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-   -   por 15 and fenders (https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=447448)

spedmonkey 08-13-2002 10:47 AM

after a long search i still cant find these fenders for a 71 lemans sport so im just going to find some on to weld in a piece of metal to replace the spot that rust out its under the door is this a good idea?? and when you use por 15 what else do you have to do? i know must people say sand blast the fenders but i was thinking of just grinding it down with a wire brush or disc but im not sure if this is going to work and do you have to put anything else down be for you put the por 15 on ???

spedmonkey 08-13-2002 10:47 AM

after a long search i still cant find these fenders for a 71 lemans sport so im just going to find some on to weld in a piece of metal to replace the spot that rust out its under the door is this a good idea?? and when you use por 15 what else do you have to do? i know must people say sand blast the fenders but i was thinking of just grinding it down with a wire brush or disc but im not sure if this is going to work and do you have to put anything else down be for you put the por 15 on ???

428GTO70 08-13-2002 01:24 PM

Well the problem here is por15 is not for use on body panels, its for frames and inner fender wells and trunk and interior floors and such. Im not sure what the reasoning behind this is, maybe because it dries so hard it wont be able to be smoothed like paint.
but see what otheres have to say.

good luck

A1Judge 08-13-2002 02:19 PM

Use the POR on the inside of the fenders only, that is what I did, and I have welded in new metal to fix my fenders.

Although POR makes a TIE Coat Primer, that is supposed to let other paints stick to the POR, I did not want to risk it.

Completely clean all the rust, wire brush if you have to. Blasting would be best. Treat the metal with a Phosphoric solution, POR Metal Ready or Ras-O-Nil. That will stabilize any missed rust. Then do the welding. After welding, treat panels again, let dry then POR the inside,, USE a good grade of Epoxy Primer, (PPG DP40) on the outside. Then prime and paint as usual.

For filler work, to hide the seam,,, use the filler ON TOP of the epoxy primer, then seal the filler again with epoxy primer.. Then prime and paint as normal.

Hope that helps...

Don

spedmonkey 08-13-2002 05:33 PM

i have a few more q's im going to have the wire brush it all down to metal on both sides the treat the both sides with metal ready let it dry then the treat the inside with por-15 and prime the outside and paint it is this right or did i read it wrong. what should i cover the car with cause the my garage that i have the guy im renting my house from said i can use it but its not big to put the front of my car in but i have some space to work with

thanks for all the help cant wait intil this car gets on the road since its my frist car

GDK_1968 08-14-2002 01:06 PM

DC and SpedMonkey -

I spoke with a RestoMotive Industries (makers of POR-15 products) personally and he said that the surface should be cleaned first with Marine Clean (or equivalent that removes oil, dirt, etc), treated with Metal Ready, and then coated with POR-15 itself.

The trick to remember is (as the label instructions describe) to spray Marine Clean, let it sit for a period of time (I think 15 minutes) and then spray/wash off. Metal Ready is applied but NOT allowed to dry, 15 minutes for new metal or very light rust and 30 minutes or longer for heavily rusted items. It too is sprayed/washed off and what is left behind is a zinc coating to which POR-15 is directly applied.

Hope this helps. Any question call their support line, you will find them very helpful and informitive.

jcruz 08-14-2002 07:22 PM

All,

Uh oh, I POR-15'd the top side of my hood over the weekend. Based on this thread I'm planning on stripping again and starting over -- I'd rather spend a few more hours and get it right.

A follow-up question: what's the proper way to handle the e-coat that comes on replacement panels? I talked to a shop last week, talked to the owner, and he indicated that I should leave it alone. They would prime over it. Is that correct?

Thanks,

John

A1Judge 08-14-2002 08:02 PM

GDK... Good points. Marine Clean - Metal Ready - POR... Correct.. I guess I took too much for granted when I replied. I just gave basic stuff.

As far as the EDP coating on new parts. I LIGHTLY sanded mine on the new hood and primered...

DC

spedmonkey 08-15-2002 01:05 AM

thanks guys for the help just one more q should i grind down the inside and do the same thing cause im going to replace the carpet that there and i figure since all the seats and the console is out i should treat it even if it isnt need cause just peaking under the carpet where its comeing up it looks like its is almost new but i dont know what it looks like in the middle i think i should so i dont have to do it later on. but the car should be getting on the road in a few weeks i hope some time in beging of sept so do you guys think i should do it??

sviguy 08-15-2002 02:31 PM

an ounce of prevention is still worth a pound of cure....if the seats, console and carpets are out, might as well spend the time prepping the floor and determining if any pin holes or corroded surfaces need repair....that was one area my 69 fbird resto job did not accomplish but that was because my interior is near perfect less the worn original carpet...new carpet to be installed this winter and that's when I plan to do the floor pans, but that's just me & my opinion

Lee

A1Judge 08-15-2002 04:16 PM

Do it while it is apart..

Don


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