Quick drying Gloss Black Rattle can
 

Can anyone recommend a TYPE of rattle can paint that is glossy and dries fast, and is relatively easy to remove?

I want to practice some paintless dent removal and I need a quick and easy gloss paint to paint the panels with. Lacquer?

That’s what I’d use. Cheap lacquer in a spray can.


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certain brands of enamel paints... krylon is a very fast drying paint, something like 8 minutes to touch & 30 to handle. cheap too at about $3-4/can.

If you're using "Paintless Dent Repair", why would you need paint? :Ithink:

better reflection from the lights than an unpainted panel??

I was thinking enamel would be harder to remove, lacquer goes on pretty thin. Occasionally I'll pick up a random can of paint that dries incredibly fast, think it's usually lacquer ... often cheapo auto touch up paint I think.

You want the "original" Krylon Black Semi gloss. It is lacquer like.
Very hard to find Krylon anywhere today on a shelf, not sure why...
It is available mail order.

Krylon & Rust Oleum still make a gloss black lacquer (specifically called out on can label) and less than $5 can at Lowe’s or HD...

Thank you gentlemen, I'll try some of that.

Spot On. Need to have a shiny surface to watch the dents as they are worked out. Observed an absolute PDR Master work the hail dents out of my truck. Then he performed some serious magic on the LH bedside of a collision damage aluminum bodied F-150.

yep, i watched a PDR master fix a dent in the door of my 81 t/a. after a fresh repaint stupid me opened the door of my other car i had parked too close next to it in the garage, hit it right on the middle body line & thought for sure i would have to repaint the whole door to fix it.

in less than an hour he was able to just barely squeeze the tool in between the inner impact bar & back side of the door skin & work out the dent... it was a sharp crease on the body line & he said he wasnt sure he could get it all the way out but it was almost impossible to see unless you knew where it was. was neat watching the lines from the light come back into place.

Duplicolor makes a gloss back lacquer in rattle can. Dries fast and smells like crap. :)

https://www.duplicolor.com/product/premium-lacquer/

I think Duplicolor was the brand of can I pulled off the shelf one day to coat something quick to prevent rust or something. I was amazed that it was dry in about 1 min and didn't look bad either ... was definitely an auto touchup paint of some kind.

Making my own line panel using laminated printer paper with the lines printed on them. Going to affix them to some thin clear plexi, make an adapter to hold it in one of my magnetic indicator holders. Ordered some 1/2" round 4130 to make some tools from, in the past made them from 1/2 round mild steel, a little too easy to bend. I drill and tap a hole in the end, screw in a stud that extends out about 3/8", then I can use the lathe to make numerous types of tips out of all the plastic rounds I have. Ordered some tabs and glue, already have a nice gun, can easily fabricate a selection of "bridges" for pulling, slide hammers, and tappers.

Just kind of doing it for fun, figure any little dent I can improve will be that much less filler needed. In case I'm a failure at it ... I wonder if a PDR guy can work on bare steel with just a coat of gloss paint on it .... seems like it might make sense to invest a bit and have as many of the dents as possible removed before any body work starts.

Thanks for the recommendations ... got some Krylon and it worked great. Jeez after hitting it with some cleaner wax it was tempting to keep going and paint the whole car, that stuff buffs out nice.

Bare steel panel?
I'd use a body file for that. No lights needed.

For small dings where you have access to the back side, I'd use a pick hammer and dolly and then the body file for checking the flatness. If no access to the back side, use the glue PDR method and then the body file. A wide tipped sharpie can fill your low spot with black ink and be helpful too.

I'm just playing around ... trying my hand at it. Have a few dings in my late model vehicles I'd like to try before I trade them in.

Last year I got hail damage on my El Camino. My insurance paid me off but of course, I had to fix it myself since I wouldn't trust anyone else to repair one of my hobby cars that I had painted in the first place.

So, I bought both a rod PDR kit and a glue pulling kit with a light. I tried the rods and quickly learned that this wasn't for me and returned the kit for a refund.
I had some success with the glue kit but couldn't make perfect. Like our GTOs, my El Camino is 20 gauge sheetmetal and my belief is PDR would be a lot easier on late model cars with thinner sheetmetal. I don't know but I'm thinking newer cars are probably 22 or maybe even 24 gauge.

What I was able to accomplish with the glue kit was to get the dings out far enough so when I block sanded the paint, I could get it perfectly flat without cutting through to the primer. I blocked using a long sanding block with 400 paper dry. Then I just sprayed 2 coats of new paint.

The damage was limited to the tailgate and 1 quarter panel since the car was parked in my back garage with the garage door open when the hail storm hit.
The storm came so fast it caught me unprepared to be able to get out there and close the door before the storm hit.

For painting, I removed the tailgate. I painted the entire quarter panel and blended the paint up into the sail panel. It worked well.

My wife was watching me work on a small dent on the GTO and said " maybe the metal on the old cars is too thick to fix like this" She's smarter than she looks ... and she's watched a few PDR videos with me :)

I can already tell there is no "massaging" the metal on the GTO like you see on that late model cars for a perfect finish ... but I have been able to lessen the depth of the dents some. Haven't tried the glue yet. Bought some of the good stuff, and some tabs, and finished machining the adapter to use with my slider hammer but haven't tried it yet.

If you had been successful, I would have not have thought highly of myself for having failed! The glue and slide hammer isn't fast, easy or perfect but does work somewhat. Yep, your wife is smart.

I've noticed the way they kind of row/rake/rub the tip of the tool across the inside to final smooth the surface, nah that just ain't happening with this thicker metal. Another issue is these older cars rarely have the slick primer inner coating on the metal, instead they have some deadener, overspray or surface rust ... so no smooth rubbing action is going to take place, more like a grinding scraping motion :)

But, I can see how it's worthwhile to have a few of the tools around to attempt the odd improvement of a dent.