Removing timing cover studs?
 

My 400 engine has two timing cover studs that are stuck in the block. When I was having the block machine work done in 2004, we decided to leave them because the shop was worried about breaking them off. The studs didn't want to budge.

Now that the engine is built and in the car, I want to try an 11 bolt water pump. The problem is the studs are for the older 8 bolt setup and are too short. Is there any way to get these out with the engine in the car?

I attached a pic of when the block was being machined. Keep in mind the engine is now in service.

blow torch and vice grips. I saw a guy at place I go to get pumps rebuilt remove a broken stud the other day using this method. This pump was over 40 years old and that stud was in there!

Did you try jam nuts ? That's how I got mine out.

Not yet. I wanted to see what you guys say about this. If I break one off bad I'm kinda fooked.

alternate torch and PB penetrating oil.


Take a couple of days to let the PB soak in.


You CAN get them out w/ combination of vise grips and jam nuts - you DON'T want to shear them off at the block. Be patient and give the PB a couple of days to work. I'd sit it on it's end to let the PB soak around the bottom of the stud...

PB Blaster is great stuff!.....also give the head of the stud a shot with a hammer.

Use wax to release the studs grip......
 

With the timing cover removed:

A. Double nut the stud that you wish to remove, and wire brush the area around where the threads enter the block.

B. Heat the juncture of the block and threaded stud to a dull red, and quickly touch a stick of parrafin to the "joint". This is best accomplished w/ a welding torch, as the block absorbs the heat, making it tuff to get the parts hot enuff.

C. The parrafin is wicked down the threads, releasing the the stud.

Les

Do a combo of all suggestions. I like wheelspins wax trick going to try it on a manifold fitting soon. Put your jam nuts on before hitting it and lock them on with some red loctite and let it set up a day. Soak it down good. Try using an impack gun rather than a rachet or wrench for less leverage for bending. Set your air pressure a little low to see what happening and how it feels before going all out

Ditto. Use heat on the block and alternate between heat and Penitrating oil. Take your time. No matter how much time you take to do it right it will be less time that doing it over or drilling out a broken bolt.

I had the same problem as i am sure wel all have. I dont know if you are dealing with the stud or a bolt but in either case I located a stainless steel bolt to replace the offending one and used lots of lube between the threds and the block and on the shank of the bolt. its the aluminum vs the steel bolt that caused the problem so if you use a carbon steel bolt again it will begin to occure again.

Dont use an Impact Gun, use hand tools and work it back and forth.

Use the PB Blaster and let it sit a few days to work in. Once you get them out and replace them, use Never Seize or Permatex Anti-Seize Lube(both are the same). You won't have that problem again if you do.

Lots of good suggestions.

I have found heat/wax or heat/PB Blaster to work well.

Also agree with the suggestion to hit head of stud with hammer as this can help loosen the threads.

I have found that an Impact Gun does work well, but requires extreme caution in use.
If you turn down the torque, reverse direction often, and frequently apply more penetrant I have found it will often work better than a wrench. The IMPACTS seem to help dislodge the rust with less torque being applied to the stud and hence less chance of breaking the stud off. It can also help because it does not apply side loading to the stud the way a wrench can if not used properly.

BUT let me repeat that the Impact Gun requires extreme caution, and if used recklessly can easily break the stud off.

I dont agree with the never siezebut thats just me.I always seen people strip threads.

Another neat trick som old geezer showed me was he got a paper towel and a bowl of water with ice init.He soaked the towel in the bowl untilit was completly soaked and chilled. while he heated up the cast ironblock he wrapped the studwith the wet cold rag. boltcam rightout.

Beeze wax works puttin the new stuff in keeps the corrosion factor down too

Never Seize doesn't strip threads. :rolleyes: It's the dummy that doesn't use a torque wrench, or doesn't know how to use one, that causes the problem.

Neverseez repeatedly applied to bolts that are frequently removed will cut into the threads. I've seen it many times on old chillers that have to have the water boxes removed every year to clean the tubes. After many years of this the threads get a little deeper and the nuts fit a little loose.