I need to replace my floor pan on my 71 lemans and I have seen the one peice floor pan on ebay from Tamraz auto parts and I was wondering if any body has used these and are they any good and how hard to install over the 2 peice floor pans.

I need to replace my floor pan on my 71 lemans and I have seen the one peice floor pan on ebay from Tamraz auto parts and I was wondering if any body has used these and are they any good and how hard to install over the 2 peice floor pans.

I can not speak for a 71 Lemans as I have a 68 GTO. But I would think they are not that different. I installed the two piece halves and two piece rear seat pan and it was stright forward. I have seen the one piece pans, but from knowing the issues I ran into with the halves, I would imagine that a one piece pan would be a royal pain in that ass. With all the test fitting, removal etc. Also I would think that it would be tough just to physically get it in and out of the car.

I know I would not try it myself. The two piece halves and rear seat pan worked out great for me. Just my opinion.

Bill

I saw the one piece displayed at a swap meet and it looks like a pretty quality piece. stamping is nice and there are no wrinkles on the tighter edges that you sometimes see. This one was from the Parts Place out of Chicago.

The panel isn't quite as big as you would imagine it to be, and it is actually pretty light. Personally, I was going to go with a one piece to save that long weld down the center.

The rep that I spoke to said that the one piece is starting to outsell the two piece when it comes to entire floor replacement.

I could see it being a bit easier than two piece, because there is one less seam to deal with.

I have not installed either, but I did a lot of searching about both and that is what I would do...

I have a related question, when installing these floor pans is it better to butt joint them or over lap them using a flange tool and then weld them?

I lap welded my entire pan replacement with the exception of the center seam of the rear seat pan. The center section of the two halves already has a flang, I did not have to do any flanging at all. The outer edge seams I would overlap as well. Butt welding will be tough in some of the areas such as the kick panel. I left about an inch all the way around. Just make sure if you lap weld to spray a weldable primer on the pieces first.

Bill

Bill, Where did you get your floor pans from. And do you have to replace the seat bolt holes or are they already in the floor pan. Thanks for your help. Jeff

Thanks Bill for the reply. Did you weld both sides (top and bottom)? Or did you just weld the top and seam seal the bottom?

Jeff,
I got my floor pans along with my trunk kit and 1/4 patch panels from Goodmark. I am pleased with them. They are the only company that would help me with shipping. Shipping to Alaska SUCKS. The rear seat pan has the bolt holes in the pan and the bolts welded on the back. For the two halve pans, you will have to cut out the three holes on each pan. Not hard and very stright forward. I have plenty of pictures if needed.

Cujo
I welded the top half all the way around. The car is off the frame now. Once I finish rebuilding the frame then I am going to crawl under the car and finish up. My plan is to just put a good seam sealer in. No need to really weld the bottom if you put in a good sealer.

Bill

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jv628:
I need to replace my floor pan on my 71 lemans and I have seen the one peice floor pan on ebay from Tamraz auto parts and I was wondering if any body has used these and are they any good and how hard to install over the 2 peice floor pans. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

ive seen stuff for my 69 on ebay from the exact same seller. i asked questions abotu the quality and t osee some better pics and was lucky if i got a responce. and when i did the seller side stepped my questions. i would rather pay double the price for something that i know will work and work well then pay half the price and it be a coin toss.

Getting ready for a frame off on my 69 Lemans. Plan to replace the floor pans and trunk before lifting off the frame. After closer inspection from underneath I noticed alot of rust and flaking on the rocker panels.

My question: Should I replace the rockers 1st then do the floor & trunk pans?

Tony

Tony,

Inner or outer rocker? I would replace the rocker first if it was me then move onto the floor pans. I was lucky as I did not have to replace a rocker but I did make a patch or two for the inner rocker and I have one more to go.

Bill

Bill,

It's the Inner rocker, I've heard it's common for these to rust from the inside out? I don't have it all apart yet but towards the front is where the rust scaling is, maybe I can patch it.

Any chance you have some pics of your patch job?

Thanks...Tony

Tony,

Sorry to say, no pictures on the rocker patch. That is about the only thing I dont have. I may be able to take a pic or so in a couple weeks, I cant get under the body now to take a pic since the body is off the frame.

Bill

When I replaced the floor in my 68 GTO, the crossmembers were shot, too. Where they connected to the inner rockers, both crossmember and inner rocker were GONE.

I cut out the rust in a square, and patched the inner rocker with a simple flat plate. Welded the new crossmember to the plate. I did snap a photo of the plate, but its not really enlightening -- just a flat piece of metal over a square hole.

( I took the pic because it was the first patch on a looong road back to life for the goat, and it was also my first weld!) http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_smile.gif

I can post if you're really interested.

Bob Trimpe
68 Firebird 350 HO
68 GTO raggy top

Bill-
Can you post pictures here of your seatbelt bolt holes in your new floor pans? I recently installed full floor pans in my '66 and the Goodmark pans are not marked for the seat belt holes.

Thanks,
JB

JB,

My pans did not come with holes pre drilled. What I did was installed them temporarly and marked them from the underside and removed the pans then drilled the holes. It was pretty stright forward. I can post pic if needed.

Bill

Bill-
Thanks for the feedback. I called Goodmark about this. They said I was supposed to take your approach before welding the pans and support into place. The seatbelt bolt actaully threads into the center support member with a simply hole drilled into the floor pan. Now, I have to drill a pilot hole for each seatbelt bolt and then use a tulip bit to make the hold the proper size. All of this without destroying the hole threads in the support member.

A little of the cart before the horse for me. This is my first time and it's learn, learn, learn.

Appreciate the feedback.
JB

JB,

What I would do it drill a pilot hole like you say, then use a larger "Hole Saw" bit and drill out a larger hole then the diameter of the threaded area of the seatbelt hole. That way when you drill a larger hole around the seatbelt bolt area, you can weld it to the support member. Not sure if that makes any sense, but it worked for me.

Bill