HELP!!! Installed Subframe Connecters, Creaks Like an Old Ship!!!
 

Bolts for front subframe are tighter now than they were before I started!
It still creaks whenever I start from a stop or apply brakes! What do I do? (Comp. Eng. Connecters)

Thanks,

David

Are they the weld in type? I mean, do they weld to the rear and bolt to the front?

Did you put in the solid body bushings?

They are the bolt in type. (front and rear)
I used the original bushings.

David

Where the body was flexing around the bushings, it's now flexing somewhere else most likely. OR it could be the connectors are transferring torque from the rear forward to the front subframe, causing your weak, worn out, original bushings to "creak". It's always best to install solid bushings between body and front subframe when installing connectors. Get ready for the car to ride like a buckboard.

Brian:

I installed a set of solid mounts in my '76 TA years ago. Besides dropping the ride height slightly, it didn't change the ride one bit at all in any negative way. It just felt tighter and more solid to me. Maybe if I installed connectors it would be different but I can't see why.

Stewart

I like polyurethane myself. I'm in the process of replacing all the original rubber mounts and bushings with the stuff. You get the stability of metal without conducting vibration and sound. Summit has some really good prices with different suppliers. As for the connectors, I hear that you should weld the rear in. You leave the front bolted in so you can remove the front sub if you need to.

It's a total misnomer that subframe connectors and solid body bushings provide a "harsh" ride. There will be more vibrations transmitted, but that is not synonymous with a harsh ride. None of today's unibody cars have bushed subframes. They are all welded, but are much better insulated to deaden vibrations.

My 76 T/A with fully welded subframe connectors, solid body bushings and G-bar braces rides and handles better than it ever did before. Also, before I welded in the connectors and installed the solid mounts, I couldn't open the doors when the car was up on a lift, as the body would flex too much to allow it. Now, they open and close perfectly when up on a lift. To me, that means the overall rigidity of the body has improved dramatically! That far outweighs any increased vibrations that I fell. In fact, the slight increase in vibrations that I can feel in the seat of my pants only leads to an increased sense of being "connected" to the car.

Weld em'..............
 

Did the same thing; installed bolt in CE connectors and quickly grew tired of the squeaks :( which are caused by the metal to metal contact of the subframe against the connectors.

Welded them and now enjoy the silence and the advantages of a full frame :D .

Les

I have my own question on the subject. Are you guys welding the front and the rear? I can see the advantages for overall rigitity. Should they be welded at ride height or in the air? What is the best method for installing them. Mine have already been done, so it doesn't matter to me, but someday I may want to redo them if there's a better way.

4 corners...........................
 

Weld the connectors on all 4 positions, @ ride heigth. I used drive on ramps for welding mine.

Les

Weld in DSE frame connectors were the best thing to happen to my wifes bird convert. Used solid body mounts and solid radiator supports bushings too. Like johnsma said no more sag, (no longer need convert body brace), can jack car from any point and no door bind etc. Ride quality is nice. The DSE bars dont affect ground clearance and are unnoticeable from side view. Where they go thru the rear floor is unnoticeable under stock carpet. http://www.detroitspeed.com/

It's pointless to not weld them.!

Probably not pointless, you are still better off than you were, but best to weld them in...

Here's another question. Are the "x-brace" connectors designed for convertibles any good? Can they be used on coupes as well? I don't know if these are the only type or brand available.

Attachment 114339

The factory x brace is for convertibles and attempts to do what the roof does on the coupe. The convert still like a noodle with it. worse without. I no longer use it in my wifes car as the DSE bars tightened the car up so well you can jack it from any point with no change in door or fender gaps. Not so when stock.