My 67 GTO won't turn over and now I'm getting disgusted! At first I had the original starter rebiult but was still experience slow starts, even when cold. So I went and got a rebuilt Delco over the counter at a local parts store. Now it's worse!
This is a basically stock and fresh 400, with the Pertronix Ignitor conversion and coil. I mention the Pertronix as I've read things about voltage drop that could effect starting???

Is there something I should be doing? Should I just spend the $ and get a high-torque starter and be done with it? If so who makes the best one?

thanks!

My 67 GTO won't turn over and now I'm getting disgusted! At first I had the original starter rebiult but was still experience slow starts, even when cold. So I went and got a rebuilt Delco over the counter at a local parts store. Now it's worse!
This is a basically stock and fresh 400, with the Pertronix Ignitor conversion and coil. I mention the Pertronix as I've read things about voltage drop that could effect starting???

Is there something I should be doing? Should I just spend the $ and get a high-torque starter and be done with it? If so who makes the best one?

thanks!

My experience has been that the most common problem is inferior cables and improper engine grounding.I use a minimum 1 ga. fine copper strand cables for all the battery connections(soldered and crimped,no bolt on terminals) AND use the same to ground the block to the frame in addition to the body grounds.That along with using a ford style solenoid in addition,so the starter is only hot when cranking.Many parts store cables are not pure copper wire cables,and when they are they usually at best are 4ga.,many are copper clad aluminum and very poor quality.I have never needed an aftermarket high torque starter for my street cars with under 10.0:1 compression yet.

Follow the DC current path.

Battery dropped a cell?
Batt clamps clean, fine-wire "00" gauge cables.
cables both going to starter zone (Solenoid, casebolt, or Trans Bellhouse bolt.

Solenoid internal inspected for condition.
Starter mount scraped free of paint
Starter Case-to-aluminum nose free of paint.

Different problem:
solenoid responsive to key?

HIS

put a heat blanket on the starter,you get good ones at summit. also make sure you are running at least 2 guage wiring, with a good ground. battery must be a good one at least 850 amps at cold start. i did this and ridded my self of slow winding starts in my 455, with 11-1 comp. i have a checker auto parts starter, with a blaket on it. i live in the desert in vegas 110 degrees in the summer.good luck

I had a similar problem when I first got my car running. It turned out to be a bad ground, and the timing was off. But before that, I replaced everything else, including a heat blanket. Which is good, because down here it can get over 100 degrees in the summer..

If checking and correcting the above possibilities doen't eliminate your cranking problem, check that the timing isn't overly advanced as even hi-torque mini-starters have diffuculty rotating the engine with too much ignition advance.

Les

Hey Les: good article in the current issue of HPP!

George

Thanks George, I appreciate it http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...on_biggrin.gif.

Les

That starter should have no problem cranking the engine, provided the timing is correct.

Have you tested for voltage drop in both the + (insulated) and the - (non-insulated) side of the circuit?

Take a VOLTMETER set on the 3 volt scale, or whatever scale will accurately read to the sub-one-volt range.

Insulated side: Connect the + lead to the + battery post. Connect the - lead to the main, heavy + post of the starter (where the battery cable connects). Disable the ignition, and have someone crank the engine while you read the gauge. Anything over 1/2 volt is bad news.

Non-insulated side: Take the + lead, and connect to the starter case. Connect the - lead to the - battery post. Crank again--same deal, anything over 1/2 volt is bad news.

Repair the insulated or non insulated circuit as needed.

Connecting the voltmeter as I've described forces it to act as a "high current ohmmeter". Well, George is going to have some issues with the terminology, but basically you're checking the resistance of the circuit while it's under load, which a regular ohmmeter can't do.