For all the NoX junkies..... outside of traction (which is an issue for me) is it any easier on parts to bring the nitrous in after initial launch, say around the 60ft. mark? Also, are there any alternatives to the $400. - $500. delay boxes that are out there now? For a weekend racer on a budget that may be overkill, but I can't think of another way to do it outside of manually triggering it (which I assume would hurt having consistant times).

For all the NoX junkies..... outside of traction (which is an issue for me) is it any easier on parts to bring the nitrous in after initial launch, say around the 60ft. mark? Also, are there any alternatives to the $400. - $500. delay boxes that are out there now? For a weekend racer on a budget that may be overkill, but I can't think of another way to do it outside of manually triggering it (which I assume would hurt having consistant times).

You could use a RPM activated switch,if you have MSD.Set it at 3500-4000 and it would come on early in the run and stay on as long as the rpm didn't drop below 3500-4000.As long as you back the timing up and follow the NOS instructions(don't engage before 3000,fuel pressure,etc,etc.)it really doesn't matter when you cut it on ,it's going to be hard on parts.

Thanks Jeff, I thought of activating it by RPM, but like you I was concerned about how that would work if the RPM's dropped below the setting. As of now I'm shifting at about 6500 and to tell you the truth I never paid attention to how far the RPM's dropped between shift's. I am set up though....I think? I'm running an MSD Digital 6AL and also with not having the fuel pressure gauges in the car, I have a fuel pressure safety switch inline with the dedicated nitrous fuel line, along with a full throttle microswitch on the carb.

Nitrous is fed to the engine thru a jet and other then the pressure dropping in the bottle the flow should remain the same. As the RPM's increase the nitrous will become a smaller percentage of the total air. Nitrous puts a big load on the engine at lower RPM's but at lower RPM's the engine isn't seeing the huge forces that come with hi RPM. Follow the rules for fuel volume and octane, pull some timing, run a cooler plug and at all cost keep it out of detonation. 13 years of 125 to 175 hp on the same cast 1967 oil squirter rods. ( polished, shot peened and ARP bolts) Hell the whole time I have run the rods full floating without a bushing because I didn't want to remove the metal on the small end.

So...has NoX replaced NAWS as the new buzzword for nitrous amongst the younger crowd? http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...n_rolleyes.gif

Yes spraying after the launch is easier on parts. And especially if ya bring it in gradually. Plus it's another tuning devise.
The <span class="ev_code_RED">Schnitz</span> progressive timer is one of the best out there. I used it for years and really like the adjustments it has. I went thru 2 N.O.S. brand timer units. Cost me a round at Orlando in 2001. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...icon_frown.gif

Just put a WOT switch on the carb and wire it in.

Here's a website for Schnitz.

http://secure.mycart.net/catalogs/ca...showprevnext=1

Thanks for the info guy's. Has anybody used an RPM activated switch for the nitrous? I was just wondering about the reliability of using it as opposed to a controller.

how often do your selenoids need to be rebuilt when using a progressive controller?

I haven't rebuilt mine and have the same ones for a couple of years. I think it depends on the quality of the unit and pulsations it has. But I can see how it is harder on them with the constant pulse till they are WFO.
http://forums.performanceyears.com/g.../icon_wink.gif
With The Schnitz timer, you can change the pulse rate along with percentage of hit, time of hit and length of the hit.

if you would like some good info or test data on why NOT to use a progressive and how hard it is on your equipment call me or email me progressives are Very very bad for your motor and none of the FAST cars use them only the wana be's 219-405-7269

Made no reverance to you I made a post to the other peoplein this thread

BAD FOR YOUR MOTOR! I guess that's why all the guys that run in the worlds fastest street bikes(Prostar) run them! If you want to be easy on the bottom end of your engine and you want to control tire spin then use the schnitz box! I had the pnc-101 and is a very good product!

Bob Joysey. The past WORLD RECORD HOLDER in your class, Ray, set the record and won the championship with one. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...n_confused.gif http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...n_confused.gif

Bill Joysey, the ole man, talked me into the Schnitz as I was having issues with the NOS brand unit at the time.

I have gone constant 9.0's & 8.90's with one and no issues. http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...n_confused.gif

But I guess I.m a wanna bee. LOL.

The reson why.....The Big Dawgs don't run em is.........
One; they got a tire and suspension to handle the initial hits. Plus most Big Dawgs have multiple stages (up to 4 stages now, http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...s/icon_eek.gif ) to regulate how much hp to hit the car with initially.

If they want to call they can make up there own mind Im not going to argue with you about it because Ive learned you cant argue with stupidity

I don't know of anyone running a progressive controller, so I can't give relative advice about them. I have some customers that have run them and have stopped because of the trouble they have had with solenoids. My customers mostly run either circle track (no NOS) or outlaw 10.5 cars. The outlaw cars are limited to a specific tire size. Our cars hit it out of the hole with a 36 jet, bring a 34 in .4-.6 seconds out, and the third system is hand operated.

I have seen a true 10.5 tire take a 36 hit out of the hole with a ladder bar set-up. It is all in the suspension. The local guys are running a class that is stock suspension, 3200lbs, all steel except hood and bumpers. They are 1.18-1.23 60/ft. and run mid to low 5's in the 1/8th on a 29.5/10.5X15 M/T.

I want to be like (Ray) when I grow up!

Another factor on why some of the "Big Dawgs" don't run a timer is because the class rules they run in won't allow them. I know for a fact based on watching local nitrous Ford guy, Chris Little. Chris' Mustang has not been competitive in about 2 years now, but when it was, he was running 8.60's on a 10" BFG radial, using a single plate that I surmised was jetted for a 350-400 HP hit. He used a "poor mans timer"...a button mounted on the steering wheel. He wasn't allowed to run wheelie bars, so to keep the car from flipping over backwards on launch, he would "stutter" the solenoids with his thumb on the button.

Yes, timers are a little harder on the solenoids, that's just common sense. If the solenoid has "X amount" of times it will open and close before showing wear on the seals or just burning out altogether, "stuttering" it with a timer will accelerate the wear. Are they necessarily "bad"? No. Solenoids in essence are just a relay, with a mechanical valve attahced. Relays can be activated/deactivated quickly without issues. NASA uses their ability to transmit signals through space over long distances without having to use a huge and heavy transmitter (I'd explain how they do it Ray, but it wouldn't fit in with this discussion). The biggest issue with wear on the solenoids would be the mechanical part. I think at this level of racing that is being discussed, getting 2 seasons out of a solenoid before it needs replacing is good.