I have been looking at these headers and think they would be a great addition to my 1979 4 Speed T/A.

I am aware headers require a unique oil filter adapter, but I have a more detailed question to ask.

Has anyone used these headers??? I have installed many sets of headers over the years and too often, I have been forced to dent them here and there for proper fit.

I would hate to dent these and ruin the cerama-coat finish.

Any input would be greatly appreciated...Robert

"If I had better junk in my garage, I know I could go faster."

I have been looking at these headers and think they would be a great addition to my 1979 4 Speed T/A.

I am aware headers require a unique oil filter adapter, but I have a more detailed question to ask.

Has anyone used these headers??? I have installed many sets of headers over the years and too often, I have been forced to dent them here and there for proper fit.

I would hate to dent these and ruin the cerama-coat finish.

Any input would be greatly appreciated...Robert

"If I had better junk in my garage, I know I could go faster."

Robert....
Hedman #28150 is the way to go.
good ground clearance and easy installation.
Buy them for less than $190, then send them to airborn coatings in/out process for $205.

1973 SD455 T/A
1979 S.E. T/A
http://community.webshots.com/album/16587603rOyvmFCiHs

Larry, What size tubes are they?

http://kurtsplates.homestead.com/files/budgto.jpg

My Rig's a little old, but that don't mean she's slow.

tube size...

1 3/4"

1973 SD455 T/A
1979 S.E. T/A
http://community.webshots.com/album/16587603rOyvmFCiHs

I installed a set last winter. They seemed to be well made, but there were some problems. The header gaskets they give you are crap and do not seperate the 3&5 nor the 4&6 cylinders.Using the smallest head (3/8")stainless bolt, there was no way to get the one behind the #6 port started with cutting the flange and shortening the bolt. Then, you could only get to it with an ignition wrench and turn it about 1/8 turn at a time. Using the ignition wrench made it impossible to properly torque this, and even using the best Fel-Pro gaskets, that cylinder leaks. Keep in mind this is with new motor mounts. Driver side went in fine, but I had to hammer the pass. side like I hated it to clear the crossmember. On the plus side, there is good access to the oil filter in the stock location. Run, don't walk away from these. Knowing what I know now, I would buy Dougs, and nothing else. By the way this was on a 66 GTO.

Itlglo,

Which headers caused you so much trouble???...Robert http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...n_confused.gif

"If I had better junk in my garage, I know I could go faster."

Hey Robert, i have these headers (Dynomax cerama-coat) installed on my second gen. T/A, and the fit was great,still had plenty of room between header and frame at all points, although i did have to enlarge the slot for the oil dipstick tube--from the factory, the header rubbed up against it too much, but five minutes with a die grinder took care of it. they are a good price and are coated inside and out--i think thats what allured me to them, but they are not necessarily the best deal. remember, they are only 1 5/8 primaries, and if your engine is very healthy, they might hurt you a little (over a bigger primaried header). the Hedman header that Larry speaks of is, i would say in the long run, a better investment--that way if you wanted to upgrade, you would already have a 1 3/4 header--probably better if you have a 400, but definitely need if you have a 455. i think what convinced me to order the dynomax headers is that they come to you already coated, and i just didnt have the time or the extra money to send them out to get coated, so i guess i sacrificed a little performance by getting them over another brand. be prepared to buy some decent gaskets for them though, the ones that come with them arent worth starting a fire with. ---fel-pros are real nice, i went ahead and doubled up each flange with fel-pros and have no leaks whatsoever. ive heard of people reusing the fel pros many times. so i guess if your tight for money like i was, the dynomax headers will suffice and they will fit decent. good luck with whatever you choose!

lol sorry, forgot some things----you can get to all bolt holes just fine except for the bolt behind the #6 port that ltlgto speaks of---you will need a VERY THIN and short 3/8 wrench, and i mean thin! to get back in there. but it is do-able, going about a 1/4 of a turn at a time. and you wont need an oil filter adapter--use the stock one, and buy the AC Delco PF-24--it just fits by the oil pan and header.

robert....remember that your car is exactly as mine, so the experience i have with hedman is positive. No cutting flanges or anything like that. The #6 bolt access is no problem and using a regular open-end wrench for all bolts is all thats required. The trick to starting the center bolts is to thread them into the head, FIRST. THe hedman flange at #6 & #5 is drilled to fit over the bolt head and slotted to position the header in place. After that, its a piece of cake.
Also, use the FELPRO #1424 header gaskets and ARP stainless header bolts and you'll be set-up for an easy, no leak installation!

1973 SD455 T/A
1979 S.E. T/A
http://community.webshots.com/album/16587603rOyvmFCiHs

go with what Larry say's
I went thru it on my 75 with the dyno's. had to mill them, add extra welds to the gasket area, cut them between ports and made a custom wrench to get #6... a pain in the butt, they do clear but now are 2 years old and dont look as nice as I think they still should http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...n_confused.gif Jim

unlike someone my daddy ain't Jed Clampett[img
http://www.sitcomsonline.com/photos/...scast2.jpgimg]

I definitely appreciate the input on these headers. I probably won't switch until sometime down the road, since I still have a good deal of moeny to spend on the new motor.

On my desktop dyno, my HP and TQ are more balanced with the small tube header and the TQ drops off with a switch to the 1-3/4" primaries. Not a big deal I suppose, as it is only 25 lb/ft of TQ, but interesting just the same.

I would definitely have to save up to have the headers Larry recommends ceramic coated, so for now, I will be running stock 1979 T/A Manifolds.

Have you seen the Ram Air Manifolds in Classic Industries Firebird Catalog??? They are advertised as fitting the 1977-1981 F-Body, but look radically different.

Not as good as a header I would think, but interesting just the same.

I had headers on my 1992 Mustang and the only gaskets that would seal it were the Mr. Gasket Total Seal variants.

They are a dark gray color with a wire meash material spread throughout the gasket.

I guess I have a lot of experimentation to do on this car when it comes to exhaust.

I have the stock 'Y' pipe and a 3" High-Flow Cat with a 3" pipe running back to the stock dual mufflers and tailpipes.

I plan on removing the cat with a bolt-in pipe for 'testing' and will retain the stock style exhaust system.

One major change I plan on is swapping in some different mufflers. I have always liked the way a good quality glasspack with a non-directional core sounds and they can't be beat for low restriction.

Other than that, I may also try the Magnaflows, providing I can get a pair small enough to fit under the car in the stock location.

Definitely no Flowmasters. I have no desire to sound just like everyone else.

I really appreciate all your time and effort with respect to thipost...Robert

"If I had better junk in my garage, I know I could go faster."

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Have you seen the Ram Air Manifolds in Classic Industries Firebird Catalog??? They are advertised as fitting the 1977-1981 F-Body, but look radically different.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The lastest HPP did a comparison test on headers vs. ram air manifolds. I think that Heddman was the header that they tested. The test engines were a stock 398 and a built 455. There wasn't much difference on the stock mill. Might be something to consider. Plus one of the suppliers offers a ported manifold for those that want the sleeper look with a little pop.

A closed mouth gathers no feet.

205 is a good deal to have them coated..jet-hot wants 295.Im having airborn do mine I believe.

The thick CLOUD of tire smoke ,the SMELL of burning rubber,and the CHEER of the crowd ....PRICELESS.
$90.00 fine for an awesome burn-out,worth every penny

http://www.theyman.com