Ball joints, 1996 Mazda 626.
 

I have to replace the lower ball joints on my 626, so I ordered them from O'Reilly for 19 bucks each. But now I'm reading in the service manual here that they aren't serviceable. They have to be replaced as a unit with the control arm. I'm confused why they're avail as individuals if they can't be removed and replaced?

Anybody have knowledge?

I don't know about Mazdas, but my Cavalier's original ball joints were riveted but and the new ones came with bolts for reassembly.
If that 626 has riveted ones maybe the manual writer assumed they would need to be re-riveted and the average home mechanic is not prepared for that.
Or they may be a press fit and the writer assumes the average home mechanic is not prepared for that either.

It will probably make sense to you once you have a wheel off and get a good look at it.
I'd bet you aren't the first guy to do 626 ball joints in his driveway.

My son has a 97 626 and he went to AutoZone and picked a ball joint up for $17. He took it to an alignment shop and they installed it (one side) and aligned the front end for $138. The LCA was not replaced. I'll bet it can be done at home for the cost of parts.

Yeah, I called the Zone earlier. They said it's a press in part and I need both sides done. Sears wanted over $300 to do it all--for a beater, driver. I'll look at getting a cheap press from Northern and save a little money I guess. Might be more work than I was hoping.

Or go to Autozone and use their balljoint press for free. (have to leave a deposit)

zoinks. I didn't know they had one. Even better.

Can't remove the sway bar connector. The threaded end and nut are fused together and it has broken free inside the end link so it just spins inside the attachment point. There is not enough to grab with a Vise-grip on the other side either. It will not come loose and unless that's connector is loose, the control arm won't come down far enough to get the ball joint out of the spindle. I can't even remove the control arm without that connector removed.
Both ends just spin around--the nut will not unthread.
Now what?

Doug, I had one like that once. I ended up putting a tack weld between the bracket & arm to hold the stud from turning. After the nut was off, I whacked the weld with a hammer & chisel to crack the weld so it could be removed.

Thanks. I'll try that.