I am not sure what I am doing so going to ask you guys what you think is best.I have the frame stripped down to nothing and going to start with it in the restoration.Thanks for any input as I will be getting all my information from this site as I slowly restore my rustbuckt.

I am not sure what I am doing so going to ask you guys what you think is best.I have the frame stripped down to nothing and going to start with it in the restoration.Thanks for any input as I will be getting all my information from this site as I slowly restore my rustbuckt.

i would acid drip and powder coat ithink the acid eats the rust and i know the powdercoating is much more resitant to chiping than paint

I acid dipped, won't ever do it again. It's virtually impossible to properly neutralize all the acid that get's into the seams, etc. The result is acid that leaches out over time, fouling up your paint job.

If you wanna dip something without any seams, such as front suspension control arms, have at it.

Personally, I'll sandblast my next frame.

I use Epoxy primer with Acrylic Eurethane topcoat. It's very durable and is much easier to touch up than powder.

Matt is right on target. Epoxy primer is the only way to go, follow with urethane based paint. It looks good an has good chip resistance. If you are concerned about protecting interior surfaces inside the frame sections look around your area for a paint shop that has an electrostatic gun (metal/office furniture makers are good). I found a guy to come shoot mine in my shop using my air and materials. Coverage inside the pockets and box sections was excellant.

Matt D I had body dipped
and to get the seams clean use a little water and a propane torch and spray a lil water into the seam then hit it with the torch until it boils out you will see it working this will get the caustic out

However that said it is a major pain in the a##
Blasting is much easier to work with when complete

But i think dipping takes more off

I blasted with black diamond media and then used POR15 metalprepe and POR15 for preped frame. Came out awesome. POR15 is hard as a rock. Heard good and bad about it but the GOOD out-weighed the bad easy.

I just dropped my frame, front control arms, rear control arms, trans crossmember, and a few other items off at the sand blasters about a hour ago. Cost for this is $220 and turn around time is 4 days. I have been doing alot of blasting at home, but figure for the cost to send it out is well worth it for someone else to do the frame. Once I get it back I will paint the frame myself and begin re-assembly.

Bill

What about a convertible frame? It's boxed and there's no way (at least I don't think so) of getting at the inside of the boxed frame. I guess I'm asking the proper way to restore a convertible frame???? http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...n_confused.gif

Emrock, I agree that dipping does a great job stripping rust and paint.. my problem is the people who I paid to perform this service didn't get the acid neutralized well enough and I have a couple of spots where the paint is getting ruined because of acid coming up from below. Personally, I'm done with acid for good. Admittedly, there is no structural concern, merely cosmetic.. but this project is all about the cosmetics anyway. I wish I'd have known it wasn't neutralized before I painted it.. (still mulling over blasting it and starting from scratch.)

Dan, if you're working on a boxed frame secion, there is no way to paint inside it anyway, so why worry?

Look at it another way, we're talking about the best way to take a frame (or any other component) all the way down to bare metal. Once you're at the bare metal stage, the metal doesn't care how you got it there. (This assumes the metal isn't contaminated with some caustic material that bites you in the butt after painting. http://pysales.com/images/evil.gif)

If we were talking about cars being used in daily driver duties on salted roads, I would probably be more concerned about the protective finish on the inside of boxed sections. In reality, I'd be surprised if these cars we're talking about ever see rain slicked roads, much less salt. I think worrying about painting boxed sections is needless overkill.

From now on, I'll stick to a form of metal stripping that is paint friendly and won't screw me months after the job was "finished", abrasive media.

If you're naive like I was, and in love with the "spick and span" concept of acid dipping; by all means go right ahead. If you want the job done without complications down the line, abrasives are the best option.

Acid is impressive in it's cleansing ability. However, come talk to me six months down the road.

For me the debate is over, just trying to save you from my mistake. -Matt

Bill, having all that done for $220 is a total bargain. You will not regret having farmed that project out.

I'm going to powder coat everything. From the frame to the front end to the rear end. I think it's a beter way to perserve the metal and will last for ever. Although it's more expensive, I think it's money well spend. I will be dropping my frame off as soon as I fugure out how to get it the the shop.

Anthony

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Matt D. 78 GHOST:
Dan, if you're working on a boxed frame secion, there is no way to paint inside it anyway, so why worry?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

If you had the frame powdercoated, wouldn't the inside also get coated, because of the process used? Part of the reason for stripping a frame and coating it is to protect the metal. If you strip and coat the outside of the frame but do nothing to address the interior portions of the frame - don't you run the risk that the frame will rot from the inside out?

Thanks again.
-Dan

Dan.

I went to a couple of shops the do powder coating in my area. I looked at there work and went with Action Powder Coating in Lindenhurst, NY. They have had more experience with frames and showed me how they shoot the coating in to the boxed areas with a nozzle.I do not have a convertable. They also tape any area that should not be coated such as threaded bolt holes and so on. I hope to drop it off the beginning of next week.

I sandblasted my sub frame and wirtually every part forward of the firewall. I painted all parts with a two part epoxy plastic called Endura. I'm really happy with the results, and that paint should protect the metal for years.

After reading all the post and then talking to both my local acid dip place and powder coating place I have decided to sandblast and powdercoat my frame.For $350 they will sandblast my frame (1967 Grand Prix Convertable)and then clean and powdercoat it. They told me that they will do all they can to clean the inside of the frame.I also talked to a couple of restoration shops here and they send thier work to this shop to be done so I am comfortable with this decision.

However I am now in a debate as to wether or not I have got ahead of myself.At the restoration shops I was told to replae my floor and trunk pans first before I have my frame powdercoated.This would mean I have to reassemble the body back onto the frame??? Has anyone done this off the frame or after having the frame finished and the body back on?

SIGH this is a major project for me and I want to do it right the first time so any and all help,feedback,comments would be most appreciated.

quackerbacker mentions the problem with boxed frames: before you can coat it anyway from inside, you should have it rather clean there.

my convertible frame looked nice from outside, but was 1" high filled with rust chips and dirt http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...s/icon_eek.gif.

i started now to cut some holes to be able to take this material out with a vacuum cleaner. takes 4 or 5 holes per side that need to be closed by welding after. it's a rough procedure but can be done with body on frame.

when clean inside, an alternative to paint or coat it, is to use a cavity sealer, that will not dry and get hard but stay soft. can be applied thru small holes with spray can with small duct. but take care when welding later: this stuff will more easily burn than paint.

i was once thinking about filling the frame with urethane foam... what do you think about this weird idea http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...n_confused.gif?

Quaker,

$350 is a steel...The best price I got in NY was $750... http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...s/icon_eek.gif

I'm thinking about having my frame dipped and galvanized. After it is galvanized it shouldnt' weep acid down the road and it can be painted with latex paint. I saw this on another site.