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Hello, I am finally getting to actually switching to the rally gauges. I removed the old set and matched the new set upto the face plate of the dash. Only the two top mounting screws match up. Same with the tach (indash) Is there some kind of bracketry that I am missing or do I need a new face plate? I want to do this the right way the first time. I don't want to purchase a brand new one or get a mint one cause mine is cut for a newer radio.Please let me know if anyone can help with mounting thses gauges or maybe if someone has the right face Plate. Thanks in advance!
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Hello, I am finally getting to actually switching to the rally gauges. I removed the old set and matched the new set upto the face plate of the dash. Only the two top mounting screws match up. Same with the tach (indash) Is there some kind of bracketry that I am missing or do I need a new face plate? I want to do this the right way the first time. I don't want to purchase a brand new one or get a mint one cause mine is cut for a newer radio.Please let me know if anyone can help with mounting thses gauges or maybe if someone has the right face Plate. Thanks in advance!
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1 Attachment(s)
Here is mine installed in the dash for my 70 GTO. Thats a clock but it mounts the same as the tach, which is what was there originally. Hope this helps.
http://www.mensexpo.com.futuresite.r...s/tigeranm.gif GR-RRR! |
What year is the donor from? and what year is it going into?
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Thanks anyway! At closer inspection I have found that I can just transplant the face of the gauges from the old non rally set to the new rally set. The operation was a perfect sucsess Not I can move on to reinstalling the new set. Cool!!!!
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1968 Idiot Harness
Black BRAKE Pink Power dark blue OIL light Blue L-blink gray dashlights Brown GEN dark green TEMP tan FUEL gray dashlights nc med Blue R-blink light green HI BEAM 1968 Idiot POD BRAKE Pink Power dark blue OIL light Blue L-blink gray dashlights Brown GEN dark green TEMP tan FUEL gray dashlights nc med Blue R-blink light green HI BEAM 1968 Gauge POD BRAKE Pink Power dark blue OIL light Blue L-blink gray dashlights tan FUEL dark green TEMP Brown GEN gray dashlights nc med Blue R-blink light green HI BEAM 1972 idiot Harness tan Pink Power dark blue OIL light Blue L-blink gray dashlights tan FUEL Brown GEN dark green TEMP gray dashlights med Blue R-blink light green HI BEAM Black BRAKE TYPICALLY: swap 5 and 7 GEN and FUEL wires But the 72 Harness is excitingly different: shift 1 to 12 swap 6 and 5 shift 3 to 2 shift 2 to 1 check extra tan 12, can put in slot 3 nc.. Half-Inch Stud "tbdET/1xxMPH/1.xx 60foot/28"/3.54:1/10"/469 #48/Flat HYD/DualQ-Jets/Offyl/3xx0Lbs 11.00/123MPH/1.50 60foot/29.5"/4.10:1/10"/469 #48/FlatHYD/DualQuad/Wenzler/3250Lbs 12.00/112MPH/1.61 60foot/26"/3.31:1/10"/469 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3650Lbs 12.70/103MPH/1.71 60foot/28"/4.10:1/12"/469 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3950Lbs" |
Say what!!!!! I was told I only need to switch the 5 and 7. I have a 72 Lemans that I am switching to the rally gauges. The new gauge set is from a 72 GTO with the seatbelt warning. I am ready to reinstall the new gauges, But now I hear this.
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I have a 72 also that I wanted to switch to guages. I was told the same thing, switch 5 and 7. I asked several times could never get any answers. I fought that thing for 3 weeks, never could get the guages to work. I finally gave up and put the idiot lights back in. Now I find out which wires to change. Thats my luck
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HeyHalf-Inch-Stud, I tried to switch the 5 and 7 wires. It didn't work. All gauges pinned when the key was turned. I followed your instuctions (although a bit confusing) It didn't work. First off I should ask: Why did I have to turn the wiring plug upside down to get it to plug into the gauges? When I did that the water temp went to 100 and the fuel gauge went to full, The oil pressure went in the opposite direction. The high beem indicator wouldn't go off even with the headlights off.There are no gauge lights and no left blinker. When the right blinker is put on the Gen light blinks. Sounds like fun Huh! Isn't there an easier way to do this? Is there a way I could get the colors of the wires to go into what number slot?
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Wow, sounds like you have a little bit of a job ahead of you. You could start to switch them around by process of elimination. First off, the dash lights should be grey and if you look at your printed circuit you should be able to see the circuit that runs around to all the illumination bulb holders giving them power. So i would put grey to that one. Then i would figure your water temp gauge going to 100 sounds like maybe its reading your gas level. Then i would use a power tester to pinpoint which wires are your blinker leads and high beam indicator and then follow the printed circuit to those bulbs and put the wires in the proper location. If you can get to a large public library they sometimes have mitchell wiring manuals with nice diagrams in them you can get a copy of, at least he main one here in st paul does. Hopefully something here helps you get it figured out. Best of luck!
http://www.mensexpo.com.futuresite.r...s/tigeranm.gif GR-RRR! |
Wow! It worked. I now have a working set of gauges. Although I was toild that there is supposed to be a black wire for brake There isn't any black. Everything seems to work great. Alot more that just 5 and 7 need to be changed. Below is the order that works (before and after).
1-tan 2-lt green 3-open 4-gray 5-brown 6-double green 7-tan 8-gray 9-double lt blue 10-dk blue 11-double pink 12-double dk blue that was the then this is the now 1-tan 2-lt green 3-double dk blue 4-gray 5-double green 6-brown 7-tan 8-gray 9-double lt blue 10-dk blue 11-double pink 12-open |
Cool, glad to hear you got it figured out!
http://www.mensexpo.com.futuresite.r...s/tigeranm.gif GR-RRR! |
bringing this old thread back as it was the most helpfull, just finnished installing rally gauges in my 72 lemans built after jan 1st 72 with seatbelt warning light.if you have a rally gauge with the seatbelt warning light there is nothing to change at all.my car HAD idiot lights,the gauge set i got off evilbay was a direct plugin.my only complaint is the fuel oil temp has 1 light at the top,cant see the others at night.speedo and tach are fine,light wise.hope this helps someone..
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One other thought I don't see in all the write-ups thus far - maybe I missed it - but it's the old check circuit for idiot lights. It has to be disconnected or the temp gauge will peg everytime the car is started and then will return to the actual temp reading. Continuous pegging of the needle on car starts might eventually loosen the needle or wreck the mechanism that operates the needle.
The check circuit is the green wire in a harness that runs down the column from the ignition on '69-'72 models, and it's the green wire in the ignition harness behind the dash ignition on the '68 model. All that has to happen is that the green wire needs to be disconnected. When I converted my '70 GTO to factory gauges, I simply backed the green wire out of the column harness that plugs into a corresponding harness on top of the steering column down towards the firewall, and then I taped it off so it wouldn't touch anything. when I converted my '68 442 to gauges, I backed the green wire out of the harness behind the dash ignition switch and taped it off. The book shows that slot in the dash ignition switch being used for a ground wire if the car is equipped with gauges, so I made a ground wire for that slot in the dash ignition switch harness. Hope this helps and that I didn't duplicate an effort already posted here! Randy C. |
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