More S-10 help please.
 

I posted a thread a while back asking for starting help on a 2001 S-10 truck and was given a good bit of advice.
Here is where I am at now. I installed a new tank, filter and fuel pump. Still no start so I ran a pressure test on the new pump and it passed. Static pressure held at about 55 PSI.
Still no start. When I took the pressure tester back to the parts store I was asked if the injectors were getting a firing signal. How do I check that? Please explain this in terms that an old man without any knowledge of fuel injection can understand. Pictures would help if they are in color!:D
Thanks, in advance for any and all help.

Do not know if this helps, but I have a 1997 S-10 , 4.3 V6/5-speed, with the throttle body injection. I experienced a no-start situation as my truck was sitting in my yard idling and it just quit. I knew it was not the fuel pump as I replaced it in the past. Poured a little cap full of gas down the throttle body throat, and no start, not even a hiccup. So began to look at spark.

Some of these cars, not sure which ones, can have a fuse for the fuel pump. Check yours to see if you have one or not. A guy at work went through doing fuel issue replacement parts on a 1992 S-10 4- cyl only to find out it was a fuse. Spent money and time he did not need to.

In my instance, I had power going to my coil, but could not seem to get any spark/arc out of it - at least with my testing means, Replaced it, and no change. Then I replaced another electrical component on the firewall, no change. Not an issue as with the age of my truck, I had no problem installing new parts anyway. Then I installed a new electronic module in the distributor - still no change, BUT, I noticed the reluctor wheel was a little loose and I had rust throughout the distributor. Rather than replace more individual distributor parts and thinking the reluctor wheel should not be loose, I purchased a rebuilt distributor from Advance Auto. Installed it and the engine fired right up and runs the best it ever has. I did not want to buy a new computer IF it had gone bad, and was going to just "old school" the engine with a 2 Bbl carb and earlier HEI distributor and be done with it - my truck runs great and only 63,000 miles, just old.

So you may not have a fuel problem. Check for the fuse, then consider it could be an ignition problem.

It will run briefly if I use a little gas or starter fluid.

My first test was for you to try and start it with starter fluid. The fact that it starts and runs tells you lots of things. The ignition system works! If the ignition system works, it is very likely the injector is firing. Basically, you have 2 possible problems. I assume this is a VIN W engine with the spider injection system not the regular TBI unit. The spider injection system needs 64-65 PSI fuel pump pressure to overcome the spring pressure in the spider injectors. They are electro-mechanical. If the fuel presure is 55-62 PSI no fuel is being injected. If you used an Airtex fuel pump, that is your problem, Walbro, Carter are crap also. IMO, you MUST use the exact correct AC Delco pump or Delphi pump on these trucks. Any other is a crap shoot. Start there. Good luck. A good test of the entire circuit is to hook a old school headlight bulb with jumper leads to the + - leads of the fuel pump connector and cycle the key. The headlight MUST burn bright, a dim headlight is a weak ground path for the fuel pump at the frame. Very common on S-10-S10 Blazer. A test light WILL NOT WoRK. It doesn't draw enough amperage to properly test the circuit. Check the ground.

Check fuel pump relay...

It is a W vin code motor. But, I am a little confused on one point you posted. I went to several online sites about the spider system and they stated 45-55 PSI if I remember correctly. I know I didn't see one with the 64-65 PSI. I am not doubting your word, like I said. just a little confused.
I bought a new tank and fuel pump combo off the internet. I am sure it is not a Delco pump. I am just trying to see if this motor is any good.
Would a replacement Delco pump fit the plastic body on any other brand?

I did some further searching and found a good S-10 site and it does say the pressure should be 60-66PSI. Thank you for your help.

" I was asked if the injectors were getting a firing signal. How do I check that?"

Most if not all Fuel Injectors have power(12v) while cranking the ECU will send out a ground to fire off the injector. So simply put a test light on the injector wire that is common(same color) to all the injectors it should have power while cranking. If they have power then put your test light clamp on the positive terminal of battery and probe the other wire of the injector it should blink. every time the ecu sends a ground. ck all injectors. If this checks out your problem is elsewhere.

Possibly a little more help. You didn't mention if this was an S10 or an S10 Blazer. If it's an S10 and not rusty, removing the bed gives you excellent access to the pump and wiring from the top. If a blazer, this is not an option. Before you go to all the work of removing the pump again, first verify a good ground to the frame/chassis as I mentioned in first post. If you are convinced the ground is good, best verified with headlight jumper, then yes the tank/pump will have to come out again. Sorry, I do not know if fitment/wiring is compatible with internet aftermarket pumps. I can verify that these electro-mechanical poppet type injectors are very sensitive to minimal required fuel pressure. A correct pump will make just over 100 PSI, un-regulated. That's one reason they are so noisy. Once you get a proper fuel pump in and enough fuel pressure, if it still doesn't run, you will need a new spider assembly. Genuine GM replacements are available from a variety of sources, even Rock Auto. The new replacement unit is a direct replacement for the old electro-mechanical unit but does away with the poppet valves. The new unit has little electrical injectors placed on the end of 6 little fuel lines, (straws). The new unit is trouble free, runs a little better and is a direct replacement, connectors and all. Total replacement time is a couple hours. If you plan to keep the truck for the long haul, doing this retro-fit makes these trucks a very nice vehicle. I have replaced dozens of these and zero comebacks. Around here, these trucks rust away over time and there are fewer and fewer on the road. Good luck with it.

On my old 1980 Datsun, a quick check to see if the injectors are firing is the old long screwdriver handle to the ear, blade to the injector base. When someone turns the ignition over, you should hear a rhythmic 'ticking' of the injector solenoid.

Was curious if you got your little truck running?

NO. I have put it on the back burner while I try to get my GTO in the paint shop. I need to rent the fuel pressure gauge again and check the pressure at the tank line into the filter.

Let us know when you get back to it.