I recently experienced the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid shorting out and killing my battery, not to mention melting all of the insulation off both battery cables. It appears that the cable came in contact with either the motor mount or exhaust manifold. It also appears as though the cable was not routed through the special metal sleeve between the block and manifold that is supposed to protect it from heat. When I replaced the cable I put it through the sleeve along with the other 2 wires going to the starte solenoid. I spoke with the previous owner and he had the same problem, except that the cable was routed in the sleeve. He indicated that this is a common problem for these cars. There is very little clearance at the solenoid when it is in its final location for all the wires and connectors. If this is a common problem, some of you must have had it and potentially solved it. Is there some sort of material (like asbestos) that I could cover the cables with to minimize their exposure to heat. This looks like a bad design. Is there a permanent solution to this problem? Help. I don't want a fire!!

I recently experienced the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid shorting out and killing my battery, not to mention melting all of the insulation off both battery cables. It appears that the cable came in contact with either the motor mount or exhaust manifold. It also appears as though the cable was not routed through the special metal sleeve between the block and manifold that is supposed to protect it from heat. When I replaced the cable I put it through the sleeve along with the other 2 wires going to the starte solenoid. I spoke with the previous owner and he had the same problem, except that the cable was routed in the sleeve. He indicated that this is a common problem for these cars. There is very little clearance at the solenoid when it is in its final location for all the wires and connectors. If this is a common problem, some of you must have had it and potentially solved it. Is there some sort of material (like asbestos) that I could cover the cables with to minimize their exposure to heat. This looks like a bad design. Is there a permanent solution to this problem? Help. I don't want a fire!!

Cutiger,
The major problem with the battery cables is that they do not make the sharp turn to avoid the exhaust or block like the original.
If you take the starter off and carefully check which way it bends. Make sure that it has lots of clearance between the block and exhaust manifold. It may require you to bend the cable end for clearance.

The original cables did have a separate fabric loom to protect the cables. This material is readily available by the foot. Also, the routing of your cables was dependent on the exhaust manifolds used. Standard manifolds had the cable coming thru a tube passing right thru the back section of the manifold. On HO/RA manifolds, the cable was routed down the front of the block and thru a different tube attached to the motor mount.

Ccas, where can I purchase this fabric material? NAPA?
Also, it sounds like I have the HO/RA set-up even though my car is neither. The cables run down the front drivers side of the block and through a horizontally mounted tube that I think is attached to the motor mount. It exits the tube right at the front side of the starter. I really had a tough time getting the cables to lay correctly (not on the block or the manifold) when I replaced the starter. In fact, I removed and replaced the starter several times before I was satisfied that the cables were not laying on the block.

That tube makes it a major PITA with the HO manifolds. I took mine off. Attach the battery cable to the starter and leave it loose. Work the starter up into position and install one bold with just a few threads to hold the starter up. Then tighten the 5/8" nut that holds the two wires to the large stud. Make sure the cables don't come into contact with the manifold or block. Is your car a 4-speed? Oh boy, those are even more fun! To me it looks like the starter and wiring was designed to be installed with the harnesses, starter and all attached to the engine before it was mated to the trans and dropped onto the frame especially 4-speeds! They are a royal bitch to get in there without twisting the cables and/or breaking the terminals that's why I say leave the 5/8" nut loose until you have the starter in position. You can get a 3/8" drive 5/8" socket in there from the front with a couple 6" extensions to tighten it. Just what I found to work for me and save time and frustration not to mention battery cables and wiring harnesses.

cutiger, I have the HO manifold and got the proper tube from PY's. I am doing a frame off (or more accurately a body off) on mine, so installing the tube and engine was only a pain in the a$$. Installing the tube (and wiring) in an assembled car would have been a real SOB. I'm e-mailing you a couple of digital pictures that show how I think it is supposed to go.

Ed