Brake swap???
 

I just finished completely rebuilding my front suspension on my 67 LeMans and I just purchased a 70 Cutlass parts car.The Cutlass has disc brakes.If I remember correctly,the brakes should fit my LeMans by just changing the spindles at the wheels.I need to know if I can use the ball joints and ect that I have.I know I'd have to change the master and porp valve.I just need a little insight on the spindles or any advise on the swap.Any help would be greatly appreciated.
THANKS,Greg :confused: :confused2

all you need is from the spindle out

Like 6704GTO said, Keep the DISC Backing plates too.
DO a search for disc brake a body or something you'll find lots of info and pics.

Get the Prop/Combo Valve from many sources, PY included for about 60.00. It replaces the distribution block down on the frame.
Most mount this up near the booster.
You'll need to make new brake lines (or buy some) for the front brakes anyhow. You can make the rear line still work if you add a new section to the end that can reach to your new Prop/combo valve.
Either buy lines or flare your own (double flares)
I bought mine from Inline Tube and wouldn't again. There are other vendors, PY included Fine Lines also. I ended up flaring my own.

If there is any reason to suspect wear on the ball joints and tierod ends you may as well change them. Then when you have the control arms off to do that you may as well do the bushings. Then you...it never ends if you don't watch it.

Shadowjack,The entire front suspension and steering was just finished.Hasn't even been out of the garage yet [sob].Ball joints,tie rod ends and sleeves,bushings,new snubbers,a arms blasted and coated,springs.....everything.I just wanted to make sure it was a spindle swap and not a complete redo.I know what you mean about the snowball effect though.Been there many times. :) Thanks for the input :D

vidguy,Is it not advisable to use the OEM porp valve from the Cutlass?The engine is already out of the Cutlass and easy to get to,putting it in my car may prove a little more difficult.Also if I use the OEM porp valve,would I still need to make new lines.....again? :D

You're getting beyond my expertise, but.. You're going to have to make new lines anyhow. Your Drum lines are simply different then disc lines. And you really should use this opportunity to replace the hard lines at least in the front.
Alos be aware that you need the little brackets that bolt to the frame near the wheels that hold the rubber lines. These are different then Drum brackets. The fittings on the ends of the rubber lines are different on Disc and Drum cars too..
There has been MUCH discussion about what proportioning or delay valves to use or not use on a disc brake car. There is a discussion going on right now in suspension Tech.
I would rather not use a 30+ yr. old valve when you can buy a spanking new one for $50-$60 dollars.

vidguy,6704gto,Shadowjack
Thank you very much for the input.I'm going forward with the project.Hopefully I can enjoy the car while I remove the parts off the Cutlass, get the stuff cleaned and gather the new parts.I hate to rip it all apart again,but I think the upgrade will be worth it.At least it should come apart alot easier this time!!
THANKS AGAIN GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This will be the best upgrade you can do.. Barring a pro-built 455 !!