Modern Sound Deadening
 

Has anyone here used any of the various products currently available to reduce interior noise and rattles? I'm thinking of items like Dynamat, B-Quiet, Second Skin, Cascade etc.

I am spending some time replacing worn items on the doors of my '92 Formula, and doing what I can to get rid of the rattles. I am wondering if the additional expense of these products is offset by their performance. In other words, how awesome were the results that you achieved?

Thanks in advance.

From what I have researched the results are very good. I am looking at getting Fatmat, it way better priced than dynamat. You pose a good question and I am very interested in seeing the responses, as to which is the best. Hope there a lot of responses.

Larry

I just installed B-quiet Extreme on the lower firewall and floor of my Trans Am a couple weeks ago and I am very pleased. It was most definately a worth while afternoon project. I used the extreme because its thin enough to easilly work with and contour to the floor and trans tunnel etc, and I put down two layers of it for best results.
It used to be that when driving at higway speeds I would have to raise my voice to converse with passengers. Now we can talk just like normal. I thought I liked listeneing to my motor, now I get to listen to my Dynomax Ultraflows which is much nicer. :-)

Hey Dar, Good to hear that worked out for yeah, I am heading down for some light cruising with Marc tomorrow......you know how we cruise lightly!!!

I purchased the B-quiet extreme and the B-quiet L-comp. they work good together. it definately made a huge difference keeping the noise out of the cabin. before I installed it, I had to yell to have a conversation- not anymore. as far as heat insulating goes, it helped alot also but not as much as I would have liked. when I`m driving for short distances, it works really well - 1/2 hour to 45 min. but anything more than that and you could feel the heat starting to come through. it still gets real hot by the tranny tunnel and right under my feet. I guess the best way to avoid that would be to put a shield between the header collectors and the floor. overall I would give it a thumbs up. hope this helps.

Don't bother with the original factory stuff being made by 'RePops', a waste of money and time.

Hey Rich. Yes Marc put the 3.90's back in so I'm sure it will be light cruising, light in the back end on the ashfault. ;-)

cb78 you bring up a good point, and another reason I installed this stuff to help cut down some of the heat coming through. I'm OK most of the time but on extremely hot days its rouph, especially with a black interior. We have not had any hot weather yet so I can't speak about that, but I do hope it helps at least somewhat. I am thinking about putting some type of insulation in the trans tunnel area, but then securing it is another issue.

I've been looking into the same thing. Fatmat.com has a sale going on now and you can get 100 sq ft for about $90 plus shipping. I figured I might be able to do two cars with that. I'm thinking of putting it down on top of some thin silver backed insulation from Home Depot. But I haven't gotten around to it yet.

Dynamat might be good, but man is it expensive.

I just purchased some Fatmat & Rattle Trap. Cost was $ 180.00 shipped. Figure I will use the Rattle Trap (its thicker than fatmat) for the floor and fatmat for the doors, roof and trunk. Should have in a week.

Larry

Some of the guys on the clubgp site use peel-n-stick from Lowe's. It's a roofing material that is similar to dynamat but cheaper.

I have used fatmat on my GTO and daily driver. Got 4 rolls for around $190 shipped, and did both vehicles with much less than two rolls. One word of caution, though, this stuff is PERMANENT. I've had to cut the floor for my TKO600 installation and the fatmat made it a very messy job. And when I finally get to install my tunnel patch (someday!), I'm sure I'm in for more of a mess. Also had driver's window come off of the track last year and the fatmat made working on it quite difficult. I now have a nice rattle in my daily driver's door when the window is down and I haven't looked into it because of the hassle of the fatmat.

I'd still recommend installing it, but if I had it to do over again, I'd probably do a little better planning in those areas that may require work.

Yeah, I have worried about that issue of getting the stuff off if ever necessary. What would you have done differently, just not installed the stuff in certain areas?

I have heard that some of these products, like the roofing stuff from Lowes, is asphalt-based, which is inferior in performance to butyl, and also smelly and can lose its adhesion in high temps.

I'll check out the fatmat site to see what their product is like...price sounds decent.

I worked at a street rod shop and the only thing they would sell was dynamat. It was designed for use on the space shuttle.

That would explain the price. Fortunately I won't be taking my Pontiacs into space.

lol

I used a product called eDead from Elemental Designs . Worked great, and was cheaper than the dynamat/B-quiet/fatmat. I heated it up slightly with a heat gun, then used the blunt end of a screwdriver to push it into all the corners and contours. (www.edesignaudio.com) I decided on this b/c it wasn't tar-stuff (no smell), and was dual-duty (heat and sound).

Sound Deadener
 

"72 Post".....Which product did you select, the 45mil eDead V1 or the 60mil eDead V1SE ?? Thanks, John

The eDead V3 paint-on stuff sounds interesting. Anybody tried it?

I went w/ the v1SE (I think). I doubled it up in a bunch of places like the tunnel, front floorpans, firewall, etc. I read some good things about the V3 paint stuff, but I also read that it will NEVER come off. I'm not sure how the heat resistance would compare to the aluminum-faced stuff.

I'm in the middle of insulating my car right now. I'm using the "Peel and Stick" stuff from Lowes first (1/8" thick) and then a layer of aluminum backed closed cell foam duct wrap (Frost King I think?)from Home Depot. It's about a 1/4" thick. The "Peel and Stick" I have has no smell. I'm not doing the roof of my car, so I'm not worried about it coming loose and falling. From what I've seen in the last week of working with it, once you put it down it's stuck. I am doing the floor and sides only, not the roof. I also can't picture heat being an issue. This is a product designed to live on a roof or as window flashing. Covering every surface completely with both products but the rear window shelf, what is totally unreachable on the firewall and whats behind the headliner I'll have just over $100 in materials.