I am looking at the Disc Brake conversion for my 66 GTO. I noticed on Ebay some kits for
$395. Is there that much difference in a kit from PST for $799?

I am looking at the Disc Brake conversion for my 66 GTO. I noticed on Ebay some kits for
$395. Is there that much difference in a kit from PST for $799?

$395? Which kits are those?

The Kit is EBAY 7953468247 Fatrodder is the seller.

If it's legit it looks good. Someone here bought the same or similar kit on ebay recently and was happy.

Looks like all you'd need is hoses and banjo bolts (I didn't see any). And the master/booster, all available at local stores. Maybe have to make some lines, I dont know, and get a combo valve if you want/need one.
Even with all that it would come to less than $799.

rightstuffdetailing sells a complete kit with an 11" booster for less than $700. They may be changing prices this spring to go even lower.

Key,

I got the kit from E-Bay and I was happy with it. Any questions about it E-mail me.

[email protected]

I'll be glad to help in any way I can.

Anthony

Thanks for all the info!

i found this site a few weeks ago, he offers a disc brake conversion for around $425.00...

http://www.xtremefabrication.com/

I've had nothing but bad luck dealing with the right stuff detailing.

SSBC, around $900.00 with everything, fit inside 14" Rally II's.

i just took the upper and lower control arms along with the disc brake assey from a 1970 monte carlo, rebuilt the arms and brakes, and installed them on my 65 tempest. i know chevelle, monte, and other a-body front brakes will bolt right in.

We just completed a front disc brake conversion on our 66 Tempest using the kit we purchased from Stainless Steel Brakes for about $950. This was the most demanding restoration job we've attempted yet. The kit was pretty complete except for the combination proportioning valve we ended up installing from InLine Tube. The SSBC kit had the adjustable rear proportioning valve but research on this site and others suggested we install the combo valve. Aside from having to drill out the old steering knuckles a bit for the new spindle bolts it was pretty complete. It wasn't the "easy 8 hour job" that I've heard about either. First of all, we replaced both upper and lower ball joints. We also converted to a power booster. PLumbing everything was a challenge too and we went through some hair pulling on craked lines and bad tube flaring. In fact we still have some leaks that we need to deal with. In addition I think the wheel bearings are too tight because we are hearing some bearing noise. Total time for the job was honestly about 40 hours but it was our first brake job.
So... how does it stop? Well, about %100 better than it did. This doesn't mean it stops like my Toyota truck with 4 wheel discs but at least it is no longer scary to drive.
Let me know if you have any questions.

Good Job, "Big"!

Sounds like just a couple more tweaks...I paid to have mine installed along with PST bushing & balljoint set, but that sounds like the same installation to a "T".

At least 100% better stopping. I don't worry near as much in traffic.

I'm yet to install it, but I bought a bracket from scarebird.com, (found them on ebay) which is a caliper bracket that bolts to the drum spindle, then you bold on chevy s-10 brake parts to. they may not be quit as good as the aftermarket stuff but the price is right. $85 for the braket and s-10 calipers/rotors etc are dirt cheap at the local parts store. easy to get and I found calipers for $20. I will post after install to let you guys know how it worked out. the only thing that I had to hire out was having the outer ring of the hubs turned down about a 1/16" to fit the rotors.

Dave, if I would have known you had such a mean-ass mill, I would have tried to sell you the 12" rotor version with Wilwood calipers. E-mail if you have any issues.