I see that I am not the only one with questions on Radiators.I ran a 69 F/B that always ran 220-225 , 4 row copper and Below Zero fluid. Will have to deal with this problem is a couple of months when I try to complete Engine bay w/worked 455.Motor ran very cool on dyno but no the road/Track is another story. Be Cool says that their radiator is better than Griffin as their side tanks are heavier and welded, this is the reason for the price difference. One person at a show said that a standard cap will not fit a Be Cool and you need their cap? Most of the people at the shows out here run Be Cool, but the people with the Griffin seem to be happy also. If any one has any more comments on the Quality of these radiators it would be good to hear from you. As far as the cost of the radiator,for what most of us put into a motor/car, the money is really not an issue or it should not be.

I see that I am not the only one with questions on Radiators.I ran a 69 F/B that always ran 220-225 , 4 row copper and Below Zero fluid. Will have to deal with this problem is a couple of months when I try to complete Engine bay w/worked 455.Motor ran very cool on dyno but no the road/Track is another story. Be Cool says that their radiator is better than Griffin as their side tanks are heavier and welded, this is the reason for the price difference. One person at a show said that a standard cap will not fit a Be Cool and you need their cap? Most of the people at the shows out here run Be Cool, but the people with the Griffin seem to be happy also. If any one has any more comments on the Quality of these radiators it would be good to hear from you. As far as the cost of the radiator,for what most of us put into a motor/car, the money is really not an issue or it should not be.

Be Cool and Griffin both work great, difference is the Griffin is an exact replacement looking radiator,I painted the sides the radiator black and I haven't had one person even realize it was a aftermarket radiator without me telling them.
Stock caps will work fine also.
I have bought 4 Griffen's and 2 Be Cool's. (yes expensive) All of the Griffens fit, the same cannot be said for the Be Cool's.

If you have a race car and are not concerned with originality then a Be Cool rad will be just fine.

I run the 4-row Harrison unit. Guess it's OK. Good field test data.

Keeping the 69Bird cool involves blocking the upper rad support with fabric. Keep the hot engine air from billowing forward into the radiator front.

Richen the idle mixture (Primary mixture when idling in gear) to keep the idle temp or Traffic light Temp down.

H.I. Stud

With my 455, I use a stock-style 4-core radiator that works extremely well.

In my GTA I have a Griffin radiator. I picked Griffin because it cost less than half of what a BeCool cost. From the way I understood things, a BeCool should go in perfectly because each is designed to fit a particular vehicle.
Griffins are sold by dimensions, and I had to do some customizing to fit in in my 3rd Gen. It fit, but it took some fiddling with things.

Sorry, but I don't really have a good idea of how well it works because my tranny went south shortly after I got the Griffin put it!

I'm not sure if it is necessary to have a BeCool radiator cap. I saw them in Summit for something like $12. Seems expensive for a radiator cap!

I bought a Summit aluminum 2 row for my 68 F/B worked 455. It dropped the temp about 20 degrees. Installation took very little modification. When I spoke to the Summit tech on the phone I asked him what the difference was between the Summit and the Griffin. He told me that they were the same. Summit just put them in their own boxes. I never ordered a Griffin so I don't have two side by side to compare.
Roy
PS....The stock radiator had a trans cooler built in. The Summit did not. I had to order a separate trans cooler. You can also get a Summit rad with a trans cooler built in but it cost approx $100 extra. It was cheaper with the external cooler.