I could change a timing chain or water pump without problems but how to check and adjust timing I do not know.

I believe my over heating problem may be somehow related to the timing. Anyone want to explain what the timing should be and how to fix it to what it should be on a 68 pontiac 350? I'll take the "for dummies" version if you have it [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]


-Ryan
1964 Pontiac Tempest

I could change a timing chain or water pump without problems but how to check and adjust timing I do not know.

I believe my over heating problem may be somehow related to the timing. Anyone want to explain what the timing should be and how to fix it to what it should be on a 68 pontiac 350? I'll take the "for dummies" version if you have it [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]


-Ryan
1964 Pontiac Tempest

Ryan, according to Motors, your 350 should be timed at 9 deg. initial advance. Make sure your points are set at .016 first. I am assuming you are all stock. If you are using a dwell meter instead of setting the gap on your points, you need to be between 28 and 32. Remember, changing your timing won't affect dwell, but changing your dwell will affect your timing. So do the points first. Do you have a timing light..? If not you will need one. You can hook up to #1 or #6 cylinder. #6 is easier since it is on the same side of the engine as the timing mark. With engine at idle (at operating temp) which should be around 160 deg., direct your timing light at the timing mark at the bottom of your timing cover. The mark on your balancer should be at "9" degrees after TDC on your timing cover. If it is not, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt at the base of your distributor with a 9/16 socket. Dont take it all of the way out, just loosen enough to rotate the distibutor. Start the engine, direct your light at the timing mark and see where your mark is. Rotate your distributor while watching the mark with your light and you will see the timing advance (rotate the distributor clockwise) or retard (rotate the distributor counter-clockwise). Find your mark (9 deg. advanced) and you are there ! Remember to do the points first though. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

Very good answer 68! Make sure to disconnect the vacuun advance on the distributor and plug off the line that comes out of the carburator to ensure no vacuum leaks. Hhhmmmm, seems like this post should be under the street section.....TM

yea, whay he said.

Remove vac hose, and time for 9deg at idle.
[I have like 20deg at idle for my 455 b/c it has a long-duration cam]. So, the stock 350 probably cannot handle sooo much advance b/c it will become hard-starting or/and ping.

Then, time for 34deg at >2800RPM.

If stock, then re-install the Vacuum advance hose, and be sure it come from ported vacuum on the Q-Jet.

Hehe, ok maybe I forgot to mention a few minor details...

I just bought the car a few months ago. I want to get into car restoration and figured this was the car to get. (1500 bucks seemed pretty good for what I got) I am 19 years old and know as much about cars as I do nuclear physics and brain surgery [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img] (nut much)

I do have a timing light. I know what TDC stands for but what it means is a different thing [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

Dwell? Points? I am lost there. Perhaps I stepped in further than I thought.

I know how to hook up a timing light. (woo hoo!)

Ok, now that you all know the eery details, lets see what I have assuming my points are set properly.

1. Remove vacuum advance on distributer and plug the line at the carb to make sure there isnt a vacuum leak

2. Hook up timing light to # 6 cylinder

3. Check to see where the line on the timing wheel thingamajob lines up. Hopefully the 9 degree mark.

3a. If not at the 9 degree mark, loosen dist bolt slightly and rotate dist to advance or retard timing to 9 degree.

4. once set to 9 degrees, reconnect vac line and I am ready to go.


Now, points? dwell? Little help?

Thanks for your help and patience!
-Ryan

the points are located in side the dist under the rotor. if you look at the dist cap you'll see a hole in the side with a metal cover. the adjustment screw for the points is located behind this. if you have access to a dwell meter hook it up to the neg side of the coil and turn the adj screw until you get 28deg on the 8 cyl scale. if you don't have a dwell meter than remove the dist cap and turn the engine until you see the points open to the widest position. you should be just able to slide a .016" feeler guage in between the contacts. this will be close to the proper dwell setting. then set the timing to the proper spec.
dwell is the amount of time the points stay closed.
top dead center is the spot in the pistons rotation where it actually stops going up and starts to go back down into the cyl.
ign timing is the point in this cycle that the spark plug fires to ignite the fuel.[ usually before tdc]
hopefully this helps you understand a little more.
a motor manual would be a good investment for a beginner as it will explain the basic maintenance procedures in steps. it will also tell you what to set your plug gap, ign timing, point gap, ect at. mike

Ryan- when setting the dwell make sure the car is running and grab a hold of the fender REAL tight before sticking the allen wrench inside the window of the distributor. Stick it in there and wiggle it around until you feel like you stuck your finger in the light socket.
That was the wrong place to put the allen wrench. HEHEHEHE
Now shut the car off and tape it up with electrical tape and get it put in the right hole, start the care up and turn it till the dwell meter reads the correct reading ( is it 28 degees? I don't remember it's been so long). Now the points are set. Nothing to it.

Ryan,

These guys have given you the info you need to wrestle your distributor into submission. However, I have an idea for you.

Once you go through trying to find a good quality point set, get it installed, set the dwell through that goofy window on the cap, and then do it all over again in another 15,000-20,000 miles (or less if less than a top-notch point set is used) you'll wish you had never heard of points.

Fortunately, there is a quick & easy, solution that will cost you about $150 total if you shop around. It's called an HEI distributor and came on all Pontiac V8s from 1975 on. This newer design uses a magnetic trigger inside the distributor that never wears out and never requires adjusting. The minute you install that distributor, your tuneups will forever after consist of simply replacing the cap, rotor, wires and plugs, but NO POINTS. The plugs can be set with a bit wider gap for more spark energy in the cylinders (smoother idle, better power) and they won't foul out or require replacing as often, especially if your engine burns a little oil as most older engines do. There are some minor drawbacks to HEI's, such as if the module burns out the ignition system simply stops, period, and they require a very minor modification in your car's wiring system to run right. The advantages far outweigh these slight problems though. The modules rarely burn out and you can always carry an extra in the glove compartment just in case and they're easier to swap out than points. Your factory wiring can be left completely stock if you wish and an additional wire can be routed from the ignition lead in your fusebox to the coil terminal on the HEI, or you can modify the stock wiring harness by unwrapping it and replacing the factory resistor wire that runs to the coil with a regular piece of 10 guage copper wire then re-wrapping the harness.

Well, guess I've muddied the waters enough. Hope I didn't confuse you too much. All I can say is that after owning cars with points distributors and cars with HEIs, I have now converted all of my cars to HEI.

-Will

Ok, with the HEI setup, Is timing still set the same way as with the standard setup or is it done a little differant?

Same way.

Regards, George

Let me add that you can do away with your points and keep the stock distributor by installing the Pertronix ignitor module.
I have not read a bad post yet on this product. I bought the ignitor and 40,000 volt
coil new for $100 bucks at a swap meet.
Joe

Re: the points vs. HEI vs. Pertronix - see the thread "Point-Less Ignition Options" under this same category

i bought the pertronixs system for my gto. it works great with my msd 6al and msd coil.
i bought it from northern auto parts for $57.00 last year. its great so far. it doesn't miss a beat.
tony

the one thing that is suggested to do and its highly recommended is to take up the distributor shaft end play. the shims are in the kit. this helps greatly when your're taking your measurement between the magnetic ring and the module.

[This message has been edited by vaccaraj (edited 09-08-2000).]