Hi,

I have a hybrid setup where by I use the old points coil and a HEI dust cap w/stock hei coil.

I've been double checking the wiring and drawing some diagram's.

I need some confirmation as I've read a lot of the previous posts by doing an advanced search.

I have a 69 gto.

1) The pink wire on + side of the coil REPRESENTS FULL FOLTAGE WHILE the car is cranking over and then stops when it starts running - CORRECT Y/N ?

2) This pink wires routes iteself down to the starter - correct? Y/N

3) The black wire on my + side of coil is MOST LIKELY the resistance wire. I understand that once the cars is running and if I had a points distributor this wire would save my points from burning out.

I've put my RED test lead on the black wire independantly and touched the headers with the BLK test lead and it read 11.8V DC.

4) The kicker here is that there is a nice wire ran to the fuse box that is for the constant 12V+ and it reads 11.8V to as well. (wire removed from coil and tested independantly)

So here is my thoughts

1) It appears that the new wire (12V+ to fuse box) and the old resistance wire are connected to the + side of coil

2) I'm not 100% sure how to test resistance wire, I suppose the best method is to follow the wire back along through firewall and see where it goes ?

here is a diagram , if you say anything out of the ordinary please assist.

Hi,

I have a hybrid setup where by I use the old points coil and a HEI dust cap w/stock hei coil.

I've been double checking the wiring and drawing some diagram's.

I need some confirmation as I've read a lot of the previous posts by doing an advanced search.

I have a 69 gto.

1) The pink wire on + side of the coil REPRESENTS FULL FOLTAGE WHILE the car is cranking over and then stops when it starts running - CORRECT Y/N ?

2) This pink wires routes iteself down to the starter - correct? Y/N

3) The black wire on my + side of coil is MOST LIKELY the resistance wire. I understand that once the cars is running and if I had a points distributor this wire would save my points from burning out.

I've put my RED test lead on the black wire independantly and touched the headers with the BLK test lead and it read 11.8V DC.

4) The kicker here is that there is a nice wire ran to the fuse box that is for the constant 12V+ and it reads 11.8V to as well. (wire removed from coil and tested independantly)

So here is my thoughts

1) It appears that the new wire (12V+ to fuse box) and the old resistance wire are connected to the + side of coil

2) I'm not 100% sure how to test resistance wire, I suppose the best method is to follow the wire back along through firewall and see where it goes ?

here is a diagram , if you say anything out of the ordinary please assist.

So, am I correct in saying you want to run a external coil with the HEI pickup and module?

George

I want to go back to points if I can't get clarification from another user that this setup is indeed correct.

There doesn't seem to be many who have this system.

I paid a friend a long time ago to convert to HEI and this is the job he performed.

Abeit is does run.

Ankiously awaiting anyone's reply.

Kyle, I'm trying to understand exactly what your existing system is trying to accomplish. Once I know that I can probably give you some advice.

George

My current system was suppose to facilitate an easy return to points system if I ever wanted to.

How ?? I was never told how ??

I've never come across anyone who has this type of hybrid system in there pontiac.

Since there is a dust caps made for HEI, I assume that people have wired these hybrid systems before.

I say hybrid because usually people run the HEI coil not the points coil with an HEI.

I'd just like verification that this is correct, what I have above.

I hope I'm using the correct terminalogy as to confuse anyone.

The points coil in the diagram is not applicable because, well , it's not hooked up yet.

Ok,
1. Probably true if the pink wire goes to the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid.

2. See #1

3.Could be the resistance wire, but it doesn't usually go thru a hole in the firewall; usually goes to a contact on the firewall bulhead connector.

3b. That's not the way to measure the resisance wire without an external coil in the system. Check the resistance end-to-end of the wire. First measure the resiatnce of the meter leads themselves, should be about 1 ohm or so, then measure the resistance of the wire and you should read approx 2 to 3 ohms total.

4. Does the 12V red wire have volatge on it always, or just with the key on?

For HEI use, keep all the wires, just don't connect to an external coil. For going back to points, just remove the 12 volt red wire from the connections and you should be good to go.

George

1 & 2 -> Yes goes to starter, the picture shows the connector piece near starter.

3 -> My fault, wrong terminalogy. Yes It goes to bullhead.(new term for me)

4 -> red wire Connected to "ACC" on fuse box
has voltage when key is in RUN position only.


Finding out where the black wire goes is tricky.

Do I have to unmount the fuse panel just to find where the wire goes to?

The couple posts I'll show the switch on the steering column and a pic of the fuse panel.

I'm getting close, thank you George!!!

Fuse Panel ( RED WIRE I assume is the HEI 12 + Wire )

Who knows.

Last Comment about Bull head.

That is just an intersection of wires (shape of a bull horn) which goes through the firewall I assume?

I can't see behind the wires.

Here is a pic, as you can see the wires disappear around the windshield washer pump.

---- Please read I made a mistake ----

If the RED wire (large guage) at coil is removed and I take the red tead lead to it, then blk test lead to header it shows 4 V ?

Turn the key off and it shows nothing 0 V

The black wire tested independantly shows 12V.

this is making no sense.

To me it seems even more imperative I go back to stock.



If I hook all wires back up the way it was in the diagram I read 10V at the distributor (red test lead on coil and negative lead to frame ground )

Here is a pic of the switch on steering column.

Bull Head?

Sorry, I meant bulkhead. The engine side harness ends in a rectangular plastic box with the electrical connectors in it. On the opposite side of the bulkhead (firewall) is the fuse box. The whole thing goes together such that the firewall is sandwiched between the engine side connector block and the fuse box. That's how the electrical connections are made from the engine side to the interior.

I think you should just leave the HEI in there, don't worry about the resistance wire; it's not used with the HEI anyway. It should be running; leave it alone. looks fine for HEI. The HEI will last longer than points.

I suggest making sure the red wire is anchored to the fuse box such the vibration, etc. will not loosen it.

George

Thank you for helping me out George!

I decided to put it back to points... set dwell at 27.

base was 12" mechanical kicked in for a total of 32 at 3000.

Idles great in drive.. Runs cooler. I'm thrilled to death, I enjoy my car again.

I haven't worked with the vac advance yet but soon. needless to say it is night and day difference... something about the old hei just didn't jive...module or what have you.

I only tested it for a 1.5 hour drive straight.