70 GTO Ram Air Set-up Question
 

I am restoring my 70 GTO which was originally RAM AIR - I recently got it back from paint shop, have redone interior and am pondering buying the ram air components from repro places (AMES or OPG) and setting it up. The motor is not original, but is a WS code block with 48 heads and Q-Jet carb - #7040263. The previous owner told me the motor set-up came out of a 70 convertable that he pirated for my car. Obviously, it is a manual car.

I have several questions:
1)In general, what is involved in setting up (installing) the ram air and can I even do it with the motor set up I have? I noticed in the restro manuals that there is a foil set up that my block does not have. The hood is original and I even have the original flappers that are pretty much shot and will need to be replaced. And in your opinion, is it even worth it??

2)What does the code GM4 mean on the intake manifold - 400 Pontiac?

3) I have driven it around a little since I got back and I notice the car falls flat when I kick in the back two barrels - Obviously something happened while in the paint shop (for the last year). Any ideas or suggestions on how to fix- I do not want to start fixing things that are not broken- the accelerator pump looks good rubber supple and plunger moves fine, - the back two plates were stuck but I adjusted and now work fine-I was sure that was the problem but it still falls flat when I kick in the back two barrels.

Sure appreciate any help.

as you have seen it's not going to be cheap,but i'd go for it.one your car came with it and two it's just really cool when you open the hood.

as far as the foil,are you talking about the heat tube that comes from the exhast manifold to the bottom of the pan?

I agree with Warbird, do it for the visuals but be aware that "ram air" didn't ever really have anything to do with the air intake system, though that's what visually sets it apart so if you're trying to weigh performance gain against costs, spend your money somewhere else on the car. What made a motor "ram air" (as far as RA3 is concerned) was basically it's cam, exhaust manifolds and carb. RA4 was a whole different story with more radical cam, round port heads etc, in either case the hood scoops, carb tub and manual cable didn't do crap as far as performance but it sure looks good when you pop the hood!

as far as the foil,are you talking about the heat tube that comes from the exhast manifold to the bottom of the pan?

Yes - is there a foil bracket that hooks up to studs?- are they the exhaust studs?-I do not have any other studs sticking out of the block.
Thanks for the replies.

On my Judge, (which is all equipped with the proper ram air) sometimes I'll go 60mph down the highway, close my eyes for a sec, and pull the ram air cable.................nothing.

As said above, looks great with the hood open though. With all the cables and hoses, it looks like Darth Vader's Bathroom.

If your hood is equipped for the ram air, go for it.

Ah...reminds me of feeling the massive power gain when I pulled mine for the first time and was SURE I felt it! So how stupid did I look when we popped the hood and the cable was cut at the firewall and not even hooked up to anything?!? Ah the past joys of muscle cars and youthful innocence! The cable's only there to close the scoops during inclement weather. Remember that next time you're driving your car through a snow storm!

Yes - is there a foil bracket that hooks up to studs?- are they the exhaust studs?-I do not have any other studs sticking out of the block.
Thanks for the replies.[/QUOTE]


yes there is an aluminum shield that fits over the driveside exhaust manifold that has a hole right over the center 2 exhaust ports.there will be a tube that will run from there to the bottom of the pan that fits over the carb,it's to help preheat the air for cold weather start up and warm up.most companies that sell the kit have an exploded view that lets you see all the parts.

You know the heads are wrong right? Should be #12 your 48's are for a '69? The carb should be 273 and not 263 ... yes do the RA since your car had it originally ... as for the bogging down what about a loss of vacuum upon acceleration? Leaking carb?

Dan P

I always forget to close the flaps at the car wash. Or during mosquito/moth nights.

Here's a pic of the heat shroud held by the head studs. Couple of other pics of the ram air set up.......I've since changed the ram air cable to the correct 70 black one.

[QUOTE=Dan P]I am restoring my 70 GTO which was originally RAM AIR - I recently got it back from paint shop, have redone interior and am pondering buying the ram air components from repro places (AMES or OPG) and setting it up. QUOTE]

I hope you don't mind waiting for PY to get it to you. My 69 was missing the complete RA unit so I ordered mine from here at PY in July and I am still waiting for mine to come.
They first told me 3 weeks when I ordered and I have called a couple of times since I ordered and I have been told it will ship in 10 days, those 10 have come and gone, it is now November.....

ram air
 

I am in the process of converting my '70 to a Ram Air III.
Most of the parts were ordered from Ames and a few from OPGI.
All came in within 2 weeks and all orders were complete.
I originally wanted to take it to a RAIV, but found that a/c was not an option on the IV.
Since stock heads had a much lower flow rate, I swapped to Edelbrock. Big difference!
RAIV intake and exhaust matched up with a minor amount of port matching.

Ram Air Set up
 

I hope you don't mind waiting for PY to get it to you. My 69 was missing the complete RA unit so I ordered mine from here at PY in July and I am still waiting for mine to come.
They first told me 3 weeks when I ordered and I have called a couple of times since I ordered and I have been told it will ship in 10 days, those 10 have come and gone, it is now November.....
__________________

Who is "PY" - I have used AMES, Year one and OPGI- AMES cheapest but OPGI seems to have the best customer service-never a problem and they go out of there way to make it right. I should actually wait to say that - they have in the past-I am now waiting for a Steering Wheel (FORmula) they sent me a horn button for a chevy originally that I did not order. They said they are sending out another wheel that one of their line emmployees probably made a mistake.

Anyways to all of you thanks for the comments - Until now I actually did think the ram air effected performance but I could not see how it would have a big effect. When I get a spare $1500 I will order the stuff. I think the hesitation problem was timing- It was slightly off-seems to run fine now. It is November and still in the 90's in Phoenix - the Goat hates it!!!

Dan P

Ummm.......click on the HOME button at the top of this screen!

I disagree
 

I disagree some what. The notice may be small, but logic says there should be some difference. The cooler the air entering the carb., the lower the density altitude of the induction air. An engine's hp is normally rated at sea level and 60 degrees F.
Each 10 degree increase above 60 decreases engine hp by 1%. Each 1,000' above sea level reduces an engines hp by 3%.
I'm looking forward to trying mine out. If I could lower the induction air temp by 50 degrees from what the under-hood air temp is, I should make more hp.
I'll see.

I have done the same with my 70 Judge and no difference.. whatzup with that lol
and I love the look of the hardware when you open the hood ;?)