray with the standard one vs the chrome one used in the auto console, and I couldnt match the paint to the rest of the lower dash so I painted the entire lower. Filled 2 holes next to the ignition switch that probably was from a CB radio bracket. Painted the giant dash pad as it was tired but no cracks. new wood veneer on the dash and console. Cleaned up some wiring under the dash. Installed the reclining passenger seat and power drivers seat. Trimmed and formed the rug around the porch. Not perfect but I am very happy with the total picture,

looks great, very cool car

Decided to rebuild the starter. Noticed the primary field wire to one of the brushes was frayed so replaced it, the Bendix drive, brushes, solenoid and other associated parts. Used quality parts from a PY member who I bought parts from for my '63 starter some years ago.

Installed the starter, wiring, heat shield, and long branch manifolds before dropping the motor in.

Reclining seat in action and OEM headrests that were added also.

One big question mark I have which I have been taking some heat about is adding my vacuum gauge back to the manual console which I did use previously on the auto console. Some say it's too much but I believe this car is already past that with it's current option list ;)

Vacuum gauges are always awesome! I've got one sitting on the shelf for when I put the GTO together. Put it in!

How hard was it to upfit the passenger bucket with the recliner mechanism? Any pics or advice? I have one to use in my 2+2, but it does not look like an obvious fit-up project.

I'm sure there are a few tricks and it all goes together - wondering how it went for you.

Thanks!

I have a question. Is the gold plating on the brake booster factory on a 66 or is it painted black? I ask because I have 2 66 boosters that are black. I'd like to refinish one but would want to refinish it in the correct finish.

I have had 2 full size 66 survivor type cars in the shop in the last 6 months. Both boosters were zinc dichromate finish, (gold). They were both Delco boosters. The 66 cars also used some Bendix brake boosters. They are easily identified by being screwed together at the parting line, not a twist lock. I believe but am not positive, they were painted black. Hope this helps.

As mgarblik mentioned, yes, I believe this one should be the gold plating finish. I didnt want to send mine out so I used the Eastwood kit which comes with the gold paint, and red and green accent paints. It produces a different finish but it's a big improvement over what it looked like prior. Sorta looks like a ceramic coating but I like it and its protected.

Hey, yes I have many pix and since I've done this twice now (first time in the 80s on my GTO) got pretty intimate with the process :)

First time I only had the seat back, this time I had an entire donor seat. I retrofitted the recliner parts into my exiting seat both times. I'll say the most difficult part was removing the seat back hinges from the non-recliner seat frame as they are spot welded from the factory. Interesting that the reclining seat hinges are bolted to the frame and both seat frames have existing holes so once you carefully remove the hinges as to not destroy the frame the hinges bolt in.

If you're on the Facebook, you can see my detailed post on my garage page, look for my Feb 2022 posts.
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100077993492503
If not, I can send you details

Happy to help, let me know
Ken