Subframe question
 

Got the floor out, starting the prep for going back in with a new full pan. I'll be going with 1/2" lower solid body mounts.
Question: Do I weld the subframe connector to the front subframe? I'll cut the floor and weld it to the rear frame and to the floor, but wasn't sure about the front. Makes pulling the subframe a lot tougher in the future but if that's how it's done...

I will be running tubes out to the front through the firewall, but those are easier to cut loose should I have to.

SFC question
 

I would think, yes you would have to weld them in, If they are weld-in type connectors. What connector are you going to run? I am installing DSE connectors after I get my full floor in.

I have some .120 x 2 x 3 tube laying around. This is a road race car I'm building.

Here's a pic of a buddys with the connectors welded in, but his is a Mustang with a welded unibody subframe. Being an F-body bolt in frame I'm not sure.

Moderator?
Should this thread be in Suspensions?

You may want to look at the DSE bars. nice fit and all ready properly bent. Strong with plenty of ground clearance. use their solid mounts too nice stuff. We used the DSE connectors on my wifes convert and no longer need the convertible x brace. You can now jack the car from any part of the frame and not have doors bind etc. Good stuff and barely noticeable from the side.
http://www.detroitspeed.com/

I talked with the guys at Global West at the PRI. He showed me their solid mounts and weld in subframe connector, I told him that's why I wasn't sure about it, it said "weld in" But it does have a pocket on the front for the front subframe to "BOLT" on, the rest of the subrame connector is welded however.
Since I'm making my own I had planned on doing just that but I was hoping to hear from someone who did it.
I'll make a pocket on the connector for the front subframe to be bolted to and it also sandwiches between it and the floor at the solid rear frame mount. That way I can remove the front subframe without having to cut it loose underneath.
At least it's a little clearer now.

The guy that installed mine USUALLY makes his own chassis and components. However he liked the DSE stuff and and asked to keep my catalog. He was impressed. Said he couldnt bend as nice as they are stamped and quite beefy. Even come with templates. HE didnt want the job initially cause he thought they might be cheesy like CE and others. When I showed him what I HAD he gave it new consideration. He is quite fussy about his chassis work cause thats his specialty.

I think you'll be time/aggravation/money ahead to use something already custom made. I think at the time I paid $200 bucks for the connectors and all the hard anodized aluminum bushings. You can jack car anywhere without twist. Remarkable for a convert without a cage or factory body brace.

I'd be careful with lowered body bushings. It can play havoc with body panel alignment, trans clearance, hood clearance ( to motor) etc etc.

I put 1/2" body bushings on my '69 firebird and haven't had any problems (fenders lined up, hood clearance is tight but reasonable with a torker 2 and 3" air filter, both the th400 and TKO600 fit w/ no problem).

I think that the original rubber bushings had squashed down to about 1/2" anyway.

lowered body will not affect panel alignment but it can cause air cleaner to hood clearance and trans clearance if you have a large trans