Pre lube/oiler system
 

With the investment many have in the engine, is anyone using a pre oiler/charger system that pressurizes the system prior to start up? Seems HPP talked about one a few issues ago, but it seemed very big and bulky. Anyone got any thoughts here?

IMO an Accusump (http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_units.html) is the best wet sump oil control solution... pre-oiling is a nice side benefit. I use a manual ball valve hooked up to a cable that is routed inside the car (mounted below the dash). I also use a 1" check valve from McMaster-Carr, and plumbed everything w/ -12 hose. The Accusump holds about 3qts of pressurized oil, you just close the valve before shutting off the engine and open the valve just before you start.

i use a masterlube system works great. i have had no problems with it and i have used it for about 4 years check the back section of national dragster you will find there ad.

Ford can pretty much buy any oiling system they want.

For all normally aspirated "production" type (and even one off) engines, Ford used the 3 quart Accusump parts on the dyno cells. There are times when we use the dry-sump parts but typically on single cylinder combustion engine stuff.

Tom V.

I am installing the Accusump on my 505 CI engine with the automatic valve. It also is the 3 qt size. Should have the car running in a week or so.

I use the moroso accusump, 3 qt, with the electric valve on my 505. I put a line lock style switch on the steering wheel to activate it, it works great.

I use the 3 qt Accusump as well. I have a manual valve with a cable. I pull the handle just before braking on the big end. I can make the first turn-off and not starve the oil system by braking hard. I recharge the pressure on the return road and close the valve. Ready for the next round. :0)

Fasteddy, now that is a good idea.

Tom V.

Thanks Tom. I got tired of losing bearings every August. I have a baffled pan and all but when I brake it hard-before the Accusump install, the oil pressure would drop down to 5-10 lbs. I do not have a clean neutral so I have to let the motor back down from 7000 rpms. Can tend to be hard on the bottom end and the pocketbook.

I have the 3 quart accusump with the electric valve set at 28 psi, it works get on the road course the red light never comes on. I recently took off the timing chain cover and I figured what the hell let me see how it works. So I turned it on and it was cool to see how the front main bearing starts to ooze with oil. I was surprised that since the motor has not been running for a while it did take 10 to 15 seconds to see the oil start to come out. So I would suggest if you are going to use it as a preluber which it would be a good idea you do need to give it 10 to 15 seconds to do its job.

Thanks for all the feedback. I've got a 455 build in the near future and figure to have about 6-7k in it (70% strip) and seems a preluber is good preventive maintenance. I'll check out the Accusump unit....it seems to be the one of choice. Thanks again...Garth

The soleniod valve is normally closed until you activate it with a switch, I have the button on the left side of the grant steering wheel. I push it to pre-oil before starting and on the big end when braking. When you let off the button the unit automatically recharges itself. I use to use a toggle switch on the dash, until I forgot to turn it off a couple of times leaving 3 qts of extra oil in the pan, now I have one less thing to think about when going rounds.

I installed one on a customers car last season.He has been opening the valve before cranking the engine and leaving it on the entire time the engine is running.He raises the engine up to 2000 before shutting it down and closes the valve to recharge it for the next round.I believe all of the fast pontiacs in this area are running a 3 quart accusump system.Brian

I'll be installing an 3 qt Accusump on my 366 road course engine. One thing though, I talked with Canton and Milodon at the PRI about pans, the Milodon had trap doors in it, the Canton did not. Any advantage to either?

If the trap doors are in the right locations (3 minimum) and the right openings for the trap doors and the pick-up sump, the hardware should keep the pick-up under oil at all times. If not, the accusump will cover-up the momentary pressure drops. No baffles/trap doors on a road race car is suicide.

Tom V.

The Canton Pan I bought has three trap doors and then I even added on another 2 quarts to the pan. The accusump should always be left on while the motor is running. The idea of the accusump is to provide any extra protection if the pick up ever becomes uncovered of oil. So you guys turning it on the off and then on again, just leave it on, it is not costing any horsepower. Canton sells a special solenoid that you can buy at a set psi if the pressure goes below that it opens it up, just make sure you have the check valve so the oil flows the correct direction into the oil journal. If you are using an accusump with out a check valve you are pumping the oil in the wrong direction into the oil filter.

That make the most sense to me. I am going to be using one this season, if I can arrange the space.....:rolleyes:

[QUOTE=gtoroadracer]The Canton Pan I bought has three trap doors QUOTE]

I was suprised when they showed me the Firebird pan and it did not have anything, no doors, just a well protected pick up area.
Maybe that's the difference between a GTO pan and Firebird? Or the guy at the PRI just didn't know.
The Milodon had the doors and baffles.

I originally purchased the electric solenoid valve and wired it to the ignition switch. At one very important race, my car fell off by .2 and I lost in the first round. I began to think it was an engine going away. When I checked the oil, it was way over full. When I checked the solenoid valve, it was not opening and the Accusump was discharged. Mega crank windage--3 qts too full. I then decided to go manual so this thing would not happen again.

I would think that you could rig up a Parachute type lever with the cable for the manual valve that would allow dumping the oil into the block on hard decels like fasteddy put together in most race cars pretty easily.

JMO

Tom V.