Does Moroso p/n;62510 solid motor mounts work for a 400 in a 68 "a" body?
Suggestions on the pros vs cons solid motor mounts in a street/strip car.

they will not work they are for sb chevy

you can buy solid mounts for first gen firebird

from Spotts performance

but the side of the pont blocks are weak so I woundn't reccomend using them
you can take the rubber mount drill straight through and use a grade 8 nut and bolt to hold the the mount in place this acts like solid mount with a little cushion

I've got them on my 2nd gen bird and I really can't tell that much difference between them and the rubber mounts. I get a little more vibration and noise but it's not terrible. I was working on removing slop in the body and drivetrain for better 60's so I went with the solid mounts.

If you do go with solid engine mounts don't use a solid trans mount.

I run a very healthy pro street firebird and am finally switching to solid motor mounts.. although.. I couldn't find a lot available for a 76 firebird chassis so I went to my local chassis builder who built me a very simple looking set for a reasonable price.
Now my question is.. if using solid frame mounts.. why not use solid trans mount???
Thanks in advance

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> Now my question is.. if using solid frame mounts.. why not use solid trans mount??? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Because there is a good chance you'll crack the trans case unless you have a very rigid chassis.

Like a 12 pt. cage with J bars,solid body mounts,welded subframe connetors,etc. etc.

Then your just better off using a front/mid/both
plate(s).

There are poly trans mounts available,or use a rubber trans mount and use a hose clamp or two to limit its "movement" some.

For a street strip car you would probably only really need one solid engine mount on the drivers side as that is the one that almost always fails due to it seperating under load.

I've been using solid motor mounts and a polyurethane transmission mount in my 65 GTO for about 5 yrs. This is my daily driver and a strip car.I haven't had any problems with them, just a little more vibration and noise.

ok thanks for the reply.. I've heard best suggestions in the past to use a poly mount for the trans mount.. my car is tubbed with a full frame and full cage.. but.. i think I will still go to a polyurethane trans mount.

thanks again!

Nasty 66's theology is what I use also. You get the cushion of the rubber the stock mount has with the benefits of a solid mount. To me it's a big money saver and maybe a block saver to boot. :clap2:

I did the Jim Hand motor mount modification seen here:

http://216.178.81.108/forums/showthr...t+modification

Simple, and best of all...FREE!

Been using them for years with out any issues.

You can get them click here

If you gotta go Solid for Street, I recommend Solid-Driver, Rubber-Passenger for the least Vibes. I use 3-rubber now, after having tried Solids, then solid-driver. :ranger: HIS

Motor Mounts for Pontiacs
 

All Pontiac GTO motor mounts for the 389 engine will work with later blocks including the 400 and 455. They are not backward compatible--you cannot put an older 389 block in a '67 or later chassis unless you use the older mounts. The newer blocks have more mounting holes but still have the two on each side for the older mounts.

For drag racing applications, the rubber mounts with a stabilizing bar from the frame to the cylinder heads on each side works great. You can make them from turnbuckles and homemade brackets that allow adjustment. I used these in my '64 GTO that ran 12.70-12.90 ET's for years.

I have never heard of a failure where the motor mount bolts to the block. Grade 8 bolts are used from the factory and must be retained.

I use the bolt through the stock, rubber mount for both sides. I have also heard of people breaking the block using strictly solid motor mounts. I also run a solid trans mount. I also run a piece of 1/4" steel bar stock from the chassis crossmember up to the lower, left most head stud (#1 cylinder) on the driver's side.

Mighty mounts might be available for you car. They are nearly solid but do absorb vibration with a thin layer of rubber.

Here's my angle on the subject. I run a stock rubber mount on the passenger side. I ground away enough rubber on the drivers side motor mount to place a 1/8" thick piece of steel the length of the mount, then I welded it in. ( Yes you can do it without burning up the remember too bad) My theory is that I have enough dampening to not rattle the car too bad, but when I get on it she moves very little. So far so good. I run a poly trans mount. Some folks run a true solid like a moroso on one side and a stock or poly on the other. I put the money elsewhere.

Butler sells the Mighty Mounts for your car for 100$.Steel to steel with rubber in betwen.Sound like the answer.

I've got a set of Indian Adventures solid mounts on my 65 with poly trans mount. Street/strip car. No issues or complaints.