Yikes!

I have a stuck rear seatbelt bolt in the floorboards. Air-Impact has yielded a rounded 13/16 head..using a 6-point socket [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

I cannot hammer a 12-point 3/4 socket onto this bolt (yet)

Should I just drill through the bolt?!?!

any ideas?

H.I. Stud

"11.00/123MPH/1.50 60foot/29.5"/4.10:1/10"/472 #48/Flat HYD/DualQuad/Wenzler/3250Lbs
12.00/112MPH/1.61 60foot/26"/3.31:1/10"/472 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3650Lbs
12.70/103MPH/1.71 60foot/28"/4.10:1/12"/472 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3950Lbs"

Yikes!

I have a stuck rear seatbelt bolt in the floorboards. Air-Impact has yielded a rounded 13/16 head..using a 6-point socket [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

I cannot hammer a 12-point 3/4 socket onto this bolt (yet)

Should I just drill through the bolt?!?!

any ideas?

H.I. Stud

"11.00/123MPH/1.50 60foot/29.5"/4.10:1/10"/472 #48/Flat HYD/DualQuad/Wenzler/3250Lbs
12.00/112MPH/1.61 60foot/26"/3.31:1/10"/472 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3650Lbs
12.70/103MPH/1.71 60foot/28"/4.10:1/12"/472 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3950Lbs"

1. PB Blaster and Vise-Grips.

2. A torch.

I don't know of anyone in the neighborhood who has one, though.

rather use my teeth

Oh, yeah.

I forgot.

PB Blaster costs $2/can.

Not an option now; too much money.

Use your teeth.

[img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif[/img]

[This message was edited by Scott Misus on December 04, 2002 at 12:04 PM.]

Mig weld a piece of bar stock onto the head. Use a slide on extension for leverage. should work.

Sounds like a ...... Hey neighbor / friend , can you lend a helping hand on this project ? I'll have a cold one waiting for you .

Man is not complete until he's married , then he is finished !

Plug weld a larger nut onto the end of the bolt. Works great for lug nuts and many other stuck fastners. The heat will loosen up the joint making it easier to come off.

OK, I'll add some heat.

Gets worse: I removed some Body/frame bolts, except 3 are still in with spinning blind nuts. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img] [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]
a fourth bolt broke...that is probably a better situation.

Sooo, aside from cutting sheetmetal, how do I get these 3 body bolts out?

"11.00/123MPH/1.50 60foot/29.5"/4.10:1/10"/472 #48/Flat HYD/DualQuad/Wenzler/3250Lbs
12.00/112MPH/1.61 60foot/26"/3.31:1/10"/472 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3650Lbs
12.70/103MPH/1.71 60foot/28"/4.10:1/12"/472 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3950Lbs"

-For the seatbelts

http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summ...id=00952160000

____________________________________
It was a hot summer night. Slowly I spread her legs and my hand was trying to find it's way to her nipple... I was so excited! I never milked a cow before...

I'd still use what some may call a "fit all" (ie - torch). It's the fastest and most painless. Maybe one of the neighbors has one you can borrow?

http://kurtspontiac.homestead.com/files/bbaker.jpg

I'll agree with Glennp68. Done it before. Works great.

Before that - Rust Buster, heat and a Vise-Grip may get you out of this jam.

As for the spinning captured nuts for the frame to body bolts, sorry. Cutting some sheet metal will be necessary. Try to go from the inside of the car in a hidden spot, like from the under rear seat area. Locate the right spot, cut a hole, get the nut out. Fix the broken fastener, and weld the hole closed in the inconspicuous area.

The point to life isn't necessarilly the decimal.

PMDRACER,

That is my plan. Then I will patch each service hole with those dumb-looking ovals we see all over the floors and trunk.

Air-nibbled the package tray to open-up the 6x9 holes for 6x9 speakers.
Air-nibbled the 72Radiator support to be a 68 Rad support...Turned-out quite excellent.

I like using the air-nibbler...except when I have to.

Half-In Stud

Those frame bolts are pretty nasty. For spring shackle broken cage nuts, I didn't want to cut hole in the floor under the rear seat. Instead, I started with a small drill bit and drilled a pilot hole up the center of each bolt. I then switched to a larger bit that was approximately the same size as the bolts threaded portion and drilled thru the bolt head. Lastly, I took a cold chisel and broke the bolt heads off. I took a while but worked great with no damage. Holding the spinning bolt still was a bit of a challenge. I was able to get wrench on all bolts to keep them from spinning while drilling. Maybe this will work for the frame bolts but who knows. Can you slice thru the bushings and bolts with a saws-all blade?? At least you'd get the frame off. Dam cage nuts! Whomever came up with those things deserves a swift kick in the jimmy!!

The best "liquid wrench" I've ever used is Oil of Wintergreen. It's pretty tough to find. A really good drug store or health food store may have it. The last time I bought some, I found a gray haired pharmacist and he special ordered it for me (about $1.25/oz). I have seen it online, but haven't tried to order any. I'm not sure why more people don't know about this.

Believe it or not, but Diesel fuel works as a great rust buster also. $1.20 /gal, and an old Windex bottle. Spray until your arm gives out!

The point to life isn't necessarilly the decimal.