I am restoring my 70 GTO Conv and have been finding conflicting info on what colors certain items should be painted. The assembly manual I have shows a diagram of a complete finished chassis with all virtually all items painted chassis black. However, my latest issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines there is a whole article about frame resto for a-bodies and it shows many different colors used for axles, backing plates, steering knuckles, etc. Does anyone know which is factory correct? I want to do my car as correct as possible and any help would be greatly apprecited.
Thanks!

I am restoring my 70 GTO Conv and have been finding conflicting info on what colors certain items should be painted. The assembly manual I have shows a diagram of a complete finished chassis with all virtually all items painted chassis black. However, my latest issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines there is a whole article about frame resto for a-bodies and it shows many different colors used for axles, backing plates, steering knuckles, etc. Does anyone know which is factory correct? I want to do my car as correct as possible and any help would be greatly apprecited.
Thanks!

Here you go:

This information was take from an article entitled “GM Chassis Detail” that appeared in the May 2000 issue of Musclecar Review. The chassis used for reference in the article was a 70 RA IV Judge owned by Dan Jensen (Is he a forum member?).

Frame: Black (PPG DP 90 Epoxy)

Front-Brake Assembly
Calipers: Gray Phosphate
Caliper attaching bolts: Silver Zinc
Caliper mounting brackets: Zinc Dichromate
Brake rotors: Detail Gray
Dust Shield: Silver Zinc
All crimp nuts Silver Zinc
Brake-line clips (Gm PN 343464): Factory Blue
Brake junction block: Spray Gray

Suspension
Spindles: Detail Gray
Urethane sway-bar bushings: Detail Gray
Bolted upper ball joint: Detail Gray
Upper suspension: Gray Phosphate plating
Coil springs: Gray or Black paint
Shock-absorber hardware: Silver Zinc
Wheel-bearing dust cover: Silver Zinc
Front/rear sway bars: Spray Gray

Steering
Steering box: Gray Phosphate
Pitman arm: Detail Gray
Idler arm: Detail Gray
Idler-arm stem: Spray Gray
Steering shaft: Detail Gray
Steering arm: Detail Gray
Tie-rod ends: Detail Gray
Tie-rod adjusting sleeve: Black zinc
Center link: Spray Gray

Axle
Center section: Spray Gray
Shocks: Special-mix Gray lacquer
Axle tubes: Detail Gray
Pinion yoke: Gray phosphate

Motor mounts: Gray phosphate

Paints
Detail Gray: Part No: 10036Z Eastwood Co.
Spray Gray: Part No: 10032Z Eastwood Co.
PPG Epoxy Primer: Part No: DP 40
PPG Primer/Surfacer: Part No: K36
PPG Epoxy: Part No: DP 90
Black: DP 90

would this be the same for 66 model year?

The only stupid question you ask, is the one you don't. Learn at least one thing everyday.

Some very knowledgeable 'little birdies' have told me that the guy who did the article in Hemmings Muscle Machines is 'overdoing' his 69 Judge chassis. He is scheduled to have it at the GTOAA Nats this summer

Has anyone translated the Eastwood colors into PPG or Dupont colors? I'd rather buy a known paint system locally than an unknown one mail order.

John

I have used Eastwood paints very good..
Great company good service top notch.

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I agree that is over doing the chassis and in my opinion should not add points to a car because it is not factory correct. Most of those "detailed" components were on the chasis when the chassis got sprayed, hence covering most of them in chassis black. If you read the assembly manual, it clearly shows chassis black on about 95% of everyhting and even says "overspray OK here, or do not apply paint here". I own a 51,000 mile original unmolested, unrestored 66 and it holds true to the assembly manual. The car was never under coated and just about everything is chassis black, including overspray on steel fuel lines, brake lines clips, etc.

Steve, you are correct. Most of todays restorers use 'detail gray or gray phosphate plating on parts and pieces that were originally natural metal simply to perserve the metal where it will not rerust. In the early days before this color became available, we we sandblast or glass bead these parts to get down to the bare metal and spray it with clear. Some would even just rub these pieces every so often with WD 40. Others would rub them down with vaseline or a cosmoline type crap. Talk about maintance and a mess! Even the clear paint would eventually show rust back through.

The frames were shipped in from 2 or 3 different suppliers. They were coated (and I used that term loosely) in a semi flat coating, the gloss differed between vendors. It was NOT the same as the inner fenders, radiator cradle, etc. Then as the front and rear suspension and brakes were assembled on the line, it was 'supposed' to get something of a pass by a spray guy. You will find notations in some assembly manuals telling how they sprayed around the brake drums to keep from effecting the braking on the car.

As far a 'factory correct', there is no definitive or correct answer. Most cars when they were sitting on a dealers lot already had a rusty sway bar and steering linkage. Are you going to leave you concours car rusty? I don't think so! I think a 'natural' color paint or plating would be considered correct on parts or pieces that would have been bare metal when new. I don't think it should be painted black. Same for natural aluminum pieces. They should be refinished to be naturual (they will not rust), not painted with aluminum paint. As posted before, Dan Jansen is a respected and long time Pontiac enthusiast and restorer and his reference would be a good one. Also, Scott Tieman at Supercar Specialties has specialized in Pontiacs for almost 20 years and is very knowledgable.
I would refer to these two before I would follow the recent in HMM as gospel.

I'm sure I am not the only one who has been frustrated with this whole detail thing, I have heard many different opinions. I am now starting to suffer from paralysis by analysis. In other words I am beginning to second guess just about every type of finish I have applied or am going to apply. I am starting to put my chassis together for my numbers matching 70 OO Judge now and really need all of your help, otherwise I will probably end up without any hair left after it is all said and done. This thread seems to be the most detailed with paint types etc that I have found. Does anyone have any other suggestions and can you please post a few pics to help as well.

I know napas cast blast will look better then eastwoods, if you spray it real light, you can see the cast better.What I have isn't original, but I redid a lot of it to make it look decent.

I know what you're saying about finding out what is right.

Rob

There are questions to be answered, and answers to be questioned"

Chassis, Body Jig, Trunk Pan Pics.
http://webpages.charter.net/2manitowoc

Paint booth, Ventilation, etc.
http://www.2manitowoc.com/paintroom.html

I've decided to follow the restoration manual (Zazarine). To further this decision, my car was formerly a GTOAA "original class" car and virtually all of the suspension and steering linkage were black. The manual says 60 degree black is appropriate, which is what I intend to do.

Can anyone answer this one? Did all GM A-body cars use the same colors or degree of gloss on like parts? For instance, even though these parts are not interchangeable, would a LeMans and a Cutlass have the same gloss black on inner fenders or core support, under side of hood, etc?

ttt
Jerry?