Basically, I want to go fast for cheap.

Is anyone running squeeze on forged TRW's? (speed-pro)

I'm building a 400 to take a good size hit (200hp?) of the juice.. my Machinist told me he wasn't sure if the TRW forged pistons would stand up to the abuse of nitrous use. (he'd like me to spend more money) I've read they are capable of withstanding nitrous use.

Here's the specs on my planned combo:
'77 2 bolt main 400 .30 over
TRW forged pistons (pressed wrist pin)
Childs & Albert rings
factory rods/ crank fully prepped, balanced
ARP main studs, rod bolts, head bolts
Clevite 77 bearings
67 gto 670 heads, stock, non-ported
melling high pressure oil pump
homemade crank scraper
Summit racing 224/234 .465/.488 cam
Torker I intake
750 holley
200hp NOS plate system
Dynomax headers

what's a good head gasket to use for nitrous?

Basically, I want to go fast for cheap.

Is anyone running squeeze on forged TRW's? (speed-pro)

I'm building a 400 to take a good size hit (200hp?) of the juice.. my Machinist told me he wasn't sure if the TRW forged pistons would stand up to the abuse of nitrous use. (he'd like me to spend more money) I've read they are capable of withstanding nitrous use.

Here's the specs on my planned combo:
'77 2 bolt main 400 .30 over
TRW forged pistons (pressed wrist pin)
Childs & Albert rings
factory rods/ crank fully prepped, balanced
ARP main studs, rod bolts, head bolts
Clevite 77 bearings
67 gto 670 heads, stock, non-ported
melling high pressure oil pump
homemade crank scraper
Summit racing 224/234 .465/.488 cam
Torker I intake
750 holley
200hp NOS plate system
Dynomax headers

what's a good head gasket to use for nitrous?

Hmmm I would like to know too because I was under the impression all Aluminum Forged pistons were capable of 250 horse Nitrous kits with ease.

It's not the pistons it's the rods. They would be your weak link.

Greg

I've heard all the scares about the Poncho rods before... I'm going off an article for a 400 written by Marlan Davis, published in Car Craft several years ago. The write up claims stock Pontiac rods, fitted with arp bolts, properly prepped and balanced in conjunction with a 2 bolt main block with ARP main studs will hold up to 600hp...

I make about 600hp including the 150 shot on TRW pistons in a 400 with stock rods with ARP bolts. Never had a problem except when I recently pulled the motor and oil pan. The block has a crack at one of the main dowel holes. I think your block is "the weakest link" !

Joe,

I hope you plan on running this engine on race gas. Flattop TRWs and 670 heads will give 10.5-11:1 compression. Leave .005" deck in the block, and open the ring gaps up for NOS use. Use Felpro 1016 or the Cometic head gaskets. The parts-store head gaskets won't live. The TRWs will survive the abuse, and the stock rods MIGHT live. At this level, with NOS you'd better on top of your tuning, or you're building one hell of a grenade.

good luck

robertg

I run a 428 with 70cc 16's and stock forged pistons with stock rods and arp's with a 210 shot in my heavy weight.
I also run a second fuel pump and have had no problems.
I recommend you do what I did and that is start out with 125 jets, check your plugs every one of them very close, and if the tune looks good, go up to 180 jets and check your tune again then go up to the 200's and I'll bet you will be fine.
Rule of thumb for me is be very respectul of NOS and you will have a lot of reliable fun, but get careless and you will have a bag of broken stuff.

I have had 2 455s grenade due to rods. Neither near 600hp. Run stock rods at your own risk. After buying ARP bolts and having the big ends resized on stock rods, you could have the majority of a set of Eagle rods paid for.

I agree, There is no reason now not to run good rods. Not to long ago it was much cheaper to rebuild stock rods. Now, it is almost the same $$. I will not mess with factory rods anymore.

Iput 175 to a 400 and a 455 with the 670 head and stock rods with TRW's. What I found is that RPM is the limiting factor, dont let that thing get over 6500 in a 400 and 6000 in a 455. It will go it a few times if you have a set of rods that havent been stressed much, like grandma driven 350 2 barrel rods with good bolts. If it has been in a high rpm car that has seen abuse, chuck them and get aftermarket rods.

The TRW's are heavy, the pins are heavy and stopping them at the top of the stroke is where you break them. The 455 lost #6 that way, the bolts held but the rod cap let go. Snapped it right next to the bolts and left the piston at the top of the bore. It did that at 5500 rpm in first gear. Nice flash under the hood and silence, well except for the noise of the car rolling to the big end...lol..

I highly recomend forged rods too, I wont build anything that will see some power with stock rods anymore. If its a daily driver that wont be raced then sure, but any track time will have some good rods. Up to you its your money, parts and time.

Todd,
I sent you a PM a few weeks ago. Where have you been hiding?

Take a look at the oil-ring land on these pistons. You can easily read a newspaper through the huge-assed void. You have 4 rather small areas on either side of the wrist pin, that connect the top of the piston to the bottom. No way I'd run nitrous on those pistons.

Lee

Look at http://www.classicalpontiac.com/memb...5/images/2.JPG

i have a new piston that looks like that...

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Lee:
Look at http://www.classicalpontiac.com/memb...5/images/2.JPG </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
How SHOT of SH*T!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!