HOP STOP BARS AND/OR ADJ. UP CONTROL ARMS?
 

LOOKING FOR OPINIONS.....AGAIN! LOL!

FOR MY 72' LEMANS, 455, TH400, 4:10 12 BOLT.

I HAVE TRADED & HAVE BOTH LAKEWOOD HOP-STOP BARS & ADJUSTABLE UPPER CONTROL ARMS.

I HAVE HEARD YOU CAN INSTALL BOTH AS A SET????

HAS ANYONE TRIED THIS? I SEARCHED THE LAKEWOOD TECH FORUM & FOUND NOTHING.

I ALREADY HAVE POLY BUSHINGS IN UP & LOW REAR CONTROL ARMS, JUS WANT TO KEEP THE WHEEL HOP IN CHECK, I AM RUNNING REPR G-70 15 BIAS PLYS.

THANKS!

you can install both ,seen some cars with it, never tryed
Art Morrison and Dick Miller Racing both make kits
the adjustable arms are for setting the pinion angle and help the rear with more free movement .
the no-hop bars help instant center and forward push and lift
I have been thinking about it myself ,just pulled the rear today to install the upper adjustables
I have the lower SS bars now ,thinking of switching to no-hops

but the g-70 tires ,the no-hop bars hit the tires harder , might be tough coming out hard

I run Lakewood no-hops with BMR adjustable uppers on my 66 GTO. The uppers allow you to preload for twist, see Dick Millers book. My car is not fast but it launches very straight and even, you can see it in the Avatar. Be careful with the no-hops, mine kiss the trunk on launch, be sure you run your fuel line away from that area. Goodluck -Jim

I currently have Lakewood's on my '72 (without adj. uppers). The stock uppers had poly-bushings on the frame side. Very stiff and not alot of suspension travel (the best 60' we could ever get with this combo was in the 1.90's and that was with a DOT tire).

I have gone in another direction (more of a handling/straight-line car) and spoke with Mark at SC&C (http://www.scandc.com) as I had interest in going to the Currectrac's. He indicated that if I want to still do 'straight-line' to keep the Lakewood's and install the Currectrac's (adj. uppers). If I wanted to just go for a pure handling application (no drag racing) put back a set of rubber (or equivalent) bushings in the rear, and use the adj. uppers.

I am going to keep the Lakewood's and add the Currectrac adj. uppers (from SC&C). It will hopefully give me the best compromise between handling and straight-line.

Cheers,
Brian
'72 GTO.

I am running no hop bars but they are not the Lakewoods. I am also running adjustable upper control arms and have my pinnon angle set at 4 degrees down. My 60's run between 1.39-1.42 the wheels lift and the car goes straight. I am running 3.73's and a 10X28 MT stiff sidewall drag slick. The no hops and the adjustable uppers work nice for me.

Tim C

I tried the no hop bars on my '69 running the G70-14's. I took them off again as I was getting better 60 foot's without them. They worked great with drag radials but with the repro bias plys they hit too hard and spun. Currently getting low 1.9 60's with a G-70 14 and essentially stock rear suspension and 3.31 gears.

BTW, Are you building a car for F.A.S.T./F.S. or just going stock appearing for fun?

I run both on my car @ 3995 race weight the 60ft is 1.62-1.66 on mt drag radials. My uppers are edelbrock with the spherical bearing on frame side. My lowers are global west with the delalum bushings. The poly bushings do not let the rear move without binding. I also run a 1 inch rear hellwig sway bar. Makes driving the car effortless as this is a great handling car street or strip with this set up