My switch went bad after 34 years and after seeing the prices that people were asking for a used switch, I decided to have a go and see if I could repair the switch myself.

It can be done!!

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s1.jpg
To open up the switch, carefully drill out the copper pins. I used a 5/16.
http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s2.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s5.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s6.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s3.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s4.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s7.jpg
All three contacts were very loose, they seemed to have been pressed on. Soldered all the connections and added a touch of crazy glue to make sure they don't move http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_smile.gif

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s8.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s9.jpg

Works like brand new!!!!!!
Hope this will help someone out in the future!!

My switch went bad after 34 years and after seeing the prices that people were asking for a used switch, I decided to have a go and see if I could repair the switch myself.

It can be done!!

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s1.jpg
To open up the switch, carefully drill out the copper pins. I used a 5/16.
http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s2.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s5.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s6.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s3.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s4.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s7.jpg
All three contacts were very loose, they seemed to have been pressed on. Soldered all the connections and added a touch of crazy glue to make sure they don't move http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_smile.gif

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s8.jpg

http://www.noagendasportfishing.com/s9.jpg

Works like brand new!!!!!!
Hope this will help someone out in the future!!

That is some nice work. Definitely one of the more informative things that I have seen on the board.

With those kind of skills, you should buy up every junk 68 convertible top switch you could find, and refurbish them. If you got the bezel replated and painted, you could get $100 or so for the switch.

That is some nice work mrgto. Someone just drilled a big hole in my switch and put in a toggle switch. It works, but looks very cheap (like something you would see in an issue of Car Craft). Andre is right; you should start fixing other switches on the side and make some extra cash. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_smile.gif

I never said I was a pro! http://forums.performanceyears.com/g.../icon_wink.gif

I couldn't find any place locally to send out the switch to get chromed out, I called a few places and they won't touch plastic.
So, I leave it as is, considering it still looks good, and you hardly see the switch from where it's located!

Anyhow, I was happy with the results.

Just to prove you don't need to always fork out big $$$$ with this hobby. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...on_biggrin.gif

I have an old switch out of a 68 tempest. Just like the one you just corrected. How much would you charge to say - fix another switch? I'm afraid that I'll screw it up!

Also Mr. GTO - any luck on fixing the oil pressure in your car? Did it happen to correct the loud pinging?

Christobal,
Shoot me over an e-mail.
[email protected]
It took a little over an hour to do. $25.00?


I haven't check out a new oil pump yet. I'm going to bring it over to a mechanic and have them test(?) the one in it now.

I only hope that is what the problem could be. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_smile.gif

It's a 'bump to the top' to help those who need to fix that one year only switch.

Also, thanks to mrgto for sharing this info with the rest of us.

mrgto ,I use to work at a factory that does plastic chrome plating. Im located in Sparta, WI though. They do the vacuum plating process. The business is SARTEK INC.
Eric

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Also, thanks to mrgto for sharing this info with the rest of us.

No Problem buddy!!
I've gained tons of useful knowlege from this site, thought I'd contribute back http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_smile.gif

Could anyone help me find a 68 gto convertible switch, I have been looking everywhere and can't even get one off e-bay. I have a few 68 parts if trades are needed to be included.
Thanks

Put me in line for a 68 switch. Right now my car has a toggle switch for the top. It looks crappy but works OK. Anyone have any idea of an appropriate substitue? How well will other years work, and is the harness the same?

Thanks

Hey one went on Ebay, USED, 305.00. American money, I'm gonna part mine out and RETIRE! WOW

When you search Ebay, also search for 1968 station wagon power rear window switch. Same switch if you dont mind the text on the switch. Its more fitting than a toggle. NO offense Gus! http://forums.performanceyears.com/g.../icon_wink.gif

BY the way, I gave up on the ebay crap when I found this post last year and restored my switch. Didnt go as smooth as the directions due to my poor solder skills but my top works now!

Excellent Bob68, I'm happy that My post helped you out!!!!!!!!!!

I called Bethels. He didn't have a switch, but told me if I do find one to put it on relays so there is little chance of burning up the switch. Have any of you done this? It sounds reasonable to me.

Bob, I'll take what I can find. A station wagon switch would be ok with me. Otherwise I'll move my UGLY toggle into the console and replace it with a rocker switch.

I used relays on mine. Easy to do and takes 99% of the load off of the switch. I can email you a diagram of how to do it. All you need is a few connectors and 2 relays that you can buy from Radio Shack. They are about 1 inch black plastic squares with a mounting hole built right in. I think they are 50 amp. Remember the Radio Shack motto:
You have questions, we have blank stares...

BuzzoJoe - I would like to see that diagram. Feel free to email me at [email protected] Thanks.