Heat Wrap ?
 

I finally got my body back on the frame and everything went well but not real happy with the clearance between exhaust where it goes over the rear end and the fuel lines as they kind of cross each other at that point. What might be the best way to protect the fuel lines from the heat of the exhaust? There is only around an inch clearance. If you look at the picture before I put the body on, you can kind of see what I'm talking about near the spring tower. I don't really want to wrap the nice stainless exhaust pipe but not fully opposed either. Best options? Thanks.

https://i.imgur.com/opzF9YI.jpg

You're using rubber fuel lines?

That's the first thing I noticed, too. I'm not liking what I'm seeing in terms of line routing, or the excessive spacing between retaining clips that results in the hoses drooping. Seems like they are going to be flopping around quite a bit, which is never a good thing. If a fuel hose settles down and starts resting on an exhaust tube, you could have a car-b-que on your hands.

At any rate, there are a number of thermal hose sleeves available on the market. Just do a google search for "fuel hose thermal sleeve" and you will find a number of options.

I'd be moving the fuel lines.

If you're using aeroquip line or something equivalent (I hope) it would be pretty easy to route or move the lines pretty much anywhere you please.

I pretty much follow the factory routing with it and have plenty of exhaust clearance even on the 3" exhaust stuff.

Another option would be to buy the pre-bent stainless lines from places like Inline Tube for example. Now's the time on an A-body to put those on before the body is dropped back on the frame.

Unfortunately, I think it's already too late for him. He said in his first post that he put the body back on the frame. If that was not the case and the body was still off, I'd 100% say redo the fuel lines with metal. It took me no longer than an hour to hand bend the full length 3/8" ni-cop fuel lines on my '66 frame before I put the body back on, and the results look very professional despite it being my first time doing that task. I think some people get spooked by the thought of bending metal lines and decide on rubber hoses as a result.

re routing the lines & changing to metal would be ideal... but if you dont want to do that then check jegs or summit for heat wrap or heat tape, all kinds of relatively cheap options. if you dint want to unhook one end of the line to slide a true heat jacket over it, they sell heat wrap that is split down the center & uses heavy duty velcro to close it back up. or real heat tape with adhesive on the back to wrap around the line.

& you dont want or need to wrap the exhaust pipe, its best to wrap the line itself & uses less or smaller material. also that far back in the exhaust the pipes arent really "that" hot so a layer of the cheaper/thinner stuff will be more than enough. heres the split velcro stuff from summit...

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...asummit-racing

I'm installing the Snyper fuel injection and that's what it comes with and recommends. I consulted with my local street rod shop and they use them with no ill effects.

Thanks, I think that's what I'm looking for. Also, I was able to re-route the lines a little so they're not closer than 3" or so from exhaust pipe now.

Yup, too late now LOL Body is back on


https://i.imgur.com/RNZOB0j.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zbKX3zD.jpg

The one line looks very high. You don't want a line rubbing on something over time.

Nothing really hooked up in that picture. Final routing is nice and tight and secure all along lines. I think I solved the issue by re-routing away from tail pipe. Thanks for the input guys. Now on the rest of the project.

You should be able to get a good 5 years or so out of those fuel lines if all goes well. Nothing at all to worry about. They don't chafe or pinch or rub or get cut by road debris or anything like that, not at all. The factory steel lines were just overkill anyway. I mean they're just high pressure lines carrying flammable liguid running the length of your car right?

I would remove the X pipe.. They really take that nice throaty tone out of the big Pontiac... They hang down too low and heat up the transmission and the inside ... I drove a few cars with the X and right after removing the X and couldn't tell any change in performance. Sound wise the X pipe sounded tinny and cheap compared to two separate 2-1/2" mandrill runs with the Dynomax Super Turbo ..

Anything other than a hard line running the length of a car is a disaster waiting to happen. If a shop told you it was 'ok', I would run from that shop.

Plenty of discussions regarding best practices for running fuel lines, and some examples of how to do it too. Do the homework, do it right, do it once.

If you look at NHRA guidelines for fuel line, you will get an idea of what is safe and what isn't. I suggest at minimum, looking at that guidence.

https://www.nhra.com/news/2020/2021-...ailable-online

If you want some examples and to get others' opinion(s), here's one thread:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ighlight=1%2F2

Make sure to read all the way to the end, changes were made along the way.

My Judge build thread also has some examples.

And just to say, you can do it without the body off the frame.

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Nicopp is what I use to replace any metal lines on everything I own now. Much easier to work than steel, and it will never corrode. If you need it to look like steel, paint it before you install it. Yes, it's not exactly cheap, but well worth the price. I buy it in 25 foot rolls so I have some hanging on the wall of common sizes so I don't have to stop and run 10 miles to the parts store to buy tubing.

Amazon is usually cheapest, if you can wait for it. If not you have to pay the higher price to source it locally.

Learned my lesson when I bought my 93 K3500 that the former owner had just ran new steel brake line to the rear before I bought it. In 5 years the lines had already rusted through. Not a fun job, and I was the second person doing it in 5 years, nicopp front and rear now, and I won't have to ever worry about a hydraulic brake line failure again. I also made the trans cooling lines for the truck from nicopp after a rust out failure a few years ago.