Should I have the Axle Tubes welded
 

I'm having a posi rearened rebuilt and gear changed from a 3.08 to a 3.23, should I have the axle tubes welded to prevent it from twisting behind the new 467 motor.

I would definitely recommend it. Cost is minimal for the added protection. Just make sure that whoever does the job understands the procedure to insure that the tubes are welded "square" to the pumpkin.

I'd do it too Gary. I've broken (2) 12 bolts in the past due to this on lesser cars.

I stitch welded mine first so the tubes did not distort(and sag the punkin) from the heat. Then I welded it all up since the stitches were holding it square to the punkin.

Form74..Be glad to help with other stuff too you may be about to need..

Thanks for the replys, trying to get this rear done and installed before Norwalk next weekend or will racing for the first time in my life ever with a pegleg rear that is probably original as I've owned the car since 99 and never touched it.

I've been wanting to do mine too. Can this be done on the car lifting most of the weight off the axle and maybe using two floor jacks on the axle tubes like a jig? What kind of welding technique should be done (stick welder okay?)?

Nope.

Anybody that does this any other way other than removing the rear from the car and stripping the housing bare and using a purpose built rear axle alignment jig that locates via hubs in the journals for the differential as the centerpoint for alignment is taking their chances and the results will be a total crapshoot as to whether it stays straight or not.

Do it right or you take your chances,simple as that.

JMO/FWIW.

Any instructional info on the web anywhere? What about preheating? I am going to be looking into this very soon, prefer to do things myself but only if i can do it right.

while it's out of car, ought to put ford ends on tubes so you don't need c-clips or c-clip eliminators. most rearend companies sell them and bolt holes for brakes can be whatever you want

Form74,

It is one of the most important things you can do to your car,because it's just a matter of time before it bites you in the butt..Do it right the first time and its alot cheaper in the long RUN.........LOL..........Dave..1033/stock(RV-455)

It is very important you do it - BUT one important step i would recommend is to grind out the stock rosette welds and redue them - they are usually not very good and if they dont hold - the weld at the tube to pumkin will usually fail - do them both - it is worth it

Did mine at work. This set up worked great. Tacked everything in place the stiched it at 180 deg intervals. The L/S tube started to leak, so I kinda killed two birds with one stone.

What about preheating?

Bret,

Who sells the tools?

Most chassis companies offer these tools,the ones pictured are (first) from quarter max chassis (RJ race cars),second is the chassis engineering set,and the last one is from Chris Alston's chassiscraft in the order pictured.

Lots of other companies sell them as well,dutchman motorsports,Mark Williams,and Mittler bros. are a couple more that come to mind right away.

I'm pretty sure the quarter max kit is the same as the Mittler Bros. kit too.

And do note some sell parts in addition to the whole kits if that helps.

They're not cheap,but they give an idea what your looking to do when welding on any rear end housing.

And that is to be sure the housing end centerlines are aligned to the centerline of the differential bearings centerline and thus keep the axle flanges parallel to the center line of the pinion.

The tool cost like $500.00 on average,but often it costs a good chunk of that to pay to have a housing prepped and welded like this,so if you ever planned on doing more than one the price is easy to recoup in the long run,and this is definitely one tool that your friends should be willing to pay to borrow if they're gonna try and do their own housings.

If you have access to a machine shop the cost can be substantially reduce,the main cost then is the steel alignment bar,and those usually run $100.00-$150.00 bucks,the expensive pieces are the alignment sleaves for the diff bearings and the ones for the housing ends,those need to be precisely machined and often cost a couple hundred bucks for those pieces alone.

As for pre-heating,if it can be done,sure it's a real good idea,but when it can't be done,care with the welding process is absolutely critical,and yes the housing needs to be supported well in addition to the alignment jigs use,so this can indeed get fairly involved for a first timer,but once you have the gear I'm sure it gets easier each time you do it.

Here are a few links,some more info to digest:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ar_end_housing

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles.../photo_02.html

http://www.dutchmanms.com/8_tools.html

BTW,I dont claim to be a hands on expert on this subject,this has always been one area that I've paid others to do my work for me,but in my mind understanding the process and the goals being sought is tantamount to knowing what to look for when considering who to trust to do my work,so yes I've reserched the subject fairly intensively.

HTH.

Any special welding rod/wire needed since the case is usually nodular iron and tubes are steel?

Housing was empty, had them welded today, now I need to find somebody to put it back together in the chicago area and then put it in by next thursday morning before leaving for Norwalk.